About 7 1/2 years ago I built a fly rod using a Pac Bay A7C-T real seat with a small Sage fighting butt. Between the end of the seat and the fighting butt is a transition ring. I cannot find this transition ring anywhere, I email Pac Bay with this same picture below and the gal there had no clue where it came from. Does anyone know where these are available? Thanks.
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Mud Hole Custom Tackle Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- >Now is your chance to own the > “Cadillac” of St. Croix rod blank fleet at > “Ford” prices. Hey, I'm retired salaried from Ford - at least we didn't take any bailout!
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Thanks Geoff, I did look thru the CCS data to get an idea but that would be assuming that everyone can measur the AA perfect every time - which I doubt is the case. Years ago I asked if "20 Rodmakers passed the same blank around and static tested it for guide spacings, how much variance would there be"? The responders agreed there would be a wide range of variances even if they all took
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Bill - on every other forum I can make a click, a window pops up, select, load, boom! It must be a me thing - I always seem to have trouble here so I don't bother anymore. Well I can only seem to load one photo at a time and then I have to start the process all over again for more pics . . .
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Awhile back, I built a float rod from a 13' Talon ITM blank - really nice blank. Since I couldn't cast a pin worth a darn I called Talon, sent them in the middle section, and they fitted another butt section for a measely $15. I turned that bottom section into a spiral wrap with some low profile boat guides. I can almost cast into the next zip code with this outfit. If pictures weren't so hard to
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Thanks Tom but that didn't quite answer my question, I'll try it this way. St Croix makes both a 2 and 4 piece SCIV 9' 10wt blank. Both take a size 4 tip, the 42F9010.2 has a .430" butt dia, the 42F9010.4 has a .410" butt dia - why the diifference in butt diameters for the same length and weight blanks?
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I've been a bowhunter for 50 years and have learned the a larger thin walled arrow shaft is stiffer than smaller diameters with thicker walls. That said I've been pouring over various 9' 10wt fly blanks and I see a trend in every manufacture so far. Although the tip sizes seem to remain constant, butt diameters are consistantly larger on 2 piece blanks than on 4 piece blanks. I thought this was
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Thanks Jim, "FWIW, my conversion from “my” Action Angles are: <59 deg = slow; 59-63 deg = mod; 63-66 deg = mod/fast; 66-70 deg = fast; >70 deg = x-fast". Right, wrong, or indifferent - it makes pretty good sense to me . . .
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We hang a bag of pennies off the tip to determine a fly blank's ERN - I thought which was basically to know which line to use to load it properly. It just seems odd that someone hasn't already established the AA breakdown of what 1/4 flex, 1/2 flex, and full flex blanks would actually read. But I can figure out what I have with the <59 for slow and >66 for fast - if those numbes are truly
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In the common cents info, the action angle is described in degrees as: <59 = slow >66 = fast Is there anything available that would define this even further to include moderate, med fast, and extra fast? Thanks.
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There's two blanks that I'm considering and I'm trying to understand how each would react without handling them in person. I want to strip streamers to Salmon holding over gravel in a rather swift current on occasions. I understand where a faster action helps mend the line easier but I don't want the bend point so far up the rod that the fish kicks my rear end. Here's the specs for each, the Matr
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Looks great, I'll let you know how it comes out, thanks. Now I have to see what an Alox guide is . . . Duh . . . aluminum oxide.
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Eugene, I like your posts on sf Recoils for a couple guides and df Recoils the rest of the way on fly rods. For my 9' 10wt, I'll either go with the AT Matrix or a Batson RX7. The St Criox guide suggestion starts with (4) #4 and the (4) #5 fly guides. If the suggested spacings start at 4.5 - 9.5 - 15.5 - 21.625 - 28.875, how many RSFX sf guides would you put behind the tip top before going t
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Thanks Eugene. Which titanium guides do you use?
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Thanks for the help guys. I did dig out my old 2003-2004 REC Components price guide and it refers to the RSF and RSFX guides as "RECOIL single foot (snake) guides. But I understand why the double foot is referred to as a "snake" - our bad. Thanks again.
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Ken Preston Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Not sure what you mean by "single foot snakes" > unless you just mean single foot wire guides - if > you mean single foot wire for strippers - sure. > > Other than that I'm not completely convinced > that a 9' 10 wt rod to be used for salmon needs to > be all that "
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I plan to build a moderate-fast 9' 10wt as my next project for Salmon and keeping the upper tip section as light as possible is my main goal. I've used ceramics on fly rods before but I'm thinking even double wraps on snake guides would be just as light. I have two questions: - Are the TiCh snake guides worth almost triple the money? What are the real advantages? - Has anyone ever put sin
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Thanks Bob.
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I was digging thru some old RodMaker magazines and was reading up on Rich Forhan's "Playing with rod spine" article and his reference to OSCAR and ISCAR. Just wondering when that issue was published? Thanks.
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FBCC-4, thanks Bill. I couldn't find them when I first looked. Todd - I'll probably use a simple A7 or A8 type aluminum reel seat. Anything should butt up against these fighting butts.
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I've always used the Sage type butt caps on my heavy duty fly rods - both small and large, with the black EVA and cork. But I can't remember which sponsor on the left I got them from. I've gone thru half the list already - does anyone know who carries them? Thanks.
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Bob Riggins Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > The Matrix runs about $85 and is > medium fast. You have to like the graphite design > in the butt section though. What's the issue with the graphite design in the butt section? Thanks.
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I haven't built a rod in awhile and I'm thinking of making a 9' 10 wt for Salmon fishing next year. I'm not really a fan of 4 pc rods and a 2 pc suits me just fine. And something in a moderate fast action is alot easier to fight fish with than these fast or extra fast blanks - I'm getting older instead of younger. Under $100 would be nice as well, thanks.
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roger wilson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Tim, > I just recently did a fly rod with bad finish on > the old wraps. > Rather than just putting another layer of finish > on the old wraps, I chose to cut all of the guides > off of the rod, clean up the blank, rewrap the rod > with the guides, or new guides as needed and then > re
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Many years ago I built a Sage 5 piece SP 5 weight and although it fishes great, the finish on the wraps leaves something to be desired as a newbie back then. Since then I've gotten a bit better at applying finish - especially with Threadmaster Lite. Also on an earlier project I recall "light sanding" some wraps and it refinished beautifully - I assume that still holds true. After s
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Well, based on the help here and some reviews online, I'm thinking somewhere between a Lamson Radius 3.5 versus the Okuma Helios 8/9 - too dang many decisions. Help me!
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I discovered a rod I built years ago (duh) that I've never fished. I think it was an Austin Allstar 3 piece that was suppose to be a 6 or 7 weight, but at 70 pennies, it finished up with an ERN of 8.84. So I think I'll take it Salmon fishing next year and it needs it's own reel. I saw a Redington Delta 9/10 yesterday for about $240 and I thought it seemed to have a real nice drag. I saw onlin
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As a rodbuilder, the best thing is you get to build it the way YOU want to. Don't know if I'm just lucky or what but my last several rods have had the spine and the straightest axis were almost on the same indentical plane . . . go figure.
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Duh - that makes sense. Thanks Kevin.
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While Salmon fishing over gravel beds last fall I ran into a guy that was drift fishing using Lindy No Snagg sinkers because he said they did a better job keeping the offering down on the bottom. I bought both 1/2oz and 3/4oz Lindys but there was no instructions which way they go onto the line. Does the "curve" go with the current or does it face the opposite direction? Thanks.
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