The printed versions look very good, but they don't have the sparkle of the real thing. You can print on the holoshine decal paper, but then you almost have too much sparkle and color in places where there shouldn't be any. I small round tip brush will allow you to get finish in-between the legs of a snake guide. Start at the tip so the finish will be as thin as possible and aid you on those
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On a baitcasting rod, you'll get your straightest and smoothest line path, along with the least amount of weight, using just a couple of sizes of guides. .............
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David, Before you get rid of your Sage, try uplining it by 2 or even 3 line sizes - it will then start to feel much more like bamboo. ..................
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Start with the glossary here on this site. Then try one of the rod building books out there that have chapters on blank manufacturing. ...................
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A soft tip, in relation to the rest of the rod, would indicate a fast action. A slow tip would indicate the opposite. Keep in mind that most fishermen, even the so called "pros" don't know the proper terminology for describing fishing rods. They often confuse action with power and vice versa. Even some of the low end manufacturers don't label rods according to industry definitions. How
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They compare nicely. It all depends on the particular taper and feel you prefer, but in terms of performance and quality the RX8 certainly do not take a back seat to either of those you mention. Some even like them better. ..............
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Yes. ..............
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Try this: wcason264@comcast.net ............
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Look below for his name on a post or do a search and then click on his name - his email address will come right up. ............
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They don't have a website, yet. You can contact Bill Cason for more information on his new color preservers. ..............
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"Joe Hall" appears to be an alias used by a builder who was banned here last year. .............
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The reason they can't ship for free even on a $100 sale is that there isn't enough margin in a $100 sale these days to cover the shipping of a rod blank. I know several people that have gotten into the component business in the few years and most have had a somewhat sour awakening as to what the component business is really like these days. It is not a lucrative business in any way, shape or fo
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Make the marks on a length of white thread. Tape it in place, one one top, one on bottom. Make your first few passes and once you have things locked down, snip the alignment threads and simply pull them out from under your cross wrap threads. ..................
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That is correct. Dealers are selling more product than ever, but making less money than ever before. Nobody pays retail, except for a very few items. You may not be buying wholesale, but you're not paying retail. Few dealers can charge retail and stay in business. Most everything now sells at a substantial discount. ..............
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Warming the epoxy will make it more thinner and more manageable, but will reduce the available working time. ..................
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Last week, Eugene Moore prepared a spreadsheet of the expanded Common Cents System chart. A board participant by the name of "Joe Hall" offered to send it to any interested parties. Subsequently, at least 2 users here have reported to me that opening the file which he sent has damaged the contents of their computer. If you received anything from "Joe Hall," do not open it. The
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The first thing that would happen is that it would become a foot and half shorter. Even on a long fly rod that would make one whale of a difference. The action would become much slower, you'd lose a good deal of whatever power the blank had and you'd have unequal length sections, if that matters to you. Whether or not it would still be usable for your intended purpose I can't say. I do know
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The D thread didn't really cure anything other than making the cracking harder to see. It may reduce this problem a little, but it won't eliminate it. A stiff guide foot on a flexible rod blank causes the cracking as the guide resists the blank's attempt to flex it under the clamp of the thread. The thread is the weak link in the chain and when it stretches a small crack or check will appear in
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Almost everything in the rod building business is discounted these days - dealer margins are far, far less than at any time in rod building history. You're just looking at the normal inflation which has occurred in the 25 years you've been away from the craft. There are plenty of reasonably priced rod kits and related components for use in classes. Spend a little time looking at the websites
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They're all in a big box in a tangled mess. But I had planned to bring some for any that had use for the dead bodies. ................
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Some of the professional type chips are made from a type of clay. It's the home or hobby chips that tend be more plastic. ...............
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Rodmaker Volume 10 #3 covered this item in depth. RodMaker Volume 12 #5 had instructions on how to turn an oval, rather than round, grip. In some situations there is an advantage with something other than a round grip. If it allows you to exert more force against twist, with less effort, then it can be worthwhile. As far as things like finger swells or cuts, many fishermen report them feel
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This may be a dumb question on my part but, is the poker chip flat or shaped in some way (indented, etc.)? ...............
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Except that I put the answers on page 36 instead of 34 as the article stated. Oh well, I hope most found it. ...........
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The adhesive didn't fail - the bond did. Never rough up the surfaces beyond a good scouring/deglossing. Deep scratches and grooves actually weaken the bond. Clean and then scour with Scotchbrite. Some plastics are difficult to bond to. Hard plastic chips aren't generally one of those, however. When side of the adhesive is not bonding - the side to the aluminum or the side to the plastic?
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The pieces of the puzzle are in front of you. If you read the article you should be able to easily piece them together. If you take a sound rod blank and simply high stick it until it breaks (harder to do than you might imagine), the break will not exhibit much in the way of splintering. It will more closely resemble that of a standard overload failure, appearing mostly clean albeit with some
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It's being delivered to most right now - holiday mail slows things a little. Once I get the newest issue finished up, I may consider taking the above idea and creating some sort of single page "quick start" guide or something with the basic photos and causes of breakage. I'd have to leave out all the background information but you already have that in the article. I'll kick it around
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By hand, turning a full 180 degrees only when needed. ..............
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Fenwick has not made any blanks for themselves in over 20 years now. They are part of the former Pure Fishing corporation and their blanks are made in the orient. ...........
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There will be a company at the Expo unveiling a UV activated finish. To my knowledge the product itself has not yet been released. It will debut at the Expo. RodMaker Magazine reviewed a similar product about 10 or 11 years ago. It required a light cabinet and while it worked very well, the finish was extremely brittle and more than a little brown. The Diamondite product was heat activate
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