The Pac Bay is a great machine. I don't think you would be disappointed. Go with the upgrade chuck model, and you'll still have money left over for a bunch of blanks compared to most other wrappers. Good Luck, Marc
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Hey Mo! I HAD a 6' ultra-lite with those tiny gudies, and casting was terrible. Eveyrthing you are guessing is right on. For guys throwing a 1/2 oz. spinner bait there may not be much difference, but trying to cast super lite baits is a whole different game. I would not buld any UL spinner with less than size 6's. Those tiny guides may have a place on bass rods, but no way on lite spinning.
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You may want to check out U-40 cork seal too. I messed with the oil for a bit, but have just settled on cork seal. It does darken the cork, and makes burl look really nice, and it's really quick and easy to use. Marc
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Good guess Jim - I'm in north Wisconsin - it's only 9 below zero today without the wind chill!!! One of our warmer days lately. I'll put a little heat on the Base and give it a try. Thanks, Marc
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I have great success with Diamondite on guide wraps. I usually wrap a 3" section of thread and trim with metallic, coat with finish, apply my rod decal, and final coat. On this longer section, I have been getting a lot of bubbles in my Diamondite. I have used various CP's, but still get the little bubbles on the longer wrapped section. Any ideas? With Diamondite CP, do you guys still
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For Bill Stevens - I can't get to ICRBE this year. Is there any way I can get the info presented at the sales seminar? I'll gladly send in an admission fee, not trying to get a freebie, just don't want to miss this good stuff! Thanks, Marc
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Stay away from large ring guides as much as you can with lite rods. Using lite line I often use the same set up Mike recomended, but actually only start with a size 16, the go to the 8, then all 6's. 1-4# line will follow that path no problem, and you'll be happy you don't have the extra weight on the rod.
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You do not need cp with Diamondite. There has been a lot of discussion about using CP other than Diamondite CP, but do not mistake this for meaning you need CP with Diamondite. I highly recomend you check the old posts, and find Jim Gamble's instructions - they will save you lots of learning curve. Good Luck, Marc
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Hey Ken, I agree with your last post, as probably do most multi pc. fans. I think what you are hearing is our frustration with the one pc. is better and I ain't gonna change guys.
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Hey Ken, you got it!! I fish all 2 pc., and I don't think there is any 1 pc rod that will let you feel a hit, where a good 2 pc. wouldn't. And, not that I a great fisherman, I regularly out fish my uncle who is a brainwashed 1 pc is the way to go guy. You can lead a horse to water, but you can't make him drink. It's just so frustrating when you know someone would be better off with a 2 pc, an
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I'll agree with Jim 100% here. There are so many up sides to 2 pc. rods, but the fishing public is stuck on the 1 pc. is better thing. If you can convince your customer to try a good 2 pc. rod, I doubt he will be disappointed. Like all custom builders, I can make anything I want, and all my rods are 2 pc. except my 5' UL (and that would be 2 pc too if I could find a blank!!). Good luck on t
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If a rod is built on an import blank, yet is built in the US, can it be claimed Made in USA? All the major made in USA rods use all import components, except the blank. Also, according to the FET tax law, once you assemble a rod from components you have purchased and paid FET on, you still have to pay FET on that rod when it is sold because you have made a new product. Would this imply that
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Just wondering, has anyone used Diamondite as a primer coat, and finished with a Hi Build epoxy over it? Can anyone see any reason not to? Thanks, Marc
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I use alcohol too - no problem. Look up some of the threads on Diamondite, Jim Gamble has some excellent tips that will shorten your learning curve. Have fun, Marc
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OK - I wasn't going to mention this but........I have seen wholesale price lists from Large US rod makers. In many cases they are asking us to pay as much for a blank as they sell a whole rod wholesale for!!! Part of the reason US blanks are not more cost effective is that they CHOOSE not to be. It they can sell a complete rod wholesale to a dealer for $40.00, how much do you think that blank
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I believe St. Croix is the largest US rod manufacturer, and they are coming out with more import rods every year!!! I think they have an import line for every product they have now - spinning, casting, musky, fly, and saltwater. It is a case of the market dictating what is in demand.
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Hey Uncle Russ, What Am Tak stuff is 2 to 1 mix? By Am Tak, are you refering to American Tackle? If not, where do you get it, and is it an epoxy? Thanks, Marc
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Has anyone used this blank - and just how heavy is it in terms of line and lure rating? Thanks for any info, Marc
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If you have two rod blanks that are same length, same weight, but one is built with a larger dia. and thinner wall, It will be stiffer. My question is, would it be over-all weaker as the larger dia./thinner wall is easier to collapse, than a smaller dia./thicker wall blank? Any thoughts much appreciated. Marc
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On baits up to 2 oz., an 846 Mag Bass blank may do the trick great. If you want more than that, I think many musky rod blanks would really fill that description. Probably ones listed as Medium. Thanks, Marc
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Hey Guys - thanks for the feedback. If it was up to me, I would ONLY build spinning rods with TN handles - love them!. It the general fishing public that seems to be a hard sell. Taping the reel on looks fine and feels great, I have always considered it the mark of a serious angler. Most guys won't go for the wrapping a reel on with thread because they wan't to be able to change reels themse
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We have had a ton of ice fishing derbys here in North WI today. I got to see a lot of gear on it's way to the ice, and it hit me - almost all ice rods have TN handles, and most I saw had reels taped on, not even using rings. Come spring these guys won't touch open water rods with TN handles. Frustrating!!!
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I'm with Lee on this one. I have played with very different guide sizes-types-placement. Very little real world difference. Drop one line size and you will see a difference. On the rod you are talking about it's probably rated for 6-12# line. Cast a 1/4 oz jig with 12# line, then cast it with 6# or 8#, huge difference. Play with guide spacing and sizing all day long, and you'll be scratchi
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I have a customer that really liked the 9' 3wt SCIV, that they no longer make. It could be any number of pcs. If not - can anyone recomend something that will have the same feel? Thanks, Marc
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Thank You Tom! Marc
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When using Jacquard powder pigments for marbling, do you need to top-coat over the marbling to keep it from flaking up, or is it fine enough to stay put?
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I live in North WI, but fish the float-n-fly style a lot, for many species, and have done so long before it was called float-n-fly. I have no problem using a slip float for the technique, and it really allows me to use a shorter rod, which is just handier to me. I use 6' to 7' rods no problem. If you keep the slack out of your line hook sets are not an issue. And the slip float is much easier
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This goes along with the Mag Touch Post - Looks like the new Cabela's catalog has split grip rods all over. Both their private label, and some of the independant companys. What next?
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Hey Paul - are you talking about using Titebond III for gluing cork rings together, or actually bonding a grip or reel seat to a blank? Just interrested. Thanks, Marc
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Jay - I have had the same problem. Wrap with what ever color thread you would like, I suggest using CP if it is any color other than black so the cork grain does not show thru. A coat or two of rod finish, and you are good to go. It will hold up no problem, and looks pretty nice too. Happy New Year, Marc
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