Since I figured out how to use a baitcaster now, I'd like to go back now and try 20# braid on it for Salmon fishing. I'll be drifting spawn and various egg patterns and want to use some rather expensive weights that I don't want to lose - and I want the least amount of drag affect on the line from the current. But I remember hearing about under a heavy load, that braid will dig itself into the wound spool and creating some issues. Will salmon cause this "digging in" or are we talking Tuna and Tarpin loads? Thanks.

Tim,

I use braid on several of my rods and have found that if the line is spooled on properly from the get go it will help minimize the line from digging into the wound line. I use braid for blue water and fresh and have minimal issues with it.

Tight lines,

John Hernandez

So CaL

Put it on correctly and it will not bury deep into the spool. If it is put on wrong it can be a nightmare.

If you are spooling overload the spool with excess - walk off all the line and tie it off - reel it back on with very tight tension pulled. Your will immediately see the difference. If you are having it spooled in a shop be sure the guy is experienced and ask for maximum tenison on the load. Whent the stuff is put on the spoon tight it will not bury. It will be a little pain to get used to - carry a tooth pick in your pocket to free overspool loops - after a little you will never go back.

Don't forget to use mono backing otherwise the braid will spin on the spool.

Cheers

Walt

Good advice from all. I especially like Walt's statement. A friend found out the hard way, with a big fish on. If you tie it on around the spool, it will definitely slip on the spool. He thought his drag was shot ! If the spool has holes in it, then tie through the holes not around the spool. Or start with a few wraps of mono and tie the braid to the mono.

J.B.Hunt
Bowling Green, KY

For my Salmon/Steelhead bank drift fishing eventhough I have a 9 1/2' 8 - 12lb rod I still use 50 lb spiderwire (12 lb mono equivilent dia.) because there is a lot of wads of mono on the bottom and it is easy to get tangled in it. Therefore I can usually pull free with just losing the lure (corky). With this line I absolutely do not use the rod in any way to pull free. I also use a 8 to 12 lb leader. the light ones when they are spooky and hesitant to bite. Also if you are using a weight, use a Slido and put it on your mainline ahead of your barrel swivel. Finally, probably just me, but when I have used the lighter braids I had a heck of a time getting any knots out of the line. Oh by the way, If you go to braid, be sure you use a knot made to be used on braid. The one I use, don't remember the name, was suggested in the spiderwire hand out and vide. It also allows you to slide your knot up close to the eye on your lure (some lures recommend you don't cinch your knot on the eye or you may inhibit the action) without cinching on the eye. If after playing a fish the knot has slid forward clinching on the eye, they can just be backed off. Use a different knot than is usually used on mono or you may find the knots sliding undone.

For heavier saltwater, I'll tie braid to the spool. But first, I will put 1 layer of gaffers tape around the spool. Second, I leave a 3" tag end, then I tape that down, too. Adds weight on light stuff, but works good on the heavier!

Better up the diameter/poundage and carry an extra reel. You don't know what a back-lash is until you have seen braid backlash. The reason a lot of bass fisherman use 65 lb braid is not so they can land hundred pound fish but so they can cast the stuff on their high speed reels. As far as current drag, light braid is so limp that any current just spins it all over the place like around swivels and sinkers and such.You might be o.k. with it if you keep a tight line to the lure all the time.

you don't want your drag cranked down all the way...when you snag up or if a big fish lunges, your line will dig ifthe drag isn't set properly

Match your braid diameter to your mono and load the line while wet. Most people make the mistake of matching line weights which causes nothing but problems.

I believe that most of the braid digging in is in the past- new braids are round, and I've had no trouble in years with digging in. Power Pro and Suffix are my favorites, and for baitcasting I like about 30 pound test, setting the drag much lighter because with zero stretch, you don't want too much shock. I've had salmon open split rings right up on the strike. I like to use shock leader in about 20 pound test. The knot between the two lines is of great importance, be sure you have a good one and know how to tie it.

I was rushed off line yesterday, will complete my comments on the knot issue. Most use a double uni knot to connect the shock leader to the braid, and I have used it for years with only one issue- you have five thicknesses of the thick line with it, and it is not a really small knot. It may not go through smaller guides as well as you want (keep in mind that how smoothly it goes through the guides is somewhat influenced by how long the shock leader is-experiment to find what works best with your combination of lines).

I have been using the Albright knot for the last year, and am finding it a better alternative. The thick line only has two thicknesses of line, so it is very compact. I have had no durability problems, but I still recommend retying after a tough couple days of fishing, just in case (same as double uni).