Duane, that's a great blank too. I just finished a pike rod for another customer last month using that blank.
Forum: rodboard

Roger, Thanks for the input but I have to disagree. Shortening a rod from either the tip or the butt will change the action of a blank. If that's what you refer to as softness and sensitivity of the tip. To what degree largely is dependent on the blank being discussed. Since the HS blanks possess what Baston terms an extra fast tip it may be more negligible, but it will be slightly slowe
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Thanks Bill. I didn't state it very clearly but he uses two1 oz sinkers and the bait is just a clump of oatmeal on a hook. The HS932 is rated for 1/2 to 2 1/2 oz. plus it possesses the extra fast tip. I've never built one of the HS blanks yet so I'm hoping its AA is 78 - 80.
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I was considering the HS932 and chopping the 9" off the butt but that would slow down the extra fast tip and lower the power. The HS932 is 7'9". After a little discussion about pros and cons he is okay with the extra length after I explained he'll get more casting distance plus that blank is about 21% lighter than the IMB846.
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I've got a build coming up and the customer wants something that will handle northern pike and carp that can be up to 20 lbs. The carp he targets are below a nearby dam and he uses 2oz+ egg sinkers to get the bait to the bottom and keep it there. I only use Batson blanks and the blank I'm considering is the IMB846. I was considering one of the hotshot blanks but 7' is as long as the custo
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Drew, I've measured both the XF904-4 and XF906-4. I thought they both had an ERN a little higher than I expected. XF904-4 had an AA of 68 and an ERN of 6. XF906-4 had an AA of 70 and an ERN of 8. That might lead me to believe that if all XF90's were similar that the XF908-4 would possess an AA around 71 or 72 and an ERN around 9 or 10.
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I measured the XSW62MX action angle as 74 and the ERN at 13. I would expect the XSW68MX would be 75 or 76 and the ERN to be 14 or 15.
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Every closed wrap I've seen has been done with the axis' being poker straight. I wanted to try a closed wrap where the 0 axis spiraled and ended on the 180 axis and the 180 axis ended on the 0 axis. This is what I came up with. Final packing was a bit of a challenge and it may have looked more dramatic if I would have also wrapped on the 90 and 270 axis'. Any one else ever tried this?
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I recently built on the XF904-4 and XF906-4 blanks. The butt section was the longest section for both of these rods and was 29". The XF904-4 had an action angle of 68 and a ERN of 6. The XF906-4 had an action angle of 70 and a ERN of 8.
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Christopher, I don't really care what your question was. You asked a question, at this point 78 people have viewed it, only Bill and Thomas provided information. If you attack people who take the time to respond you're not going to get very many people to respond.
Forum: rodboard

Christopher, You requested information regarding micro guides for a spiral wrap. Bill took the time to search the forum for you and provide a link to the results. Seems to me like "thank you" may be a better response.
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When you say "stacked" are you refering to disks cut, stacked and glued...similar to a birch birch handle? I've got some scrap tanned deer hide and I've been toying with the idea of making a grip from it. Not sure what kind of finish to use or even if it any is needed. I look forward to seeing Tom's story when it appears in Rodmaker.
Forum: rodboard

Whether you shorten a blank from the butt or the tip the action will be slower and the power will be less. You're looking at a 9' blank so I really don't believe taking an inch off will result in a noticeable difference for you. If you shortened it by 6" you would have a noticably slower rod but you might not like the accompanying loss of power. If cost is an issue for not wanting to
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Rockler has similar pen blanks in green and blue. Contact them, perhaps they can also get purple for you.
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I've been using a mixer for two years with no problems. However, I due heat the outside of each bottle with a hair dryer for 30 seconds to warm them a little. That seems to reduce the chance of any bubbles being drawn into the syringe. When I start the mixer I also heat the outside of that cup for 30 seconds. That solves the problem of the ball sticking to the inside of the cup and I use a 1/
Forum: rodboard

I would first ask what you believe is the most important aspect of a fishing rod. If your answer is price and I can't change your mind, then I would advise you to go ahead and keep buying from the big box stores. However, if your answer had anything to do with such things as sensitivity, ergonomics, custom components or anything else that you can only get from a custom built rod then we can h
Forum: rodboard

Scott, I posted these results on a recent post but I'll add them again here since they directly answer your question. I recently built on a Rainshadow XMB843. I measured the CCS AA and ERN at 5', 5'5", 6', 6'6" and the full 7'. I don't have the exact numbers in front of me but I believe the AA went from 64 or so up to 70. The ERN was perhaps 22 to 26. With this particular bl
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Maryann, For each new blank I build on, I measure the CCS action angle and ERN for the entire length of the rod. I also run the numbers at decreasing 6" increments. For example, I'll start with a 7' blank and measure the AA and ERN at 7', 6'6", 6', 5'5", and 5'. I can tell you with certainty that at each decreasing increment, the AA is slightly lower (slower tip) and the
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Wes, if it were me I'd get a hold of one of the older Harrington blanks and measure the action angle and ERN. Maybe someone here can provide a 9' blank with similar properties.
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Another option that works very well is to use 1 or 2 coats of color preserver on the wraps first. For me, that always eliminates the chance of bubbles rising from the thread.
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Just last week I ran the CCS measurements for the Batson RX8 XF906-4. The action angle was 70 and the ERN was 8. I'm expecting the ERN to come down slightly after I mount the guides but how much I don't yet know. Perhaps someone else can provide the CCS measurements for the comparable MHX or Sage blank.
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I use CP on everything I wrap...usually two coats minimum. Metallics included. It eliminates the problem of bubbles rising after applying epoxy. For me that's the best reason to use it.
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You already know the length, tip size and butt diameter. If possible, measure the action angle and ERN using the CCS and then you'll have a more complete idea of how the rod can best be used.
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Chuck, I used the 8 lb. also. Tom, the electrostatic gun must REALLY do a good job but the price is $1330...ouch. I'd have to find a way to sell around fifty grips to make that workable. I was hoping the air gun would give a result somewhere in between the mini flocker and electrostatic gun.
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Hope this isn't considered hijacking. Tom, can the adhesive be put on to thick...just short of dripping or running off the intended target? Just last evening I poured and turned a couple of two part foam blanks, same stuff used for carbon composite grips. Seems like I would brush the adhesive on, it would fill in the tiny gaps that comprise the foam and then pop back out resulting in a thick
Forum: rodboard

I've done only a few closed wraps up to this point but I have also used the scratch method since it leaves a nice crisp line. I'm curious why you had to fill in the lines with a marker. Did you scratch past the area on the blank that was covered by the wrap? I screwed up something on my most recent wrap and decided it best to cut off and restart. I changed from a single axis closed wrap to
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I just knock 'em down like Billy. Although I normally lay down two thin coats of epoxy, brushing them lengthways down the wrap. After they dry for a day I use a gray 3M pad and lightly sand lengthways and that pretty well knocks any strays down before the final coat.
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This question is directed at those that have been flocking their grips for a few years. I've been using a couple of my own rods for two years with no problems but can anyone comment on how they've held up after 5+ years of normal use or even hard usage? Any flaking or areas where perhaps the flocking has rubbed thin?
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Recently I ran the CCS measurements on a Batson XSB843 from its full length of 84" in 6" increments down to 60". The results show the action will slow down and the power will drop when you trim a blank. These results were measured as if I were trimming from the butt. At 84" I came up with an AA of 78 and an ENR of 20. At 78" I came up with an AA of 76 and an ENR of
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