I agree with throwing out the rubber winding checks. I like to ramp up some thread and apply a couple of coats of finish over that. It just looks more appealing to me.
Forum: rodboard

Ed, I have two Magnuflex 10 ft. rods that I had recently reworked. I fished one last weekend from the beach and I was pleasantly suprised at how far it casted an 8 oz. weight and a chunk of Bunker. I set mine up for conventional reels (Daiwa Grandwave 30) using 20 lb. test and a 50 lb. shock leader. I don't know exactly what the rod will throw, but by the feel of it 12 or even 14 oz's would no
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Four trips!!! That might be a record. Mine start to yellow after two trips. lol. Just one of the drawbacks. I still continue to use the stuff though. As long as it all yellows at the same rate it'll look O.K. You're about to hear some comments about Thread Master.
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Heavy gage Piano wire? I also seem to remember someone mentioning the wire that is inside a lawn mower throtle cable.
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Your only option at this point might be to wrap the rest of the painted areas with metallic thread. As it is a boat rod I don't think it would make much difference. At least the blue will be all the same color.
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i can't wait until someone comes out with a "4D wrap". Really good articles.
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Thanks for the replies. I'm going to order both grips and see which one I like best. The only reason I was going to use the Agate guides was I have a bunch of them in the right sizes for this rod. I bought some rod building stuff a little while ago from someone that was getting out of the buisness, and the guides were part of the deal. I now think I'll build it with the more conventional &qu
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Not only am I waaaay out this league, I think some of these guys are from another planet! Really nice work!
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I fished next to a guy on the beach last year that had no reel seat whatsoever. The butt was wrapped in cork tape on one rod, and his other rod had black heat shrink over cork tape. He used only the reel clamp (conventional reel) to hold the reel in place, and when I asked him why he had it built that way, he said he liked to be able to move the reel up and down the blank to find the sweet spot
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Larry, It feels heavier than aluminum, and looks to be a nickel plating. It's several years old and I was told it was a Pac Bay. I looked through all of my books again last night, and I don't know where I came up with a Reverse half well grip......they all state that for salt water fly rods you should have a full well foregrip. I'm now re-thinking the guide type. Any thoughts on the REC Nickel
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Thanks Spencer, That makes sense. Something else to buy. lol. What about stripper size? Anybody?
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Tom, I was kind of thinking the same thing about the guides. What benefit does the full well have over the reverse half well? If hand size plays into this, I have rather large hands. Is the stripper a toss-up between 16 and 20?
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I'm getting ready to build my first fly rod and have a couple of questions for the fly rod Guru's. It's a 9', 4 pc, 14 Wt. Sevier blank. I intend on using it for Bluefish/Spanish Mackerel from the surf. I already have the reel seat (Nickel), Flor grade reverse half well foregrip, six inch detachable fighting butt, and plan on installing a 4" fighting grip above the foregrip. My question
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If you're not trying to save the butt cap I think I would consider carefully cutting it off.
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Terry, I'm getting ready to build my first fly rod, and have been testing some dyes on scrap pieces of cork. I picked up some Ritz dye at the grocery store and did some test samples. I am very happy with the results.......now I just need to settle on a color. I think you can also use food coloring, but the Ritz is cheap, and you get enough in one bottle to stain everything in the house. lol.
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Chris is right on the money here. I've rebuilt almost everything I own, and a bunch for friends....I never end up with the same placement, size, or number of guides. Testing is the key until you figure out the basic setups. Rebuilding old rods is alot of work, but the end product should be something that's head and shoulders above what you started with. Good luck.
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I had recently coated some lead casting lures and figured "what the heck". Besides, I liked the pearl white powder coat.
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I've powder coated the GH pins.....trick is to not put them into the oven, after coating the pins I heat the coating with a propane torch until it "just melts". Mine came out pretty nice. I was using the powder coating for lures that Netcraft sells. I did melt one Bad to the Bone pin that I preheated a bit too much though.
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After you paint it put 6 or eight spools of yellow in a plastic box (the type with compartments) drill about a 1/8 inch hole in the side (to run the thread out of) and pull all of the threads in a band at one time. Tape them off, load the box with the green thread and do the same thing right next to the yellow....... little bit of finish and you're done. Now that wasn't so hard was it? Good luc
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Billy, Don't "do" the wrap! "Be" the wrap! Seriously, you need to do an acid wrap......NO PATTERN! Just wrap.
Forum: rodboard

You can polish them out.......but wait until the rod is finished. You don't want polish or wax repelling your finish. You can try cleaning the o-rings on your wheels. Dirt on them will marr the blank, but masking tape is really the way to go.
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I think "tighter" may not be a good choice of words for wrapping. Snug might be a better description. If you can't move the guide with moderate pressure after wrapping, the wrap is too tight.
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I quit "spining" rods last year......now I build along the "offset radial axis". Sorry, I couldn't help myself.
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I fill mine with a dab of PC7.
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Paolo. Your problem is the mixing cups themselves! If I mix in the Flex Coat cups, the stpriping occurs. This is because the cups have little protrusions inside that limit you from fully mixing the epoxy. I now measure in the cups, but do my mixing in a bigger "smooth sided" cup. If you see the striping while the mix is on foil, you can usually pass your brush through the mix to complet
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You'll need one extra bed section and two more uprights.
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I used some blue ones from Pac Bay that were not intended for salt water use, and they turned black after a few trips to the beach.......totally my fault because I missed the "freshwater use" suggestion. If I really wanted to use the colored guides in saltwater again,I'd carefully coat the frames with Perma Gloss and see how that works.
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I just wrap up to it, but when I apply the finish I go part way onto the tip top.
Forum: rodboard

My personal opinion is that Rod Armor is far superior to the others mentioned. It looks thicker, and holds up better in the beach enviornment that I use it in.......the only downside is it's a bit more expensive. In this case I feel that you get what you pay for. I've also read some complaints about these products not shrinking to the advertised diameter (usually 50%). The Rod Armor will easily
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Yeah, that would be some count!!!
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