What you have to do is turn the insert a bit smaller to accomadate for the extra thickness of the finish and then go ahead and assemble it after it is really dry.
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If you pre-drill the inserts with a drill press and a jig, you will not need a 4-jaw chuck, but if you plan on drilling them on the lathe, unless they are already round you will need a 4 jaw chuck, preferably a self centering unit. At the present I do not have one but I wish I did, but so far the cose of the one I want has prevented this.
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Seems to me that could lead to cork breakout without any support between the rings, but I have never tried it though.
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I always use Titebond III unless I am using foam inserts, then I use 15 min Rod Bond just on the foam inserts and Titebond on the rest
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I use a "Crafty's Cutter" great tool.
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I always turn my grips with an arbor on the lathe, then ream to get the proper spacing and fit as to where the grip is to be placed. I am not set up to turn the cork when it is installed on the blank, unless I use my power wrapper, and that ain't never gonna happen, don't want a particles flying around in the room where I do my wraping and finishing.
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Boy you hit the nail on the head with that one.
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You most certainly can, I have done it before.
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Ken how do you neck down the arbor size difference between the two wheels?
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There are still a lot of unknown factors around this. Possibility of overlining? Type of fishing you are going to do etc. All of my build s 7wt and over start with a 16 and then 12 double foot guides, and the majority are built using single foot ceramics, but when using either SF or DF wire snakes, it makes a difference if you are using lite or heavy wire.
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A lot of said problems are just the gross lack of communication has been my experience. Any issues I have ever had with any of my suppliers (I might add also very very few) have always been resolved very satisfactorly.
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Not unless you've got some problems with the first coat, or have waited an excessive amout of time between the first & second coat.
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Those are basically the same as the perfection guides that I used for years, have no problem with them, just that I shy away from the carbaloy style for the above noted reasons.
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I believe india ink will also do the job.
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The biggest problem and the reason I did not recommend to Carmet or Carbide style guides is that they are harder, but susceptale to breaking if struck very hard. Also the 2 dis-similar metals are harder to get a good bond when silver soldering them. Do not get me wrong, many of my offshore rods have the carbaloy tips on them for durability, but the attaching points are more than just on each si
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I always go with a 16 on any of the rods I build that are 7wt or heavier.
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That would be the ones
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I have never had a guide failure on any of my salt water rods using the stainless guides. Some of the rods are over 25 years old, but I do take very good care and handling of them.
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Just a suggestion, and don't know if it is fesable or not, but what if you covered the knot with a small piece of heat shrink tube to ease the transition thru the guides. Just favor the copper with the heat and use a very low heat to shrink.
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The Batson RX7 is not bad on price and a pretty decent blank. its a med fast blank and weighs in @ 1.96oz
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Mine is set up on a timer and I set it in the evening before I hit the sack for 3-31/2 hours when I get up its usually dry to a lite touch and I just let be for another 4 or 5 hours. The room temp is set at 72 in the winter and 78 in the summer.
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I always use "A" for my underwraps and have never found it to be necessary to apply any finish to it. I rarely use size "D" for my overwraps, as I still have a fairly ample supply of "C" left, but when that subsides, my overwraps will be done with "A". I just don't like the appearence of the size "D" thread, but thats just on of my quirks.
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I don't think I would be confortable with the metal shavings from the guide feet being so close to where I do my wrapping, no matter how small the particles may be
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I rarely wrap with anything other than NCP thread and have never found any issues all the way from my 2wt's to my unlimited trolling rods.
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I don't usually use anything larger tha a 25 on a rod that size, even smaller if possible.
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lee smith Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I know this being your first, you really want to > get it done and get it done NOW! Been there, done > that!! > > My thought is leave it alone, 70 degree room and > let her spin. Hurrying a "custom" job is not the > way to go. It will be great and you will > definately smile
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I say don't even try it, but others may chime in with options.
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As soon as I read this I tried some CLR and it worked pretty good.
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Jeff! Not a problem, always glad to help out if I can, as well as are a lot of other fine folks on this forum.
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Mudhole does sell AT wrappers without the separate stand alone dryer, below is the model I have. Model No: PBWD-COMBO15 is the pn with the upgraded chuck, which is a must have in IMO
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