Check @#$%& on the left column for sponsors, click on "what's an Acid Rod" on the left, click on "Acid rod construction" on the right, and a degree wheel will pop up that you can printout. Just make a little pointer stand to start at a zero reference and you're all set. I use mine for all of my spiral wraps.
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bill boettcher Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Not to be a pain - but why even use a burner ??? I like to warm my wraps up a bit so they'll drip a little more allowing me to pull as much finish off at the bottom as I can for a really thin and lightweight wrap.
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > There is no inserted end into the male section. > > I'm guessing you mean at the top of the male > section inside the female ferrule? > > ............ Yes I would say that's another way of saying where "the end of the inserted section stopped".
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Not sure if Roger's first sentence is describing what I do, but based on a guy I've bought several blanks from - I think he may have been a sponsor on this site at one time - he recommended a wrap a little ways down the ferrule over the area where the end of the inserted section stopped. I have no clue whether this is worth the effort or not but I've been putting a 1/4" wide or so wrap the
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I have a 13' Talon float rod and never could get the hang of casting a pin and it was built using recoils in a spinning rod guide set up. I got another butt section from Talon which I made into a spiral wrap and married the spacings into the upper two sections. With my baitcaster, I can cast into the next zip code now.
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whoops - double post.
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bill boettcher Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Greg > Thanks. Spacing on the tip being further apart is > something I am hoping to achieve. > > IMHO this is not good The tip is the most flexible > part of a rod and needs more guides to - Protect > It - from breakage. All or most rods have the tip > top guides closer together and a
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Not to start a war but I'm always amazed when I go to Cabelas and on the high end rods there , I've never seen a factory GLoomis, St Croix, or whatever spinning rod follow the length plus one for guide numbers. Fly rods yes, but not spinning. In fact, I see alot of 6 & 7 guide setups on 8 footers. Tom did a blank destruction test awhile back and I don't remember the details but I thought it c
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I realize there are resins, etc., in addition to the graphite sheet when making a blank but the term "graphite composite" in advertising to me seems to resemble the ingredients of a hot dog whereas a top of the line premium blank would be considered top sirloin. Or is my assumpsion unfounded? Thanks.
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A friend asked me to fix his bamboo rod that has a broken tip. From what I can tell, he lost about 1 1/2" off the end and I've already told him it won't fish like it used to and I'll need a 6.5 tube top. Also, about 1 1/2" -2" of the remaining tip is split so I'll have to secure that before putting on the tip. Would TiteBond III work on that or would a simple super glue type repa
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On page 21 of the latest RodMaker is a picture of Bill Colby's Transparent Wrap. I assume this is done with white Gossamer or some sort of silk thread? Always wanted to do one of these myself, thanks.
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Go to the PB link and click on "New Products".
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Well, still abit confused on what the original intention for CCS is/was. Now it's a guide, starting point, depends on the line taper, bla, bla. When I read Dr. Henneman's CCS article on the left here, it clearly states on the very first line: "How to accurately determine the proper casting or line weight for any blank". I don't see where it says to upline the rod just in case it doesn'
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Bill, that makes no sense - "Numbers are a starting point and NOTHING IS WRITTEN IN STONE " Then why was the CCS system created? I thought it was a method to determine what would properly load a rod. If a rod has a specific ERN, I should be able to go buy that line weight and use it effectively. If I need to buy a range of several different line weights to find which one casts best -
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > The load on the rod is created by the weight of > the line/lure and the input of the fisherman. If > Tim will simply move up a line size or two, he > will find that his fast action rods load and cast > quiet nicely. I'm really confused now. I've taken CCS data on 3 fly rods and checked the line w
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My understanding of the terms is probably part of my problems as well. When I think of action, I'm thinking where the bend point is - soft would be closer to the butt, firm would be closer to the tip. When I think of power, I think utralight, light, medium or heavy - I need to spend more time in the glossary section. Thanks.
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Well, I used to have my CCS data and the Umpqua fly line analyzer weights on file but lost everything when my computor crashed a few months ago. But I do remember my fly line weights pretty much matched my GLoomis 7' GLX 3wt and my Sage 8 3/4' SP 5wt. I just rigged up both and nothing has changed. I have to cast the 7' GLX alot quicker than the softer 8'9" Sage SP. However, I don't try t
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Seems like there's several threads latley on this subject and I'm really confused about Paul Rotkis's statement of never using a slower action. I got into fly fishing and rod building a little over ten years ago and allowed "marketing" to influence my decisions I think. When they'd advertise fast or extra-fast, it makes me think I'm getting something "extra" for my money. I fo
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roger wilson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I use the very simple method. > > I have the handle in place with the reel mounted. > > I then, began to pull down on the tip of the rod. > > I make note, of the first location on the rod > where the rod begins to bend or have a significant > flex. I mark this spot and use it for
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Chuck Mills Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > As I understand it, approximately 10% of the blank > should be supported. That would be more like 8". > No? I might be wrong on that. > > Chuck I was under the impression Dr. Henneman recommended supporting 12" of the butt end - did it change to 10% ?
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Instead of ordering online - which has fixed shipping charges built into their website - you can call them directly and ask if there's a shipping alternative for small items. Often you can get a reduced rate but you have to call to get it.
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I've lost the brass colored cap that goes with my rod tube. All I can calculate is the minor diameter of the threads which is roughly 1.630" - can someone tell me what the OD would be? Thanks.
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You can search for "best discount camera reviews" and go from there - here is a link to cnet. I just did the same type of search for handycams (including in-store visits) and found a model that I liked for $500. But my online search revealed the prior model was actually a better option since it had a 4mp instead of the newer 3 mp camera option. After another search, I found it on Amaz
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Thanks guys, well yesterday I set two nearly empty bottles of hardner next to the furnace and eventually drained the smaller one into the larger one to get 1.5 cc's which I was able to mix and get perfect results - I'll just get a new set whenever I make my next rod order and pitch my old mismatched stuff.
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Awhile back my bottle of Lite hardener leaked out somehow and I'm wondering if I can use regular Threadmaster hardner with Threadmaster Lite resin for something in between the two? I would think they should be compatible but thought I better see if anyone had tried it before? Thanks.
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Antique Gold without CP (#340 I think) is what I was told and is what I used on mine.
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I bought an Utmost blank that has a tip top diameter ranging from .0595" to .060" on my calipers. Should I order a 4.0 (.0625") or a 4.5 (.0703") tip top? I've never had one so close as this one, thanks.
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I can do one better - talked with Carol on Wednesday, mailman delivered it Friday!
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I agree with Mike. For what I build for myself, I like my grip hand to touch all cork and adjust the length so that the butt rests in a little "pocket" on the underside of my forearm just in front of my elbow - not everyone's hand and length is the same.
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I'm getting ready to do another rod and it looks like I got too much CL on two of the wraps. On one it collected at the bottom and left slight glob. On another it's a bit less and looks like it will dry over a larger area. I touched them with a bit more CL thinking it might dissolve what's there slightly and make it spread out a bit evenly. If it leaves a bump, I would think that bump will show
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