I've never had any problems with mine. Contact Bill or Al at Midwest Rod & Reel and I'm sure they can set you up.
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The manufacturer does have other colors available. They are wine, cardinal, bright red, orange mineral, hunter green, navy blue, royal blue, white, brown, bisque tan, cream, rust brown, silver, charcoal gray, black, feather brown and goose gray. Perhaps Mudhole can get those if requested. Otherwise they can be ordered directly from the manufacturer.
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Just finished reading mine today as well. There are some good metal spinning demo videos to be found if you search for them on youtube.
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Here's a quote from Tom Kirkman that I just noticed on the flocking manufacturers website, . "Flocking can be used to create a soft, velvety surface on a hard item, or to create a more durable and non-slip surface on a smooth or otherwise non-durable surface." ~ Tom Kirkman RodMaker Magazine Aug '04 Tom published a very detailed description of the process in Rodmaker. Check
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Preston, I agree with all of the points Roger stated. But as an alternative to number 2, some ice fisherman don't like messing with taping the reel and prefer a workable reelseat. I solved this by using a Batson pipe style reel seat, which I modified to reduce overall weight, and then flocked it. The flocking addresses the issue with a bare hand touching cold plastic.
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One other source of forstner bits that I stumbled across is at Rockler. They have bits for coin collectors that are made for boring holes that fit the diameter of various coins. Perhaps one of those may work. Metric sizes can also work well. Penny - 19.427mm (.764'') Nickel - 21.577mm (.849'') Dime - 18.287mm (.705'') Quarter - 24.257mm (.955'') Half Dollar - 30.987mm (1.219'') Dollar
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The epoxy ramp and foregrip area on this rod were easy to complete. I simply sprayed a couple of light coats of Krylon white, let dry and followed up with a white size A wrap.
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Keep at it...glad to have helped.
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I get great results by following this technique for water slide decals.
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I'd be careful using a hot plate as the plastic epoxy bottles may melt. Builders have diferent methods that can all work. Some folks like to put a gentle flame to the epoxy after it's applied, some set the A/B bottles into a pan of warm water prior to mixing, some give them a quick zap in the mocrowave, some just put them in their shirt pocket. I use a hair dryer to warm the bottles prior
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My two cents...until spining the blank is actually proven to provide some sort of advantage, I'll continue building on the straightest axis.
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sorry, duplicate post...
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Dave, maybe I can help. What you've read will indeed get you to a good starting point for locating the position of the choker guide. However, that method depended on the upsweep of the reel. Another, easier, way has subplanted that method. All you need to do is determine the outside diameter of the reel, where the line leaves the spool, a recent reel I've measured was 41mm so I'll use that as
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When I built mine I cut a 1" wide ring off the top of a foam soda can huggie and glued it around a PVC end cap. Then it was just a matter of using a very sharp blade and adding the slits around the perimeter and numbering them.
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Thanks Mike, He's away for a few weeks but I'll pass the info on ifish.net upon his return.
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Bob, I believe the guys he talked to last year where somewhere along I-84 near a dam and they were fishing for Salmon.
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Hey all, My father wants me to build a rod, for an upcoming trip, to shore fish the Columbia River east of Portland, OR. We're in Minnesota so need help to determine the best type of rod to build for him. He wants a two piece and I chose to stick to the Batson line of blanks. If anyone knows what the guys who fish that area typically use I would sure like to know. Guess some variables I nee
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I've done one simple spiral and I used a single foot on top, no bumper guide, a single foot guide on 180 and micro's to the tip. I did have a micro tip top as well but found that tended to bend so I've replaced that with a regular tip top.
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I've read and reread he article several times and that's what got my wheels turning. I considered mixing two colors of fiber, red and white as noted above, to achieve the desired effect but that would end up just being more of a speckled look. In your experience using flocking, have you ever tried doing one color on specific areas of a grip, let that sit the necessary number of days per the
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Looking to create a rod for my 5 year old daughter and thought I'd trying flocking the grips for her. Has anyone tried flocking with a different color adhesive than the nylon fiber being used? Does the adhesive show through enough to get a varied color blend, for example a red adhesive and a white nylon fiber to produce a pinkish overall effect? I'll consider other suggestions as well to
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Yes. Not sure about 1/8" wide but size A is what I've used in the past. As an example, the walleye on this link was done with a gold (non-metallic) size A underwrap. What ever I didn't want to show through the decal was colored black.
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Great idea. I wonder how it would look printed on clear decal paper with an underwrap of metallic gold or metallic silver thread? Do any thread makers have a white thread with a metallic look, pearl perhaps. That might provide the extra vibrancy associated with the real thing.
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Been meaning to ask this for some time since I have yet to use Permagloss but when builders add pigment, like Testors, and then apply it to a blank, is the resulting finish opaque or somewhat transparent?
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I'd say you're off to a good start. Assuming you're using the number 7 tip top you may consider using smaller running guides to reduce weight. (Also assuming the smaller guides will allow knots to pass through them.)
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While I understand that the oils and polyurethanes will penetrate the wood thus sealing it from the elements, doesn't epoxy get you to the same end result...a wood handle sealed from the elements? I know some folks prefer a satin sheen on the finished handle but personally I really like the gloss that the epoxy provides without the many coats required by other methods. If I'm missing somethin
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Thanks Tom, I'm looking forward to a lot of reading this upcoming week!
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Thanks so much. That's the EXACT article I was trying to find.
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Think I found what I was looking for, Micro Set and Micro Sol. If not, please let me know. Thanks,
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I've been using decals lately but in some situations the surface is not always flat or the case of rodbuilding, not cylindrical. I recall reading about a technique that model railroaders use to apply decals to different textured surfaces and they have a way to get the decals to bend, melt or conform to whaver surface is needed. I believe they apply some type of liquid to the decal, or surface u
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Just so I understand better, Bruce mentioned in the initial post that he was doing a simple spiral. If I understand the simple spiral correctly, there is no bumper guide, just a straight transition from 0 degrees to 180 degrees. Therefore there will always be line touching the blank between those two guides, even though it generally won't affect casting performance. If I'm wrong let me know
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