I am wanting to build another float and fly rod for a winter fishing trip to Tennessee (Dale Hollow Lake). I want to use a slip cork rig (thill) instead of the traditional fixed float. Experiments with the slip cork rig have yielded greater casting distance and accuracy which is important to sneaking up on wary clearwater smallies. However, the float stop does create some resistance as it passes through the guides. The best float stop I have found is the string type with a drop of flexcement added to it; it has the lowest profile, is soft, and I can still slide it up and down the line without it unwravelling.

Does anyone have any experience with this type of fishing and the rod you made to do it?
Would larger rings on the guides lessen the amount of contact with the float stop?
Does the float stop passing through the guides do any damage to the guides?

The traditional rods used in this type of fishing are 9ft. ultralight to medium light spinning or flyrods. The length is needed because the float is fixed to the line between 8 and 12 ft. above a 1/16 crafthair jig. It is somewhat of a hassle to swing cast a rig like this all day, especially in the wind. So, this year, I wanted to try a slip cork rig that I can cast on a 7 ft. rod.

What blank would be a good choice for this type of fishing? I'm looking for around a 7 ft. graphite blank with medium light power to handle smallmouth bass in the 2lb. to 5 lb. range.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/08/2008 02:35PM by les cline.

Les,
I'd go with the long rod regardless, as it's not the rod length that's objectionable, it's the leader length. Long casts and hooksets with a deepwater presentation sure is easier with the longer rods. I'd go at least an 8 ft rod.
The place I'd start is the Rainshadow IST 1142. Another would be the IST 993F which is a fast actioned blank.

Les,

I'll echo what Spencer wrote.

You want the longer rod for the hookset, not just for the leader length.

Remember that the line is making a 90 degree turn at the float. Even with a slip rig, if your bait is ten to fifteen feet down, you got to move a lot of line to get the 'slack' out and get a soid hookset.

Something in an 8 to 10 foot length with as fast an action as you can get (you want a fast action if you are using a slip float, a softer action will throw the long leader of a 'set' float better).

The float stop is going to strike the guides the same way, regardless of their size. Nothing you can do in that regard except to use good guides. I prefer those little rubber 'football' shaped stops, they seem to pass really easy, but you will still 'feel' them chatter as they hit the guides.

Keeping the line path of your guides as straight as possible is helpful. I used a guide wrapped on as the tip on the last one of these I built, so it 'matched' exactly. Many tubed tip tops have an odd angle and a different 'height' from the blank.

Great technique. We are using a modified version with a fly rod out here for winter largemouths.....lots of fun.

Buddy Sanders

Les -- I live in middle Tennessee and Dale Hollow is just up north of me. We fish it and several other lakes around this area, using the float-n-fly method for Smallmouth and Spotted Bass. You may want to re-consider about using a slip float. You will not obtain near the action from your jig when using a slip float that slides up and down the line. A slip float does not grab and hold the line like the other floats and just will not provide near the action. Windy days make for better fishing. The wind and wave action make the float dance around better and this is what gives the jig more action. Thus resulting to a fish on, hopefully. I personally fish a ten foot rod, that is made from a 6 wt. fly blank. By using the 10 footer, I can cast more line under the float easier. Which also allows me to fish deeper. I can fish down 15 to 20 ft, when using the 10 footer. I would think long and hard about using a slip float. A pear shaped float that attaches to the line is my choice. One other thing about using a float that attaches/fixed to the line. Sometimes a fish will hit the jig and swim up. When this happens the float will turn up and lay sideways. You better reel up the slack fast and get him. That is just a scenario that we learned over time.

Bob McKamey -- Custom Tackle Supply

Thanks everyone!

I'm not new to rod-making but new to this forum. I'm extremely impressed with the quality, dedication, and technical expertise you all have shown. I want to attend the Expo in North Carolina. I went to grad school in Wake Forrest and passed through High Point many times.

I wondered about the advantages of a slip vs. fixed float...and Bob you described it very well. I'm sure Bob Coan and other smallmouth guides fix their float for a reason at Dale Hollow.

The longer rod sounds like the way to go either way as it will allow me to sweep cast and/or move a lot of line for hooksetting and line mending on a deep jig. I'v fished with a 9ft., 6 wt. flyrod and fixed cork in the past and it is a good rig. I was hoping that I could achieve the same results with a slip cork rig and shorter rod (even an 8 footer would be a bit more manageable to me). But, as always, my main goal is to catch fish...Even If I have to go to a spey rod!...now there's an idea :)

Is there a good 10 ft. rod blank that would get me in the ballgame for fixed float casting?

Les -- When you fish deeper or have more line under your fixed float, it can be a little tricky when you are landing the fish and trying to get it to you. When you have 18 ft of line under the fixed float, landing the fish is a trick. That is when those long 21 foot bass boats come in handy. The man with the rod is in front of the boat and his partner goes all the way to the back. As far as a 10 footer, look at the Batson/Rainshadow - model IF1006. Comes in either matte grey or green gloss finish. I've got those on our site -- www.customtackle.com or give me a call at 931-684-6164, if you had rather discuss your prject by phone. Just remember that trick about the fixed float turning up sideways. When it does that , reel fast and set the hook.

Bob McKamey -- Custom Tackle Supply

Les - attend the expo - make my seminar on technique specific bass rods - by a show of hands I'll be going over some until time runs out. If I don't get to the float and fly - stop by the Rodmaker booth - I'll be there on the even hours. I've been doing what you're interested in for some time - in competition - 8ft rod (max allowed), slip bobber & fly, down to ANY depth you have the patience for. Lethal moneymaker under certain conditions.

I would give the info here - but I already owe Tom several Techniqe Specific articles - float and fly is one of them.

Thanks Bob and Richard!!!

I'll give you a call, Bob.

And I'll see you at your seminar, Richard, and stop by the Rodmaker booth, too.

This is great!

I live in North WI, but fish the float-n-fly style a lot, for many species, and have done so long before it was called float-n-fly. I have no problem using a slip float for the technique, and it really allows me to use a shorter rod, which is just handier to me. I use 6' to 7' rods no problem. If you keep the slack out of your line hook sets are not an issue. And the slip float is much easier to land fish with. I think you would do just fine with a 7' ML spinner, and it is a much more versatile rod. To me those long rods never balance as nice, and are more fatigue over a days fishing. Remember - there is always more than one way to do things - if there wasn't we'd all be fishing with cane poles still.

Marc,

Sounds like you've got some experience with the slip float and the type of rod that works for this technique.
Thank you for your input...confidence is a big factor in how hard I will fish a new technique. Your experience with this adds to my confidence level.

Look in the left side "The rod shop"and ask Mark to tell you the best blank for float rod!!!