I am in the process of building a 7' spinning rod for a friend . I used an NPS 18 seat in down locking position. I used EVA handle material. I had a terrible time getting the shape of the rear upper grip to suit me. I got it all glued up and it looks great. My question is , has anyone trimmed the un-threaded end of the pipe on one of these seats to make it a little bigger in diameter ? That end of the seat has quite a fast taper . I wanted it to flow into the upper rear grip, in other words , not have such an abrupt hump. I didn't trim it back but was wondering if any one had trimmed one.

I'd rather shape the EVA to taper to the seat than trim the seat itself. I usually do this once everything is set-up. Just tape the rear portion of the seat so you don't scratch it while shaping the EVA.

Any more threads than are needed to back the hood up in order to mount the reel are just wasted threads and added weight. I always cut off any extra threads. Just make sure you leave enough to mount the reel

Not only do I cut the threads, I also cut the front of the seat where there is a lot of excess material. This was a play around grip, but since I have cut them straight as opposed to teh 45 degree angle in this pic.

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I leave enough room for the reel to seet and cut the rest as long as the guy gives me the reel. I have even gone so far as to go to the local bass pro shop when the guy tells me the reel he is using and measure the reel foot. (Good excuse to go buy toys for me!) Used to tell the wife i was working when i went. Guess thats why I'm in the middle of a divorce LOL. Oh well more time to fish.!

I see no reason why you couldn't trim a little off the tapered end of the seat, as long as it didn't interfere with the recess for the reel foot. Then again, I see no real reason why you should, unless you need more EVA for the heel of the hand to sit on. You could also flock the seat and have just a little EVA "button" behind it, as the length of the seat is enough to form the upper rear grip in the split grip configuration. A metal winding check would be enough to cap off the seat itself.

Also, no foregrip, with trimmed seat threads looks very nice and neat, with either an EVA button in front, or a metal winding check.

Jay - I have cut them on both ends and never had a problem. The hardest part of cutting the taper portion is getting a square cut. On the threaded end you have the ferrel nut to check square, but on the front (taper) you have to use trial and error to get a proper fit.

Guys, I think he's talking about trimming the portion of the seat that does NOT have the locking threads/nut on it. Billy aluded to what he has done with his NPS seats. I have not tried it yet, but plan to possibly. I like take the cork/eva down the match the back of the seat, then tapering it back out to about 1" for that rear portion if I'm building it as a split grip - I usually use about a 2-2.5" rear portion - that taper seems to fit the hand well and is comfortable.

Thanks guys , you have given me some ideas. I always trim the threaded end of any seat , just enough to mount the reel. Rich, I was talking about trimming the non- threaded end because it it tapers down quite small. I was considering trimming one down sort of like Billy V did except a square cut. I think it would be more comfortable and fit the heel of the hand better if it were a might larger in diameter where it meets the upper rear grip (on a split grip ). I made a 3" rear grip and a 2 1/2 " upper rear grip and got 10 1/2 inches to center of seat , or reel stem. It appears to balance well without the Alconites wrapped on yet. I think I'll do like Billy V and play around with a couple of them.