The pigment from a settled jar of Testors will work but straight powder pigments like TAP are probably better. ...............
Forum: rodboard

In fact, I think what you are more likely to have heard is that the first 180 degree guide should be placed so that it is behind the point where the blank stops flexing under full load. Again, this is only as important as you want to make it. The idea is that all the major force on the blank and the guides will be done with all the guides completely under the rod this way. But it's not absolute
Forum: rodboard

You would be unlikely to ever get enough pigment in the PG to make it opaque. If you did, you'd have so much in there that you might affect the characteristics of the product. Just a few drops gives a nice tinted, translucent appearance. ...........
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Blank for blank, the rod which is overall lighter would be the more sensitive one. .............
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Using a carbon outer (or inner) sleeve greatly increases the chance of failure. ................
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If you'll apply a thin application of carefully measured and mixed epoxy over what you have now, that should take care of your problem. ............
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A graphite oversleeve is going to create much stiffer section in that area - the sleeve needs to flex with the area around it. Glass may be better. ............
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It adds enough that you can actually feel and easily measure the difference in the speed of many rods. Obviously, using larger thread and heavier applications of finish only make matters worse, but even fine diameter thread and a light finish coat makes a difference you can feel on many lighter rods. .............
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I believe Sabre was eventually bought by Pflueger and then bought by Seeker. At least their patterns and models. California Tackle was at the forefront of the fast taper tuna rod craze, although I suppose the Fenwick Tuna-Sticks and Pacific Stick Royales were the very first of that type. .............
Forum: rodboard

You know, you can make your own graphite tubing with the carbon skinning technique outlined in RodMaker. Several guys are currently making their own TN handle tubes. I make carbon tubes for use as seat inserts and blank extensions. It's very quick and easy to do and you can custom build the wall thickness and diameter you want. ................
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You can't break what isn't there. In general, seats don't need to be strong - they only need to hold the reel. But there are some differences in the criteria necessary for seats on light freshwater rods and much heavier saltwater rods. Many saltwater reels require a solid surface in order to use their reel foot clamps. I wouldn't advise running such a thing up on the blank itself. And then y
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I have used it for inlays, not for entire trim wraps. It looks great, but is somewhat difficult to do as the ends must be flattened to make it lie neatly under the thread. ...........
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To get the same height, you'd have to use larger rings. .............
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One big difference - reels are far more difficult to damage. Rods are easily broken. ..............
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Lure weight ratings and blank power ratings are not quite the same. The power usually identifies the amount of overall power or stiffness in the blank, not the lure casting weight. Many blanks do, in fact, come with the power rating you ask for - the last number of the model number is the power rating. For instance, SJ722 is a Spin Jig blank, 72 inches in length and having a relative power
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First of all, you don't need more than 3 sizes of guides on a rod. What you have there is superfluous. Not needed. If 3's are used in that line up then you can omit the 4's and the 5. They 're not needed and do nothing but add additional weight. Use 3's in those positions instead. If you want to add a tamer guide, put a size 10 about 4 inches beyond the 12, leaving the rest in the standard pos
Forum: rodboard

Any guide that far beyond the stripping guide is going to be the standard 2nd guide, not a line tamer guide. How well a tamer guide works depends on the line, not the rod. Softer more supple lines benefit more than stiffer lines, which don't tend to overshoot the 2nd guide. .......................
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Whether you use inches or metric makes no difference, it is 27X the diameter. ...............
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The type of guides you use has nothing to do with the New Guide Concept. It has to do with the line path and the height and size of the guides that allow you to achieve that path. Whether they are wire or ceramic has nothing to do with it. ................
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The tamer should be about 1 size smaller than the stripping guide and about 3.5 to 4 inches beyond it. ...............
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Since the rest of your guide layout is unaffected by a "tamer" guide, set it up as normal and then test cast it with and without the tamer. The spacing for the rest of guides does not change if you add it, or leave it out, so why not give it a try? ...........................
Forum: rodboard

I will assume you have not read the article nor viewed the photographs in Volume 10 #4. The choker guide is the first running guide. It is the smallest and lowest sized guide (along with the rest of the running guides) on the rod. .........
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I believe they said this year would be $84. There are several other hotels in the downtown area as well and they are listed on the official event website at www.rodexpo.com. .............
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Use a sharp single edge razor blade to shave the finish and wrap off the top of the guide foot. Do not cut into the rod blank. Peel the thread off and remove the guide. Any remaining finish can be popped off with a fingernail. Slight heat from a hair dryer may be helpful. This is fully covered on the FAQs page here. ..............
Forum: rodboard

27X isn't a rule - it's a factor based on the optimum location for the choke guide on over 100 set ups that were hand tweaked by trial and error. If you use this you'll have a choker location that will work for nearly any reel on any rod and will not only put you in the ballpark, but just about on home base for most set ups. You can read more about it in the Volume 10 #4 issue of RodMaker.
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Taper is built in - it is the difference in diameter between the tip and the butt. In general, the taper plays the largest role in determining the action - how the blank is going to flex. Action does not change with the addition of weight - the rod will flex in the same way as it did before you added any additional weight. However, the speed of reaction and recovery will slow and the power wil
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Clean the old surface with alcohol. Scuff with fine grey Scotchbrite. Apply new epoxy. ...........
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Replacement blanks are not likely to be offered. ...............
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Even though I've just recently announced the dates for the Expo, about a full third of the booths are already sold. This weekend has brought in a good number of vendors all vying for the coveted corner locations. As usual, Batson Enterprises was first in line to purchase booth space (4 booths) and anyone that has attended past Expos is aware of the high quality of their exhibit. The Best Wes
Forum: rodboard

The longer length certainly has something to do with it - you have more mass in motion further from your point of effort. If a heavier lure casts "like a rocket" then you aren't likely using the optimum amount of casting weight on it. There is a range of weight any rod will cast provided the angler adjusts his effort, but there is also a sweet spot where maximum distance is achieved
Forum: rodboard