Has anybody that turns their own wood handles tried finishing them using Hut Wood Finish? One of the features stated by the manufacturer is that it is formulated to give greater water repellency. I'm wondering how it would hold up over time. I turned a small sample of oak yesterday. I'm going to abuse it a little bit, ding it, get it dirty and the see if it can be polished up again. If requested I'll post the image on the photo page.

Here's the process I used to finish the turned piece:

Sand the piece down to 320 grit.

Repeat these next two steps until the grain is completely filled and the piece is smooth. This is similar to Tom's article in Vol 12 #2, "Perfect Wood Finish" except the article uses TruOil.
-----With the piece turning on the lathe apply thin coat of CA.
-----Spray CA accelerator on the piece to speed up the curing process.
-----Sand the piece back down to the wood surface.

While turning the piece on the lathe sand with Micro-Mech and progress from grits 1500 to 12000.

Lastly, turn the piece at a high speed, preferably 2500 RPM or greater. Apply the Hut Wood Finish to one end of the rotating surface and move it slowly to the other end, leaving a thin coat on the surface. Hold a paper towel tightly to the turning. It is essential that enough pressure is applied to generate heat. It is the heat which melts the HUT and gives the wood a mirror like finish.

Thanks,
Chad Huderle

Huderle Custom Rods
Prior Lake, MN

It's a wax finish and works very well on naturally oily woods which can't be topcoated with an oil or varnish.

I think for any other type wood you're going to want to finish it with something first, and then use the HUT wax to add a layer of protection. You could go with just the wax on interior surfaces, but I'm not sure it's enough for exterior use. So the CA you mention would be an integral part of the process you outline. I see no reason why it wouldn't work. There's only one way to find out - try it.

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the hut finish is designed for pen turners and similar projects. it is a good finish for those items. it is not designed for continuous outdoor use. if you are applying ca then your piece should be protected. using ca or ca/blo finish is excellent and a very durable finish. if you are looking for an alternative finish you can apply on the lathe, take a look at Petri gel poly. it is a polyurethane that has uv inhibitors and is rated for outdoor and marine use. it is very user friendly and can be applied on the lathe. you may do well with the hut, but i believe it will need to be apply it again and again over time and use as it will wear off.

Chad: Tom and JP are right on the money with thier advice. If you're making a presentation rod that will probably never get wet, go for it. It does a very nice job as a finish top coat but is not intended to my knowledge for outdoor exposure. Be sure and seal the end grain of your insert with whatever you use.

Steve

Steve Kincaid



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/01/2010 09:58AM by Steven Kincaid.

I have tried it before for a butt cap I made once, it does not hold up outdoors.

It's just a wax - you'd have to reapply it just like you do on car paint every so often.

..............

I guess the only problem with that is it must be applied while still on the lathe. Once it's an assembled handle, that's not an option.

Here's what I'm trying to accomplish. I want to finish my wooden handles in a way that gives them a deep gloss similar to rod epoxy. I completely understand that epoxy is not a preferred option, at least one of the reasons being it doesn't penetrate wood as well as other options. That's been discussed on the forum many times. Although at times I've thought, it may not penetrate the wood but once you get several even coats applied it surely must protect the wood?

I've tried other options such as Spar varnish. I personaly don't care for it. I applied some to another test handle three weeks ago and while it may finally be dry it doesn't feel hard. It's no longer tacky but it just doesn't feel like it's "done".

Earlier this summer I tried one of the urethane sprays. It was okay but not what I was looking for either.

I think I'm going to focus on bettering my skill at applying and finishing CA. With that in mind, is a person better off using thin, medium or thick CA to fill the wood grain? I used thin for the process I described earlier but haven't tried medium or thick yet.

Thanks,
Chad Huderle

Huderle Custom Rods
Prior Lake, MN

If you look for pictures from Mark Blabaum, he finishes most of his wood I think now with CA. He would be one to talk to about the process. He gets a beautiful finish with it. I think he has said before he uses the thick CA.

Chad,

Check the wood finishing techniques published over on Rodbuilders Library. A variety of methods are presented. Some quick hit techniques, some are longer processes.

Jeff

[www.rodbuildingtutorials.com]

ii make duck calls. use a ca "super glue" finish, just do it in a well ventilated area. a great tutorial is available at tho game calls. there is not a more durable, glossy finish

Eric Guarino Wrote:
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> a great tutorial is available at tho game calls. there is
> not a more durable, glossy finish

Where is the tutorial located????

Thanks

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

I downloaded it and will email it to you. Send me an email. eguarino@soearth.com.