Why not just double wrap it (two layers). Anytime I'm using a light thread on a black blank I do this and it really holds the color of thread with no need for paint or CP.
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O.K. , I'm going to tell you a fix.....It's not for the squeamish. If the blank is hollow cut it right in front of the reel seat, install a solid fiberglass insert going at least 5 to six inches above and below the cut. Epoxy this in place with the correct alignment this time, and it will actually be stronger than the hollow blank at that point. If the blank is solid glass someone else will have
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John, it may be too late to do this because if you're asking, you may not have calculated the butt wrap to end where the stripper guide starts. This is a pretty popular wrap around here on the short trolling rods where the stripper guide is close to the foregrip. You have to plan ahead of time to locate the forward tie-off of the butt wrap to end-up where the forward foot of the stripper guide g
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You can do it either way.
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Shawn, You may want to re-think the shv50 on the 14'er. That's a monster reel to try and cast from the beach. The 30 is a great size for beach casting, the 40 is a bit of work to cast, and I wouldn't even try the 50 from the beach. It really is more of a boat reel. Good luck in your build.
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Way to go Chris!!! Now I have something else to build. lol. All kidding aside, that's a very good explanation.
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When I have to install a foregrip over a decorative wrap I just continue the "tie-off" wrap right up to the reel seat then back to the wrap, then back to the reel seat, building up that part of the blank with thread until I match the taper of the blank. A couple coats of finish, let it setup good, scuff the area where the grip will be applied, and epoxy it.
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Thanks for the response Tom. After reading this post several times, it seems (to me at least) that if you don't get the concept setup exactly right that you will actually lose some distance. I agree with the weight reduction, etc. but we're talking about a 13' heaver. With the cone of flight system wouldn't you use less guides, wraps, and epoxy, therefore balancing out the weight required by the
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O.K. So now I'm curious! How much distance will this gain you?
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David, If he wants a uni-butt you just trim the blank (off the butt end) to get the 5 and a half foot length. If you use a slick butt or tuff butt you install the blank thru the handle to get the 5 and a half foot length.
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Jeff, I've used the Rod Armor quite a bit in the last three years, and while I'm no expert, I'll give you a few ideas on what I've learned. I prefer to use it over something like cork tape or turned down EVA rather than right on the blank. It will slip some unless you epoxy it on the bare blank. That's too messy for my tastes so I usually go with cork tape under. When shrinking i
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Michael, I built one for a friend in Maine last year. They fight the fish from the holder, 130 lb rod. bent butt, Aftco super bigfoot rollers, aftco swivel tip. They lock the rod into the holder and fight the fish with the boat. lol. I understand they can be hard on equipment, the boat, and you. Good luck! Here's a pic.
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So I'm working on a ship the other day, and when I walked into the Gun Room there's a young Seaman Gunners Mate with Sheets of sand paper strewn all over the deck, a three hole punch, and a three-ring binder.........I just had to ask.........."Young man, what in the heck are you doing?" He promptly explained how he likes everything organized, and he was sorting the sand paper by grit s
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Looks like dirt or dust to me.
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Here's a pic of what I do to check the alignment. same thing Tom just replied.
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I'd rather shape the EVA to taper to the seat than trim the seat itself. I usually do this once everything is set-up. Just tape the rear portion of the seat so you don't scratch it while shaping the EVA.
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Why not use the Garnet with a couple of single trim bands to give it that "Stealth" look.
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I wait at least four to five days.
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You may not have screwed-up at all. You might have just short-changed yourself on the length of the shock line. I used to tie my shock leader so that I had about two wraps on the reel when in the casting position. I could sometimes feel the shock not passing through the first two guides when I cast the rod under a good load. Without changing anything except the number of turns of shock leader on
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Scott's right, Slide the EVA to the point where the butt cap will mate-up. The last one I did called for a last minute change in butt caps (EVA to rubber) that caused me to have to cut the already installed EVA. My minds shot trying to do a buttwrap with some slippery NCP thread. I pack, it moves, I touch it , it moves, I look at it wrong, it moves. I'm ready to cut the whole thing off and sta
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Jeff, I like to cut the EVA above where that type of butt cap goes (leaving the blank exposed) and build up the blank with mesh tape, masking tape, or a hard bushing if the diameters are more than 1/4" difference. Just before I install the butt cap (Ido this as the last step) I turn down the EVA to match the diameter of the butt cap. I don't like the EVA under the cap because I've seen the
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Thanks for reposting, I thought I missed the deadline......should have mine ready in about a week.
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No need to mess around with the polarity......just flip the motor over "end for end" so the pully is on the other side and remount it.....problem solved!
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Instead of using a heavier thread why not just doublewrap with the size A. Do a test wrap on a scrap piece of black blank with a single wrap next to a double wrap, apply CP to both and you'll be amazed at the difference in the color. When I'm using a light color on a dark blank I double wrap to maintain most of the color. It will still darken some, but not near as much as the single wrap. You
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You could consider rewrapping all the guides. Definite color match that way.
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Your welcome Tim. I hope it works as well for you as it did for me. Instead of spending $200.00 for replacement lenses, it cost about $4.00 worth of finish.
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Different refraction??? I had no refraction! The lenses were so faded they were almost white. Now they're clear again. Guess I'll keep my Permagloss suggestions to myself in the future.
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While washing my 1999 Suburban the other day I noticed how much the headlight and turn signal lenses had faded, and were starting to yellow. This has bothered me for awhile, but had really gotten bad in the last few months. The lenses are some sort of acrylic or plastic composite and really looked like crap..........so out came the gray scotchbrite pad, and after a little rubbing and a good wip
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Dan, I have a couple of store bought surf rods with number 12 tips and haven't had any problems using 20# line/50# shocker. Having said that, I never go smaller than a 16 on the guides or tip when I build my own. I guess I just like the extra clearance.
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Nothing wrong with using the ribbon thread for trim bands......looks cool too.
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