Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Tim, > > The choke and intersect guides are one and the > same. > > Lon is not using the 27X method, he stated that at > the outset. Tom - I misspoked - I meant 2nd guide and intersect. When he said he was using the NGC and your instructions, I automatically thought it was the re
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Lon - so your butt guide is about 23.3" from the reel, the butt and 2nd guide are 18.5" apart, and the choke and intersect guide are 8.67" apart? The 30mm butt seems a bit large to me whereas a 25mm would have shortened the distance between the butt and 2nd guide, and another transition guide seems appropriate - I'm not sure. That spacing just seems weird to me, no wonder I strugg
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Lon - what are your spacings from the reel face for the 30, 16, and 8mm intersect guide and what is the diameter of your spool? Thanks.
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Luis - what guide sizes and spacings did you wind up with on this rod?
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Luis - with it set up this way do you think your rod resembles a New Guide Concept or the old Cone of Flight method?
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roger wilson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > p.s. > In the future, if you want to balance a 13 foot > rod with a short back grip, move the reel all of > the way back and make a grip for your hand several > inches in front of the reel. > There is a name for this rod style that is used in > the pacific northwest which escapes me. >
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This is how I solved the balance issue on my 13' Talon - with no additional weight added.
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Huh?
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Thanks Mike and Emory, actualy the stiffest and softest planes are 180 degrees apart. So if I put the guides on the stiffest plane (spiral wrap), the weight of the guides should pull the tip down to straight. Secondary question - if the blank had only one stiff plane and the rod was flexed downward, I would think that the stiff plane is on the 12 o'clock side. However, with two planes 180 deg
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I'm starting to work on the guide spacing for my back bouncing rod and want to make the tip section as sensitive as I can to detect bites - I know that's a challenge on this heavy of a black. I've located two straight axis positions - tip bows up and tip bows down. If we go back to 8 years ago or so when spine orientation seemed to dominate the topics, I've found that this blank has two &qu
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I build locking up (threads at the bottom). Reason being most spinning rods are usually tip heavy so I like to slip my hand up abit onto the foregrip to help balance the rod - and I can cast with my hand there as well. I wouldn't want threads in my way.
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Well I have several ECS seats and like them so I'll stick with them. Of course it didn't hurt when Karen @ Bingham's had the 13mm I needed as an overrun on sale for $2!
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So mine must be a "fast spiral". I static test the upper section, the last guide becomes my 1st 180, flex the heck out of the blank and integrete two low profile boat guides spaced where ever the line touches the bottom of the ring coming off the reel to the 1st 180 - the 0 guide is offset about 10-15 degrees, the whatever guide is 100-120 degrees or so, and the line is straight as a s
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A search on this didn't bring anything up (could have been me). I've used the Fuji ECS exposed blank reelseat before and like it, just wondering what people think of the newer ACS? I remember seeing both pros and cons with the ACS when it first came but what's the thought on them now? Thanks.
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I am building the rod.
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This rod is intended back bouncing only - I have plenty of rods for other situations.
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I was reading up on back boncing and one online article said these rods usually have oversized guide rings on them. I have some 6mm Fuji SIC titanium sf guides left over that I was planning to use for this rod so I only have to get the matching tip top. I'd like to make the rod as light as possible, wouldn't these guides work or do I have to use something different? Are there any specific spac
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Duh . . . found it!
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Thanks Tom, I tried to find the URRS formula in the search feature and in the CCS article but I couldn't find one.
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I set up my St Croix 2C80HF blank this morning, clamp it 12" from the butt end as prescribed, and it took 278 pennies to deflect it 32". I found a formula of 3.48 times cents - 20 = grains and this converts to an ERN of 2.17 ozs - but I still don't know what that means. If I use the casting lure weight formulas, I get a casting weight range of .46 oz to .9 oz. When I get ready to use th
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I wasn't planning to cast 4 or 6 ozs but I know I'm going to have to use 1 1/2 - 2 ozs where I fish. This fall the water level was the highest I can remember and I was using 7/8 oz of lead just to drift and keep it ticking along at the bottom of the gravel runs and into the pools. I would think I'll need alot more weight than that to toss behind the boat and make it stay put. In another post Tom
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I just got a St Croix 2C80MF backbouncing blank that was suppose to have a 1-4oz lure rating (online catalog) but the label on it says1-6oz now. Using the CCS formula of {.8 x cents-20 = grains / 1.5 x cents -20 = grains} really only gives a "range" of almost double ( .8 and 1.5). According to my math, 700 pennies would give a range of 1.23 - 2.35 ozs, 1500 pennies gives a range of 2.
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Thanks Chris but I tried that already - email bounced back as invalid and the gal at customer service couldn't help. She tranferred me to the ordering desk, could't get thru, left a message, no call back. I'll try again. Thanks.
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I have a St Croix 2C80HF on order from Bingham that will be shipped directly from St Croix near the end of the month. I'd like to order components ahead of time but need to know what size exposed blank reel seat to get that allows for about 11" of rear grip. Thanks.
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I was checking my inventory and I do have a SIC titanium frame TLSG10 guide. Aren't the titanium frames stronger than the steel CLAG frames? Thanks.
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I've been using a different spiral wrap strategy lately that I really like and would like to lighten up the guide arrangement even more. My first 180 guide is roughly 37"-40" from the reel based on the blank's flex and I've been incorporating low-profile double foot boat guides into a 2 guide "revolver" type setup. They are arranged so that the line touches the bottom centers
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Ken Finch Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > You did not say what line test or type you plan to > use. With a Penn 4500 I doubt it will be small or > light, right? Braid maybe? Where the choke guide > best falls depends on the spool size and line > used. You cannot just pull it closer arbitrarily > with the heavier lines and expect it to work
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You might want to try the 21X method as an alternative and see how that works.
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Another polarizing thread but the rods I've built with GLoomis blanks are my favoite rods.
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Chris Davis Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Tim, I'm with Robert on the Rogue BB796 Thanks Robert and Chris, is this a 1 or 2 piece blank? Thanks.
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