I am looking for one or two Pac Bay 4 rod dryers if anyone knows where there may be some in stock? Thanks!
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Looks nice! Thanks!
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Very cool to hear Spencer - always love your input and historical knowledge.
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Totally agree! I usually run size 17's on my ultra-lites. And no matter how many new seats they come out with - I keep going back to the old Fuji DPSM style or similar. Just working on getting it to look a little more to scale.
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Size 16 seats look nice and to scale on UL spinning rods - and it's what you see on almost all factory rods. But they are just too small for my preference. Has anyone done larger sized seats/handles on UL rods that still "look" like they fit? Thinking more slender cork grips to slenderize the look to start.
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I would not hesitate. I have cut a foot or more off a blank I liked lots of times to get the shorter rod I wanted. Some lend to it better than others, but I think the one you are working on - and being for kids - will be A-OK.
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I like the American Tackle Aero seats. Do you guys build them Up Locking or Down Locking mostly? It seems if you hold with the reel stem between middle finger and ring finger, down locking is spot on. But I often hold the reel stem between my ring finger and pinky - and then up-locking fills your hand really nice. I pause on using them some, as I'm not sure they allow you to float betwe
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I don't have numbers, but have built on it a fair amount if there is anything else I could shed light on.
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New ideas are fun to see. I have to say being a classic guy - I prefer the sleek look of nice stainless guides. And if they have stainless rings, they are already super light guides, so not sure how much performance advantage there would be?
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You may find a lighter Hot Shot blank, trim from the butt end - some of them are awesome like that.
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I was fortunate to get into a lot of fish, so could really give it a test. It didn't take but a dozen fish probably and you could see the line getting a bit more "curl" to it. To be fair - I was fishing with mom and dad, and we all had all-stainless guide set ups, but different lines. 6# mono showed a lot less curl than 4#, and one brand of 6# less than the other. So on one hand y
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Spent some time crappie fishing yesterday and today. I am have settled on the ceramic tip for light mono for sure. Stainless on the rest of the rod is nice and light, but a good, smooth ceramic tip is my preference.
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One thing I can say, is over the years I have seen 2 or 3 tip tops come back grooved. Bass guys that cast and crank a lot. I don't think I have ever seen one grooved on light duty rods like panfish and walleye spinning rods. I have seen tons of ceramic tips with the rings popped out or cracked. I personally have never done it, but for guys that are less careful with their stuff, it's pr
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I would probably fish braid more, except I fish rocky rivers and stump infested flowages. This presents two problems: 1. If you don't use a mono or flouro leader you often just get less bites 2. When you snag - you often break off the leader, so now you are tying on a new leader and a jig, not just a jig. Get's old and time consuming. And way around that?
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You are right Gary - the drag that is really standing out is dry mono while testing. Wet is less so. I was thinking of playing with a nice ceramic tip more.
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All excellent feedback - thank you guys! And thanks for the last comment Chris - that was my last comparison to run - as I think have seen the similar thing with ceramics, but never paid close enough attention at the time. And yes - type / brand of monofilament can make a huge difference! So thanks everyone!
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Looking for input from anyone that has fished rods with stainless rings, and monofilament. Primarily lighter spinning rods (2# - 8# Lines). The guides are very light, enough to notice, which is really nice. But it seems they put some extra wear on the line. After casting a couple of hours, I notice the last foot or so to get a little "curly". Some of the ones I have used where
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I would just say congratulations to Mud Hole and AT. Both have brought us some great products.
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I have done multiple extended musky rods. I hesitate to use anything other than good epoxy. I have seen them start to flex and move a bit. I personally only use Rod Bond on those applications. Sometimes better to wait and do it right once - learned that the hard way one too many times. If I was stuck, I would personally fish a rock solid 8'6" rod before a 10' one that may have issues.
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Looks sharp - nicely done!
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I have been using more bright color thread - hot orange, hot green, pink, but not found a bright Blue that I like - all NCP threads. Anyone know of one?
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I found that it helps compare blanks within one manufacturer some. But I get it. I have seen "IM6" blanks that were well designed and felt better than rods listed as IM8 or 10.
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Just wondering - I have been used to million modulus numbers, but I see the Ton listing popping up more. Just always looking to understand better
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Is there any industry standard to convert Ton rating to a Modulus rating? Like 24T = 33 Million Modulus, etc? If not and industry one, a ballpark conversion chart? Or even which ones fall into the general categories of SM, IM, and HM?
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Gen4 is AMAZING!!! Best finish I have ever used in every way.
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Single foots all the way will hold up to the fish. I have more issues with them holding up to the fisherman. Heavy rods tend to bang into stuff harder. If someone is careful single foots, no problem. And it depends on the design, some single foots are pretty thin, some really tough.
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I see the PLSSD as the last listed seat - almost prefect, but it needs some kind of insert to fill the gap to the blank and the open window on the seat, unless you guys are seeing something else?
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I really wish they would make a size 18 palming seat like the size 20, that doesn't need any inserts.
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Super cool rod! I love short fly rods - I wish there were more blanks to pick from for them. Nicely done!
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Does anyone know if the Fuji PLS palming seat is blank exposed or a full body seat? They say there is a "window", but it's not offered in different bore sizes like blank exposed seats. Has anyone used one and how do they mount to the blank?
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