Lots of guys create expoxy ramps that turn out real nice. Another great option are aluminum winding checks. Bill and Al at Midwest Rod and Reel, one of the sponsors to the left, have them available. I also turn my own from acrylic pen blanks or wood.
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Chuck, maybe you already do this but I couldn't tell from your post. If you're already doing this maybe it'll help another builder. To help conserve my print media, whether it's the gold, silver or holo papers, I always move my image to the center of the page then print it with draft setting on standard white paper. After the draft is dry cut a piece of desired media big enough to cover the
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I guess the only problem with that is it must be applied while still on the lathe. Once it's an assembled handle, that's not an option. Here's what I'm trying to accomplish. I want to finish my wooden handles in a way that gives them a deep gloss similar to rod epoxy. I completely understand that epoxy is not a preferred option, at least one of the reasons being it doesn't penetrate wood
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Has anybody that turns their own wood handles tried finishing them using Hut Wood Finish? One of the features stated by the manufacturer is that it is formulated to give greater water repellency. I'm wondering how it would hold up over time. I turned a small sample of oak yesterday. I'm going to abuse it a little bit, ding it, get it dirty and the see if it can be polished up again. If reque
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I ran into the same problem you describe. My old HP worked great for decals and after it died I got a new HP. The depth of the black wasn't nearly as good as the old printer, even after adjusting the saturation settings. I returned it and got an Epson Artison 710 All-in-One printer. It works great and I'm very happy with it.
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Can't go wrong with Bill and Al at Midwest Rod and Reel! Very fast shipping.
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This will explain what you need to do to see the pics...
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Thanks to both of you for addressing my question so quickly. "A subjective description of ERN would make no sense. For instance, what kind of an ERN would correspond to an ultralight muskie rod or tuna rod, relative to an ultralight spinning rod? " Dr. Hanneman, although I didn't state it in my original question, your statement above makes the exact point I was concerned with whe
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I believe I've read everything there is to read, many times, concerning the Common Cents System. I feel I've got a good understanding of what it measures and use it on the rods I build. When I create the "information" label for each rod that includes model, line wt, lure wt, etc, I also include AA and ERN. Up to this point, I've built for myself, family and friends. I've decided to
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I'd like to echo Mark's original question. In my case, a few months ago my wife voluntered to be on the committee for our church's annual craft fair this November 13th. It's their 20th year so it's a well established event with around 150 booths. She mentioned that I have been creating custom rods for a few years and the other committee members said that would be a good idea for a booth, but
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I used Gudebrod #521 Purple for this Vikings rod. Also used color preserver.
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That topic was covered pretty well...
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Using the 27X method means after having placed your choker guide, divide the remaining length to the tip, in your case 18.875", into equal lengths no more than 5" and no less than 4" apart. Using your length of 18.875" means using three guides spaced 4.72" apart, between the choker guide and the tip . You can fine tune this if desired but there's no need to.
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An inset in the article detailing how to use the holo paper mentioned several types of ink that were currently(at the time of the article) incompatible with the holo, silver and gold papers. These included Epson's Claria ink which my new printer uses. The last paragraph of the inset stated: "The manufacturer says that they are currently working on a solution to the current incompatibili
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Call Andy today at Midwest Rod and Reel. He fishes for cats down on the river and I know he can set you up with a good Batson blank.
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A blank is a blank, I'd just compare the CCS numbers.
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Check out Rodmaker volume 12 #2. It has an excellent article showing how to get a perfect finish using Tru Oil. I've followed it several times and haven't been disappointed.
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The CCS system gives rod builders a means to compare rods using a set of relative measures. This system cares little whether the intended use of the rod is spinning, casting or fly fishing. AA and ERN are measured the same way.
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Start with the Common Cents Info link at the top of the sponsor list on the left of this page. You'll find articles that were originally published in past issues of Rodmaker magazine. There is also additional information in other issues of Rodmaker. If you plan on really getting into this craft I HIGHLY recommend a subscription to the magazine. You'll get lots of answers to your questions plu
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Okay, Thanks Tom. I've placed an order for that issue plus another. -Chad
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Tom, I'm working with a few blanks that don't have any information on them regarding lure weights. The only posts I could find on the forum dated back to Sept. 2004. Is this information still considered current or has a better method been developed? The blanks in question are to be built for spinning and casting. ... You can try this in conjunction with the CCS: For upper end of cast
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Swampland sells a decal kit that includes 2 sheets of white vinyl, 1 sheet of gold metallic and one sheet of silver metallic. The website still lists the holographic paper as part of that package. Even if they don't have the holo available, the gold and silver work great and look really nice. Here's a link, Good Luck
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What Bill said, a fine scotch pad is what I've used.
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First carefully scuff them and you should be set to go.
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Also do a search for Lumiseal and/or Permagloss.
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Scott, thank you for your gracious offer. I just spoke with Karen and provided my address information. I look forward to trying out this product! Thanks,
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I thought it would be okay in my basement, at least this time of year. My rod room, (man cave), is a constant 60 degrees when I'm not in there and there's not much humidity. I probably just got a bad bottle..no harm no foul...I'll just order another one.
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Tom, Im judging by your response that applying heat probably won't soften it. I opened the bottle and poked it with the non-business end of a paint brush. It was a rubbery consistency throughout the whole bottle. Well, at least it didn't cost me anything. I'll probably still order some because I'd really like to give it a try.
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I received one of the free bottles of Lumiseal that was offered a few months ago. I'm just getting around to rebuilding an existing rod of mine, guide removal, epoxy removal, etc. My plan is to also remove the old finish and re-coat the blank with Lumiseal. I have two questions: 1) Can Lumiseal be tinted with a bit of Testor's paint? 2) I noticed that when I held the bottle of Lumi
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There are many but I use Paint Shop Pro X from Corel. Photo Shop is another, although pricier, option. There are many others as well if you Google "image editing software". Good luck.
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