I find a spiral wrap with a baitcaster much easier to reel in Salmon/Steelhead over a spinning or fly reel. And with a baitcaster, I can land the offering more precisely where I want.
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My first spiral was a "revolver" type with the stripper offset about 10 degrees to the opposite side first, then two more guides at 60 & 120 to the first 180 - this is my main Salmon/Steelhead rod solely because of the blank, not the spiral design. My second spiral used the "bumper" system - works well but I don't like the looks. Right, wrong, or indifferent - the res
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Awhile back, I built a 13' Talon ITM float rod using Recoil singe foot spinning guides. But armed with an Islander Steelheader, I just couldn't get the hang of casting with a pin. So I contacted Talon, and for $15 plus $8 returned shipping, I sent in the middle section and they fitted a butt section to it and return both to me. Using two low profile boat guides, I made a spiral wrap and used
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On my spinning projects, they all seem to wind up with a 25-16-8 with a 6 choker, irregardless of the size of the reel (they are reasonably close though). But I use the table method since the 27x is usually too far for my liking on Salmon size reels. The butt guide usually falls around the 20"-21" range - but that's just me.
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I'm going to try braid on my baitcaster for the first ime this fall Salmon season. I've got my spool loaded with braid but with mono underneath. But I'm rethinking maybe I'll respool it with all mono and just put 100 yards of braid on the outside. I'm interested in mainly using the thinner line for drifting and the hook setting ability. I'm more concerned with tying braid to mono than I am with i
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Todd Theodore Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I always go w/ the butt of the rod hitting right > in the "meat" of the underside of my forearm. > Place the seat wherever it falls. I'm pretty close to what Todd says. You can take a broom handle or a golf club and find the "spot" where you like it. My butt ends in the little pocket
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I do something similar to Bill does but completey backwards. I static test the the upper section first except where the last two guides would fall. I bought a bunch of df low profile boat guides and I slide the line thru two different sizes and then the rest of the guides on the blank. With the line coming out of the line guide centered on the reel, I put a really good flex in the blank, and the
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The ERN for a 16 wt is listed at 173 pennies, I assume there's math somewhere to calculate how many pennies for an 18 wt. Keep trying blanks until one third deflection requires that amount of pennies . . . or you could reverse engineer the lure ratings.
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I landed several Salmon on my last fall with 10 1/2" Batson using 12# Siglon and 8# tippet. I've switched to using a spiral wrapped baitcaster over a spinning rod since it's easier to land the offering exactly whre I want it.
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bill boettcher Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > But the tip where there is usually all the breaks > IMHO, I feel should be protected more so I usually > start with the first guide - light stuff- at 3 -4 > ". from tip top. I think the tip section gets crowded more than it needs to be, tip breakage usually comes from stupidity IMO. On eve
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If you think that's unusual, check out my post from 5 years ago . . .
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Thanks Tom, that's really intersting. That would put your butt guide about 26 7/16" from the spool lip. I actually built this rod using the older table top method and put a 7mm choker 49 1/2" from the reel with the following transition guides behind the choker: #25 - 28 (21 1/2" to spool) #16 - 17 # 8 - 8.875 It casts great and with the reversed Fuji IPSM seat I'm
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Spindle tip height would be how high the center shaft that goes thru the spool sits above the reel's foot (that slides into the reelseat). I would think most reels with that size spool lip diameter would be fairly consistant height-wise sitting off the reelseat. Tom - my reelseat is a Fuji ISP 16mm, (can't believe you don't have any B/CYAG or TLSG guides in your toolbox).
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I was going to list how I built my GLoomis Mahogany 9 1/2' blank using a combination of the staic test/table top method but that's really a moot point. What I'd really like to know is with a spool lip diameter of 61.56mm (2.42"), the spindle tip 3.54" above the reel foot, and a 7mm choker guide 65 7/16" from the spool face, what Fuji Y guide sizes and spacings would be appropria
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I'm fussy and I like to alter my rods for the exact balance that I want when fishing. Plus I haven't seen too many spiral wraps for baitcasters at Cabelas quite yet - I know I've built at least 6 of them, I might find 7 if I took inventory . . .
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Tim Collins Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I never mastered "applying with a spatula" so I > drop the finish onto the wrap with a brush, > rotate, and wick it off the bottom with a spatula > - duh. I don't know about the others but I use Threadmaster Lite and being it's a bit thin already - it has a tenency to drip off the spatula ra
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I never mastered "applying with a spatula" so I drop the finish onto the wrap with a brush, rotate, and wick it off the bottom with a spatula - duh.
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Joe Vanfossen Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > With casting > reels, I place all of the guides using static > placement. I start at the tip and work back, > adding one guide at a time, and placing them so > the line will just touch the top of the blank > between each pair of guides, when under load. I thought I was the only one that
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Sounds like you have a blank with two imaginary "somethings" at 3 and 9 o'clock when the blank is in a relaxed stressed state. Since it's your project, you can build it on one of those relaxed positons or you can use the straightest axis - you get to pick whichever way you want to build it.
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bill boettcher Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Tim > > Who was that Newtons Law No, that was Common Sense Law.
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Russell Brunt Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Bill, if you take a bullet out of the > cartridge....and drop it from the same height as a > bullet shot from a horizontal barrel....which one > reaches the ground first? I'll answer this for Bill - they'll hit the ground at the same time, if dropped at the same time.
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Michael Danek - impressive post!
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So is a 7 guide arrangement placed into 41 1/2" the accepted spacing for this 6' rod?
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Phil Erickson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I recommend using the Forhan wrap, it is good > insurance against a potential problem. I use it on > all my single foot fly rod warps regardless of > guide brand. +1
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Bill Eshelman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > All you have to do is go > to the top right of the page and click on the > previous or next button. It will take you right > to where you want to go. > > Bill I'm not sure what that accomplished - must be my settings are messed up or something.
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No big deal but on all of the other forums I view, if a response is given to a particular thread, that thread moves back to the top of the list - keeping the discussion active. Just wondering if that's a pricey forum feature or if dying a natural death is the preferred ending to the posting here?
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David, what didn't you like with Sage's spacings - the 6" for the first guide or 12 1/16" for the second guide? I've built both the XP 7100 and 8100 at those exact factiory spacings and with a Steelhead on the 7wt and a Salmon on the 8wt - the front 18'-20" of the rod was pointed dead straight at the fish, so I don't worry about breaking a tip. The 7wt was built with df TiCH snakes
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I wouldn't mind building another Salomon/Steelhead rod but there doesn't seem to be many 8' - 9' 3 piece blanks in the 8-12#, 3/4-1oz -ish blanks available. I saw a St Croix SCII and a Traveler series from American Tackle but both were only in the 7' - 7 1/2' range. I don't want to use a fly blank, I realy want a solid butt section in a spinning blank. Thanks.
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Since I figured out how to use a baitcaster now, I'd like to go back now and try 20# braid on it for Salmon fishing. I'll be drifting spawn and various egg patterns and want to use some rather expensive weights that I don't want to lose - and I want the least amount of drag affect on the line from the current. But I remember hearing about under a heavy load, that braid will dig itself into the wo
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Check @#$%& on the left column for sponsors, click on "what's an Acid Rod" on the left, click on "Acid rod construction" on the right, and a degree wheel will pop up that you can printout. Just make a little pointer stand to start at a zero reference and you're all set. I use mine for all of my spiral wraps.
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