Kevin, here's another example of what you can do to achieve the look you're after. This was done on white backed decal paper. If I were to do it again I would use clear backed decal paper with an underwrap of pearl white thread.
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My understanding is that it will be available soon through Mud Hole. I'm sure if you contact Mark he'd be happy to get one to you.
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Mark's new book was available at the recent International Custom Rod Building Exposition at High Point. I wasn't able to make it but Mark was kind enough to sell me a copy himself. I must say if you want a highly detailed explanation of every step in the process of building a themed custom rod this book is a must have. I've read through it three of four times now and each time I've picked up
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Chuck, when my HP died I picked up a new one but wasn't happy for the same reasons you describe. I brought it back but I had to raise holy heck to get the restocking fee waived! :) I got an Epson 710 and couldn't be happier with the results. The blacks aren't purple and it covers the gold, silver and holo papers just fine.
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Matt, you're going to hear different opinions regarding guide placement but since you asked specifically about the NGC method I'll try and fill in the blanks for you. The initial part of the process has been updated since the article you read in the library. I don't have the exact spinning reel you mentioned in your post so I'll use 50mm based upon what you chose as your stripper guide. Mult
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Discovered this little tool at Rockler yesterday while searching for a Wolverine system for my lathe tools. Already sharpened every knife in the drawer for my Mrs. and did the guides for my current build last night. It makes quick work of guide preperation. To hold guides that are size 6 and smaller I use threaded Dremel shaft with the disc removed.
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I've got a customer who wants a trolling rod built as a gift for her father. I'm confirming as to whether it's a baitcaster or a spinning rod but I believe it's going to be a baitcaster. The target fish is pretty much everything that swims in our central Minnesota lakes. Here's the kicker...he prefers to hold the rod when he's also driving the boat so it must be the same length as his current
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In a nutshell, your second choice, relative, is the correct answer. Nothing is fast or slow...only faster, slower or equal.
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I asked Billy the same question before trying this wrap. It's the Circle wrap from his book. It'd look pretty sweet done as basketballs with the Laker colors wrapped around it. It'd also be easy to do the basketball seams, just clear back decals...one for each seam.
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I do it a little different than Ron but get very good results. I spin the rod at 120 rpm or so, and load up the brush with epoxy. I get the entire wrap covered and then stop the lathe. I remove the belt so I can turn the lathe free handed. Then I brush left to right the entire length of the wrap, turn the lathe slightly so there is some overlap and brush again. Depending on the diameter
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I don't have a mixer but instead just open the jaws of one of my drying motors. The 3 oz. plastic cups I use fit perfectly into the jaws. I just tilt the motor back against the wall and it makes a great epoxy mixer. I always warm the resin and hardener before adding them to the cup along with a 1/2" ball bearing. Once it starts turning I hold a hair dryer to the bottom outside of the c
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"... My next project is my version of the Wonder Weaver using plumbing parts and heavy foam." I made one of these last year. I took one of those foam "huggies" that are used for soda cans and cut two 1" sections from the top. After I slid them each onto a PVC end cap I added 90 or so slits around the circumference and numbered them to match. It works pretty well and
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I can assure you no distance is lost using the simple spiral. I built my topwater rod using that method. One caveat, I would add a single bumper guide if using braid just to protect the rod's finish. I use mono for this rod so it's not an issue for me.
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Here you go David... You may want to double check with Tom K. but I'm 99% certain that "Perfect Wood Finish" in Vol. 12 #2 is the article you're looking for.
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David, Tom K. wrote an article in Rodmaker Vol.12 #2 showing a process using Tru Oil that works very well.
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Is that experience I hear talking? :)
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I normally trim mine as well. This is especially true when using larger reel seats such as size 18 and up. Those sizes feel much better in ones hand but can leave an inch or more of of unneeded threads on a typical fresh water spinning reel.
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Chuck, that tool would really fit the bill for what I'd like to do. Thanks for letting me know about it!
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Thanks for the quick reply Tom. My main reason for doing these measurements is to recommend a blank for a customer who brings me one of their existing rods and wants something faster/slower or heavier/lighter than what they bring in. I suppose averaging the numbers may help me get closest to what they're looking for...then I can adjust from there.
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A month ago I did a build and got a DBI of 16/77 and a URRS of 16/8/35 for a particular blank. Today I'm starting a new build on a new blank of the same model but got a DBI of 19/76 and a URRS of 19/9/47. I used the same process but the resulting measurements are somewhat different. I've measured a bunch of blanks but this is the first time I've measured different blanks of the same model.
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I haven't built one of these yet but I've been doing my research. When I turn wooden grips I leave a 3/4" diameter recess in the end of the butt grip...perhaps two to three times the depth of a penny. I use 3/4" because that is the exact diameter of a penny. I can then use a penny as an inlay or glue some type of graphic onto the penny. If I want to continue to use a penny and t
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Tom, since you've seen the new thread finish that is going to be at the expo, do you think it would also work as another option for finish on wood grips?
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Sorry Tom but I"ve experienced nothing but good results with the Krylon Crystal Clear Gloss for the past two years. I'm very careful not to touch the surface of the decal once I begin the process of placing it on the rod so perhaps that has something to do with it.
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Dan, Contact me at huderle@hotmail.com.
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um...
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"It is something that I enjoy and love to do, so I would no more consider the time spent as an expense as I would include the time spent drinking a beer into the cost of the beer or I'd never be able to afford beer! LOL!!" Mike, You could take it a couple steps further as I have done. I've been building my own rods for over 3 years, brewing my own beer for less than 1 year and th
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I don't use a hand wrapper and I don't have a power wrapper. I remove the belt from my drying motor and mount the rod between the motor and one of the stands. This gives me lots of room to work. I do all my butt wraps and guide wraps using a hand held bobbin which provides just the right amount of spool tension. Then I remount the belt, apply the epoxy and let it dry. I have a limited wo
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I've added pigment to Lumiseal which is similar to PG. It's not going to provide you with an opaque finish but rather a very translucent finish. In essence you'll be tinting the rod not painting it. Hope this helps.
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I bought Billy's book earlier this fall and prior to that had NEVER attempted ay wraps, closed or open. I've since done two wraps, an American flag and a fish. I think they both turned out great. Once you get your mind around the concepts it presents, it's pretty straight forward. I would definitely buy it again.
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Hopefully you can get some of Swampland's clear backed waterslide decal sheets. That's what I used for this image... ... I wrapped with gold thread first then printed the decal entirely in black, minus the lettering which is printed as the color white so it appears clear on clear backed media. That allows the underlying thread to show through. You won't need to mess with clamping or pre
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