I am interested in giving diamondite a try. All of the instructions i have seen while searching say you need to apply colotr preserver before applying diamondite. I only use NCP thread which does not require the use of CP. Is cp required to help activated the diamondite, or will i be ok not using cp before applying the diamondite?

Thanks,

-Mike

You do not need cp with Diamondite. There has been a lot of discussion about using CP other than Diamondite CP, but do not mistake this for meaning you need CP with Diamondite. I highly recomend you check the old posts, and find Jim Gamble's instructions - they will save you lots of learning curve.

Good Luck,
Marc

It will set-up with or without the CP, no worries there.

However (always a however), I'm using their CP under Diamondite on everything. Nylon, NCP, decal, whatever... It's been my experience that the finish flows on easier and levels better over the CP. I've been using it on lighter rods where I don't want a build-up of finish on the guides. Going straight over NCP, I might have to do several coats to get the finish as flat as I want it. Over CP, it's a one coat deal, pretty much period. I've also found that the Diamondite can get a little "grumpy" over decals or microset. If I CP over the decal or microset before applying the Diamondite, everything works out fine in a single coat.

Mark Griffin
[]
C&M Custom Tackle
San Dimas, California

You do not "need" to apply CP with Diamondite. I do very occasionally. On heavy rods, I use two or more coats of finish. On light inshore rods, I typically only have a single coat. Here's a photo of a guide with only one coat and no CP ... [www.rodbuilding.org]

Thank you for the info guy's. I hope this stuff makes life a little easier and faster. I have never used cp before. If it is required for using waterslides with microsol and set, how long does it need to dry before applying the diamondite? That is the longest part anyway so adding another drying time might be a deal breaker.

Thanks again,

Mike

MICHAEL;

Just to clear up a few things; you don't need to apply a CP to activate Diamondite, therefore, you don't "need" it. However, using Diamondite without CP over regular nylon will turn your wrap black! Or, at least give you some some really black streaks. That, I believe, is why the literature says you have to use a CP with it. I didn't test it with NCP thread. I've tried it with just about every CP that is commercially available, as well as other substitutes, and they all work. (Some better than others...) In any case, Diamondite is really nice stuff. It's very clear, forgiving (you caN MIX small batches); etc., etc.. One caveat though. If you want bubbles in your finish, you'd better mix it it in a blender!

Do do a search for Jim Gamble's post on the subject. He has done extensive work with Diamondite, and was an invaluable resource for me when I first started using it. Good luck, I'm sure you will like the stuff...

Ron.

Thanks Ron. I have done a search, and I think i printed your instructions for using diamondite, and I also printed Tim Campbells instructions. I think between the two I should be good to go. I just reread Tims post and he says the drying time for the cp is 15-20 minutes, so i got it now. I will apply cp over my waterslides after the microsol has set for 24 hours, then diamondite. Hopefully i can get the bubble free smooth finish i have such a hardtime achieving with my current flexcoat lite regiment, especially on bigger areas like decals......

Anyway thank again for all the help, this board is invaluable for any rod builder. I will post my results after i buy some and use it. I may wait and pick some up at the show next week. Cant wait......

-Mike

MICHAEL:
I don't recall, did Tim mention his trick with a hair dryer to kick-off the Diamondite? Heat each wrap with a hair dryer for about 10 seconds while it's turning... That seems to help if you are looking for speed.

RON.