I have made a mistake on my rod, reel seat and guides don't line up, my fault, the reel seat is $100 plus dollars and the guide set is $200, plus dollars(roller guides), the blank is about $100.
The rod is an eight foot roller rod with a Daiwa 900H,
[www.rodbuilding.org]

I don't want to cut any thing but if I have to I will cut everything off the blank and start over.
The guides are under and over wrapped in "D" thread finished in silver metal flake.
[www.rodbuilding.org]

I have used Rod Bond on the real seat, what would be the best way to move the the reel seat.
Is there some way to heat the Rod Bond to twist or move the reel seat a 1/4 of an inch to get them to line up?
Any or all idea's would really help.
I have more photo's of the rod on the photo board.

O.K. , I'm going to tell you a fix.....It's not for the squeamish. If the blank is hollow cut it right in front of the reel seat, install a solid fiberglass insert going at least 5 to six inches above and below the cut. Epoxy this in place with the correct alignment this time, and it will actually be stronger than the hollow blank at that point. If the blank is solid glass someone else will have to suggest a fix. It really isn't that hard to do, and best of all you don't have to redo anything else on the rod.

Thanks Bruce I thought of that, two things, #1 the blank is almost 1" at that point, #2 I don't have any sold glass that big.

Tim,
With that much money invested don't you think the job should be done right in the first place?
Why risk a ruined blank or exspensive seat when the best thing to do is re-wrap the guides?

Just my opinion, see the quote below my sig.

Raymond Adams
Eventually, all things merge, and a river runs through it..

I'd re-wrap the guides as well. Is the finish fresh? If it is, the finish can be removed fairly easily Tim.

DR

I vote for what Ray and Duane says. You have a lot of money invested in parts. To me it would be like welding a broken axle back together on a new Caddy instead of replacing it. I couldn't live with it. I would strip the guides and re-wrap. Let your conscience be your guide !

Bruce,,,Thats a definite fix,,,,but I'm too squeamish! I would loose my dinner !

-----"Don't let what you cannot do interfere with what you can do" ----Thanks Ray I love that !

J.B.Hunt
Bowling Green, KY



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/12/2008 02:39PM by Jay Hunt.

Tim
The Trondak plant was supposed to have mailed the answer to your problem, but I will post it here as well so all can see

You must have a pot of water large enough to hold your reel seat and handle. Fill the pot with water sufficiently to cover the reel seat, and set the pot on the stove. Boil the water -- it must reach boiling temperature which is when the bubbles begin to form. A minute or two at this temperature will be sufficient to soften the epoxy enough to move your quarter of an inch. After cooling, the epoxy will be as good as new. The handle should be in the water only after it has reached its boiling point. I implied above that you install the handle in the water prior to heating it. Do not attempt to reach this temperature with a hot air dryer, you will simply burn up everything and not reach the epoxy.
Have fun
Ralph

I'll offer one more possible solution - score the wrap at both ends of your over wraps - go all the way around at both ends. Peel the overwrap and the guide from the blank. Slice the epoxy that settled around the foot/leg of each guide and make sure the surface is smooth and level. Move the guides to the correct position, rewrap on top of the current underwrap, and refinish.

....................

another site also mentioned the solution to correcting mistakes of things that have been epoxied was to place them in boiling water only after the water has begun to boil and they suggested putting it into a heat resistant plastic bag ........... i guess like the kind you cook a turkey in ....... this will help preserve any thread or other work you may have done ......... and it will help you stay on your spline .......

Just a thought

You needn't need the plastic bag unless you're dealing with a wood insert seat, or something that could be adversely affected by the water. In that case, it would be a good idea.

...............