They are not going to be as hard as ceramics. In many cases, however, you do not need that sort of hardness. I have installed a couple sets just recently and plan to do what I can to wear through them, although I doubt that with mono it will be very easy to do so. Daiwa used a similar ring in the mid to late 1980's - they were not prone to grooving with mono. Braid may be a different story,
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PermaGloss does not filter out UV light. .............
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A swivel isn't going to be good for any ceramic guide - too easy to crack a ring or tear it out. .............
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You know the reason it was removed - we discussed it by email. Your advertisement for the @#$%& site was against the rules. Such guides offer no practical advantage in today's fishing rod world. They are heavy and prone to grooving used with modern lines of almost any type. ..............
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Nothing has changed for wise rod builders - for the best performance, always use the proper sized guides. The proper sized guides are the smallest and lightest guides that will perform the required task and which will hold up over the long haul. A guide that won't pass your line or connections, or which fouls from any manner of stuff you regularly encounter, is not the proper sized guide.
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UV will pass right through PermaGloss because PermaGloss is extremely clear. So anything underneath it gets the full effect of UV exposure. The only way to block UV, would be to use an opaque finish. In this regard, the epoxies that turn very brown do the best job of protecting the thread from UV. PermaGloss will last and last and last. It's the toughest finish out there. ..............
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Best to ask Mud Hole - it's their competition. I"m sure someone there will be more than happy to help you, although they may be out until Monday. ...........
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How much improvement you'll see by tinkering and tweaking depends entirely upon how close you are to the optimum set up at the start. The worse your opening set-up is, the more improvement can be expected by continued tweaking. The better it is at the start, the less you're going to improve upon it no matter how much tweaking you do. Eventually you'll reach a point of diminishing returns where i
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Just a bit of a disclaimer - Lynn sent me a set of these to look over for my approval and I'm happy to report that they are extremely well made. But I want to mention that I have no business arrangement with BackLash Tools nor Lynn. I've made a lot of things over the years (cork clamp, etc.) that have been duplicated by others and I'm happy to offer advice when asked. But I do not have any financ
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It's not repackaged from something else, so no, you can't buy it at Home Depot or similar. There are some other products that perform a similar function, however, such as Thompson's Water Seal. .................
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What decals are you referring to? ...........
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You need to replace them. It sounds like the ceramic rings have come out and left the plastic shock ring behind. Those won't hold up, and if you just leave the frames empty they'll eat his line in short order. .............
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The higher the humidity, the quicker PermaGloss will dry. The lower the humidity, the longer it will take. .................
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I think the designers do agree on the definition of action - it's where the rod initially flexes. I've known a great many blank designers over the years and they all concur on this definition. Obviously, as you point out, the CCS AA figure gives us much greater resolution in this regard than we've ever had before. What isn't agreed on, is the marketing terms used by the advertisers. We know w
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I didn't say they were better, or worse. I only mentioned that the lighter combination would be more sensitive (feel). And sensitivity is only one aspect of overall rod performance. ........
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That's nonsense - marketing hype. The ring in a ceramic guide is extremely hard and rigid. It might act as an insulator if we were trying to pass an electric current through it, but we're not. Guides aren't "sensitive." It is simply their weight that makes the difference once on the rod. Whichever guides prove to offer the lightest combination will create the rod with the greater s
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Not sure where you're ordering your Batson blank from. There are many dealers for Baton Enterprises products and you might want to try more than one (if you haven't already). One of them may have it in stock. ...............
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Good background information always helps. You can apply CP before you tie off, if you like. But your problem is most easily solved by the proper tie-off procedure. Begin your tie-off wrap - make it very snug. Wind over the wrap end a good dozen turns or so, and then begin snipping your pattern threads. Don't cut them all at once or you'll have a lump under your tie-off wrap. Snip a few an
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The pigment from a settled jar of Testors will work but straight powder pigments like TAP are probably better. ...............
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In fact, I think what you are more likely to have heard is that the first 180 degree guide should be placed so that it is behind the point where the blank stops flexing under full load. Again, this is only as important as you want to make it. The idea is that all the major force on the blank and the guides will be done with all the guides completely under the rod this way. But it's not absolute
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You would be unlikely to ever get enough pigment in the PG to make it opaque. If you did, you'd have so much in there that you might affect the characteristics of the product. Just a few drops gives a nice tinted, translucent appearance. ...........
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Blank for blank, the rod which is overall lighter would be the more sensitive one. .............
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Using a carbon outer (or inner) sleeve greatly increases the chance of failure. ................
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If you'll apply a thin application of carefully measured and mixed epoxy over what you have now, that should take care of your problem. ............
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A graphite oversleeve is going to create much stiffer section in that area - the sleeve needs to flex with the area around it. Glass may be better. ............
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It adds enough that you can actually feel and easily measure the difference in the speed of many rods. Obviously, using larger thread and heavier applications of finish only make matters worse, but even fine diameter thread and a light finish coat makes a difference you can feel on many lighter rods. .............
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I believe Sabre was eventually bought by Pflueger and then bought by Seeker. At least their patterns and models. California Tackle was at the forefront of the fast taper tuna rod craze, although I suppose the Fenwick Tuna-Sticks and Pacific Stick Royales were the very first of that type. .............
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You know, you can make your own graphite tubing with the carbon skinning technique outlined in RodMaker. Several guys are currently making their own TN handle tubes. I make carbon tubes for use as seat inserts and blank extensions. It's very quick and easy to do and you can custom build the wall thickness and diameter you want. ................
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You can't break what isn't there. In general, seats don't need to be strong - they only need to hold the reel. But there are some differences in the criteria necessary for seats on light freshwater rods and much heavier saltwater rods. Many saltwater reels require a solid surface in order to use their reel foot clamps. I wouldn't advise running such a thing up on the blank itself. And then y
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I have used it for inlays, not for entire trim wraps. It looks great, but is somewhat difficult to do as the ends must be flattened to make it lie neatly under the thread. ...........
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