They were discontinued several years ago. ................
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Every blank and rod that comes through the door. ........
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"Pound Test" cannot be directly compared. For instance, "10 lb test" means that the line will break at or above that figure. So a line that will sustain 100 pounds before breaking can be marketed as 10 lb test. This is why one company's 10 lb test can be stronger than another's 10 lb test. The only fair way to compare lines is with a class rating, or diameter. .......
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Not well. Boron is not well suited to use in fishing rods on several counts. Nor do most boron rods contain much actual boron. In almost all cases it's going to comprise less then 20% (and that's being gracious) of the total fiber make up of the rod blank. ..............
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I think Mike Barkley had set something up showing all the heights of popular guides. Do search under his name. ............
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They'll hold up fine, but you may not find them to be as user friendly as the epoxies are. Then again, maybe you will. Just something you'll have to determine for yourself. Be careful if using them to install grips where you may need some lubricity involved - the adhesives you mention are a tad on the "sticky" side. ...............
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I would allow the line path to dictate the actual guide sizes needed. ................
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It's going to be hard to others tell you what you're going to like or not like. Color combinations are a matter of personal taste. Thread doesn't cost very much. Buy several spools and make up some test wraps and see what appeals to you. ...........
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That foam doesn't soften from heat, once cured, it's there. You'll just have to take a look at it and see what you can discover. .............
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If you are building a spinning rod, I'd use the New Concept System with double footed spinning guides for the butt through transition guides, then single foot fly guides for the choker and running guides. ..............
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It would be very difficult to mess up a properly made carbon skinned grip in a rod holder. We're talking about something that is pretty darn hard. When we mention the use of urethane foam, we're not talking about something like EVA - this stuff, at least in the 8lb and up density, is rigid. ...............
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Don't use foam - mold the carbon around aluminum or copper tubing and slide it off after forming it. You will have to coat the tube with some wax so the epoxy won't bond the skin to the tube. ..............
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Yes. They bore easily in a lathe or drill press. You could also cut them with a plug cutter. ...........
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You only need 3 guides sizes. Perhaps a size 12 stripping guide, an 8 intermediate and then all size 2 or size 1 snakes. Most likely you can use size 1 snakes, but you'll want to tape them up and try casting the rig with your current line and leader just to make sure everything passes smoothly. ................
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The RodMaker article recommended the use of 8lb foam. Even with 5lb foam, those indentations didn't simply occur naturally. And whatever caused them would also have ruined a cork grip in the same manner. When you get the rod back you should be able to look at the depressions and tell if anything crushed it as the finish will be marred in that area. ................
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That's correct, and the problem is worse with any NCP thread. You can put a drop of CP at your centers and other thread crossing points to lock things down and then apply your regular coat of CP without having this problem. .................
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I've never seen anything like them in a hardware store. Anybody that makes or distributes the nylon/graphite type seats should offer these as well. Generally they come in size 16, 17 and 18. ..................
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We aren't talking about the spine here - in fact if you use the straightest axis, the spine is not a consideration. ...........
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It's important to get them straight at the outset. The first few threads determine how straight the finished wrap is going to be. I'd bet anything, that your centers are already off by the time you've put down a couple threads. Try this - after you make your initial lay out and have put down just a few threads, use a straightedge to make sure the centers on both sides of the rod are perfectly
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With the blank in that particular orientation, the rod is in the normal fishing position. So on casting rods the guides are on top while spinning and fly rods have the guides on the bottom. ...................
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I was under the impression that he was referring to the fish pulling the line through the guides and bending the guides. I don't see how that can happen (it may indeed happen - I just can't visualize how with the guides on the underside of the rod). .................
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Something isn't adding up here - if these guides are on the bottom of the rod, the line will pull downwards, which is not going to bend the guides fore and aft. Generally, such failures only occur when single foot guides are used on used on top of the rod, and then only in situations where you have a fairly high frame guide. In that scenario the rings do tend to get bent down toward the rod blank
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Build on which axis? The way the term is used there are 360 of them on a rod blank. I think you may be referring to building on the straightest axis, which is what that particular article concerns. .........
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"On the axis" and "Straightest axis" are not exactly the same thing. If you build on the straightest axis you are indeed building on an axis, but not necessarily vice versa. These terms aren't used perfectly in rod building but generally when you hear somebody talk about "axis" in respect to fishing rods they're breaking down each point of degree of the blank's circu
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Your wrap should remain flat. When you see your thread begin to climb, you're on the guide leg and should go no further. .................
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If you were to place a guide at every 5 inch interval along your rod, you'd find that it casts okay. Your distance would likely be more than enough for what is required in many types of fishing and you'd certainly have adequate stress distribution for the rod blank. Beyond that point, additional time and effort tweaking your guides will increase your casting distance and overall rod performanc
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You mean Scott Throop and Bill Colby. ..............
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Fly rods are built just like any other rod. Guides are sized the same way - use the smallest and lightest guides that will still pass the line and any required connections. There will be a line to leader knot, loop, splice, etc. that will have to be accommodated. Make sure your size choice will handle this. You really need to find out what he's going to be fishing for. "Light/medium&quo
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The frames in that photo are having no effect on anything, other than holding the rings. If your line is hitting the frame, you have the guide in the wrong location. I realize that with the low riders and braid, you have a different scenario. ................
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We have now distributed over 49,900 of these decals. Granted, some builders have 2 or 3 each (most only got the one in Volume 11 #4), but that still puts the number of users in the tens of thousands. I hadn't planned to print any more but most likely I'll do another 10,000 and continue sending them with back issue orders. The program has been tremendously successful. ..............
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