Another problem is that the thread carriage hits it if you are trying to wrap close to the chuck..
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Mine moves a little at the start, then after a minute or so stays pretty stationary, but room is 70 to 78 degrees and bottles are warmed up a little before mixing.
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Thanks Bill
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Thanks John
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I would also appreciate a copy if possible. info@southwestcustomrods.com
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If its like the Penn trolling rod I just redid for a customer, it was a total nitemare. The entire rod was sealed, not just the guides. I finally ended up totally stripping the whole rod, and since it was a trolling blank with just short areas between the guides, I completely resealed the complete rod and had some graphics between the first two rollers, so did not come out bad at all. I wanted
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There is no actual reason or advantage to use it, makes it absolutly unnecessary.
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I have never build on a Batson blank that I did not like yet. My biggest problem is that when I build something new for a client, I think Hmmm I need to build one of these for myself, fortunately I am most of the time able to refrain myself, or I would have to build another room just to keep my personal rods in.
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Dan Craft Signature V is one choice.
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I would use a Batson RCLB70L it will work very well for both live bait and iron
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It is actually my go to finish, even though i have most of the other brands. It seems to work the best for me. But finishes are like cars, everyone has their own preference and what works best for them.
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You do it in your control center, or you can send it to me at info@southwestcustomrods.com
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Steve unhide you email
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Ed! Unhide your email. whoops, ment Steve
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I have had them used in as little as 72 hours after final application with no adverse effect, but I do perfer a minimum of 5 days whenever possible.
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Works just fine for me also.
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I would never go any bigger than a 10 on a 4wt build either. Only time I use a 16, is on my 7/8 or bigger builds.
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Thats definitely one simple solution.
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I actually have mine wrapped on a copeing saw that I removed the blade from, works great, and no mishaps or safety issues.
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Boy, that woulda been awkward, get there, go to the show-----and NO SHOW-----oops. Don't feel bad, I did it at one of my drag races, fortunately I only had to pull 240 miles round trip and waste some gas, only to have to turn around and go back the next week, because I had already paid my pre-entry fee.
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If you're in heavier cover, definitely go with the 844
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I would probably go with the 843, it is the closest match to your broken one, although if you want or are going to be using anything heavier in the future, then step up to the 844
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I second the Batson blanks, they have a very wide variety and the areexcellent to fish with.
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If it is an inletted grip for the reel seat, that is going to somewhat stabilize the butt end of the cork , so with some spaced tape or any other you choose to use, you should be just fine. 1/4 inch tape spaced no further than 1/2 " apart with an adequate amount of epoxy should do the trick. there isn't too much concern with the cork cracking there because the flex there is very minimal.
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One question, with absolutely no deliberation on it. Have you already used it?
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I always just use thread to cut mine, as I don't like any kind of saw blade or aggressive metal getting close to or touching my mandrels
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I also do it the same way Bill does.
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Well I'll have to regroup since it is all aluminum. My bad.
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It sounds like he was trying to finish it after it was already installed and trying to keep the finish our of the receiving end of the reel seat. First one I ever did, I did that way and the finish filled it up and reel would not go in.
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I also do mine just about the same way Justin does his, I do not like glueing on the blank and then do the shaping.
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