New Gudebrod electra-metallic holographic thread.
Forum: rodboard

New Gudebrod electra-metallic holographic thread.
Forum: rodboard

I think custom is simply this........ "made to fit the needs or requirements of a particular person". Even if you just wrap the guides in a certain color for a customer it's custom.
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I use index cards for all of my guide wrap measurements. I simply make a center mark on all of the four sides of the card that indicates the middle of that guide then place the guide on the edge of the card and make another set of marks indicating the under wrap length, trim wrap length, etc. I write the guide type and size under my marks along with any other info such as guide spacing for that
Forum: rodboard

Geoff, You are going to think I'm crazy, but if they are Fiberglass blanks and you have a power wrapper I would wrap the whole blank (minus the seat/grip area) with thread. I have done this at least a dozen times on old and new blanks with outstanding results. After wrapping with thread of course you also have to apply finish to the thread but it's not a big deal. Again I only do this on fi
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Walter, Having fished Hatteras since the early 80's I can tell you that the current standard setup is graphite, mostly two-piece,12 to 13 feet long. You can spend as little as 150 dollars on a blank, or as much as 400 dollars depending on the maker. I would not get a blank with a top rating below 10 oz. because you have to account for the 8 oz. sinker plus the chunk of bait or fish head you'
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Here is what I would recommend. Take your time and you'll be fine.
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It sounds to me like something happened in the reaming process. If you were gripping the cork too tightly in the middle while reaming, it may have reamed too much cork in that spot, or the hole is off center.
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I don't think you're going to get much distance using 20 to 30lb mono. For lures in that weight range using 10 to 15lb test will increase your distance by at least 50%. I use 10 1/2 to 11 ft. spinners for casting metal and never use over 12lb test mono. If you want the extra pound test I would consider braid. Good luck with your build.
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If you eliminate all of the steps except for "apply the first coat with just enough epoxy to cover the threads" the result will be the same.
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3M auto pinstripe tape works the best for this. when you cut it after making a turn or two, make sure the cut is on the opposite side of where the rod is held when fishing (less noticeable). The white and black bands in the middle of this wrap are tape.
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Doesn't seem that complicated to me. Wrap over it or paint it.
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Yes it is..........but he'll be in Billy's booth helping with EVA inlays.
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C-Thru golf grips......Google it. Nice and soft.
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Funny you should mention this. Just last night my wife handed me a copy of the magazine that she had picked up at the grocery store, and about halfway through it I saw the article. Very well written......I have to check out his shop one of these days. I hear it's very impressive.
Forum: rodboard

I think your problem might be the 20lb mono. That's pretty heavy stuff for that size reel. I'd drop down to 15lb mono, or consider braid. I think this might solve your problem.
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Billy's right, check and see what they are using before you build. I built a Bluefin rod for a friend of mine in Maine last year, and it was a 130 lb blank, Aftco Super heavy duty bigfoots, swivel tip, and a bent butt. The reel is a Penn 130 and they don't take the rod out of the holder when fighting the fish. The last thing you want to do is hook-up with a 600 to 800 lb monster and be way und
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Just Google "Dru custom rods" and you'll get some info on him, and an e-mail address.
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Ron, I've done a few embroidered patches. I coat them with two coats of CP, turn down the foregrip a little and install the patch there, then build it back up with epoxy finish. I really like the way they look but some others prefer weaves. To each his own I guess, here's a pic.
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Over EVA you shouldn't need anything except at the very ends just to keep it from creeping. Once I have it installed and shrunk , I roll the ends up and apply a bit of epoxy, roll back in place and apply some more heat. Let that setup and your done.
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As far as I'm concerned tape arbors don't hold anything to anything. I use masking tape, but only to snugly fit and center the reel seat to the blank. The void between the arbors, stuffed with Rod Bond are what I feel secure the reel seat to the blank. I usually leave at least a 1" gap between all of my tape arbors, then pack the voids with Rod Bond as I install the reel seat. Once the epo
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To me durability means how long something lasts with repeated normal use. Your description makes me think it should say "abuse proof".lol. I Don't know how to build one of those.
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I wrap my tie-offs "tight".....and with at least 20 to 30 wraps before I trim anything. It sounds like your tension was just too lose.
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It's 3M safety walk tape. Comes in rolls of 1"x60'.
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I use 16's on all of my big surf stuff. Do I need something that big? Probably not, but it gives me piece of mind.
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Just saw on another board that Amazon is taking pre-orders for a reprint of Dale P. Clemens book. That figures since I paid about three times the price for mine.lol.
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Just curious, but why did you use CP over the metallic thread? I'm not a big fan of CP, and never use it on metallics.
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If you want something really thin that still protects the threads you could go with a few coats of permagloss instead.
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Cut them off (lenghtwise), scrape off the epoxy, lightly sand blank and reapply whatever you desire. No real trick to it....just be careful you don't cut yourself.
Forum: rodboard

Brad, If you want to go a step further you can record some critical data on a small sheet of paper and insert it into the butt end of the rod before you apply the butt cap. I usually write down the rod specs, guide type, thread colors, and date of build. I roll up the paper, tie a small piece of cord around it, and leave a small tag end just under the butt cap. If I ever get the rod back for re
Forum: rodboard