Im not sure how to tell what is factory loaded and what isnt.
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Yes Gudebrod is the brand I think it is very possible someone is respooling them and I also believe they may be putting a different products on the spool than stated IE boot legging.
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I have limtied expirience but fish hawk metalics are kick butt for me they dont have the foil unwinding issues or freakish problems from spool to spool. I have seen this in some other brands metalics.
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Phil Richmond Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Played with making some carbon grips, but the > material I have has sat for long enough the fold > creases in the side don't seem to want to work out > no matter how hard I try. Any tips? > > Thanks. > Phil This doesnt sound right, they spend their life wrapped around a spool creased
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How about practicing on something a few times or as many times as it takes before doing it live on a rod.
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He means while rotateing (spinning\drying) keep turning the thing by hand until it doesnt need to anymore. OR just put it on your turner and not ratate it by hand. Its up to you.
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yep they come off and are interchangable once you figure out how to remove them, like the post above says only thing that holds them in is small ridge but it is surpriseing tough to get them off without some trickery. I swap them out all the time with the pure chrome ones from japan a much nicer look to me. I use a 90 degree pick tool, something like the first three in this in this picture.
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I have been wanting to use that clear UV acrylic spray as a color preserver. If what your saying is true it would work well or would it do the same as finish.
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I guess your talking bass rods.. Thats easy G loomis IMX or GLX the whole MB line. guides fuji, minimum of fuji SIC-stainless. seats fuji. grips cork split grip no foregrip. by the way i dropped a loomis mb 783 IMX and $300 daiwa reel over board in the dark i thought for sure it was lost. The rig floated.. Oh and some very high end cork to go with it.
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If you play with it for 40 min your bound to have problems, that just nuts. It will be thick and have set some what by that time! You want to fool with it while its still flowing and leveling well. Get the excess off right away dont sit there waiting for it to thicken on you. You should put it on make sure its not on to thick and its level throughout the length of the area. Then get it spinn
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Henry Engle Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Tom Slater Wrote: > -------------------------------------------------- > ----- > > also, > > > > with the IPS seats, should i trim exess thread > > from where i need to unwind the KDPS to fit my > > reel foot? if so how many threads should i have > > past the point
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Tom Slater Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > also, > > with the IPS seats, should i trim exess thread > from where i need to unwind the KDPS to fit my > reel foot? if so how many threads should i have > past the point that i can fit my reel? There is no way anyone can tell you this no one knows every reel foot length. mount you reel an
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Tom Slater Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > hmm, i would like to try and avoid ordering yet > another piece if i can prevent it. > > drillbits would tear it up i think, reverse spade > bit sounds like a possibility. > > any other ideas? Im not sure about the matagi stuff but every eva I try to do high speed tool work on breaks dow
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i would imagine if you wanted a motor that spins at 200 rpm a gear motor would do the trick google that or gearmotor 200 rpm or gear motor 200 rpm
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Wow I dont think any of the normal methods will be able to make that hole for the KDPS maybe the reverse spade bit will work since the matagi eva is of the harder type but I have my doubts that wall is going to be very thin but who knows.. What would be the easiest is to order a piece already made for the KDPS with the hole in the center already from matagi and reshape it. If it were cork its alo
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wet it with a drop of water and look at it. If it turns clear then another coat will make it look righ again.
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finally more and better seat options, thank you Swampland for bringing these to the custom builder.
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So far all the light brands I have tried level very well I dont think they could do othrwise since they are so thin. The thick versions is where most will run into problems they hold bubbles longer and sometimes will not release, will lump and bump and do all kinds of funny stuff if the user applies it incorrectly. One thing I can tell you of the heavies Flex Coat heavy is one of the best for sel
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Mick McComesky Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > A video to correct bubble trouble is not a bad > idea. But teaching folks how to not have bubbles > in the first place might be better. And really, > the only way to get a good finish is practice. I kinda ment a video to show how to put on finish peroid. The normal way of putting it on. Heat is
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My $100 home depot wet saw cuts everything so nice and clean (diamond blade). I would think not everyone has access to one though but its most likly is the best way to cut just about anything that needs to look good and be done quickly.
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I wonder if madeira and the like that fish eye could be cleaned some how of the silicone that casues the problem. doubtful but its a thought.
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I was leaveing the bearing in the cup while I applied my finish pehaps it has to do with that helping to keep it cooler for longer pot life or could be a more thorough mixxing? I also believe there is less chance of the finish not cureing correctly do to poor or lazy hand mixing procedures using this machine also. Anyway i love mine!
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Hi Bob, What I believe happens is over heating the product just makes it thin out so much the air is able to escape fast since bubbles always want to move towards the upper surface. Since it gets so thin they just rise instantly to the top and pop away. When playing around with all these finishes I mixed in tons of bubbles just for the fun of it, the extra heat will get ride of them all ins
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I found I can put the flame right on the darn finish for a second movign it up and down nothing happens. deep and any and all bubbles pop instantly, the finish smokes for a second even, still cures and drys nice, turns as thin as water and will drip. Also levels and pentrates instantly. It feels a little more than luke warm when touched with the finger surprisingly when at the stage it just drips
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I think I have said this in 3 threads already. Just cut it with ahack saw or something that makes a nice edge then just sand it straight and smooth it will look like a machine cut it.
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yup pac bay's looks like orange to me too.
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After I lost a few wraps due to the slip (blade slipped and thread slip LOL) thing. I just put on a very light coat of finish, let it dry before I cut anything and not worry about the threads coming undone anymore.
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I use both but that rod was done with a brush. I buy these 12 for a dollar brushes from five and dime store. They are similar to the ones flex coat makes.
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Hi Tom, No its an epoxy resin. I remember reading that epoxy type was stronger and just plain better so I looked for that. I may be overly sensitive to chemical oders i find Thread Master to give off a good amount of oder, I need at least a little ventilation when using it. Not that I get a sore throat or lung irritation from it but prolonged exposure to I can smell is most likly not a goo
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I have a pacbay dryer modified with a seperate motor and a belt. I pop the belt and turn it by hand for ultimate control. I have found on butt wraps having the rod turning and trying to put on finish is the worst thing. Since it should be spread on length wise, I got used to turning it by hand and ended up putting on all my finish this way now. This method works really well in conjunction with a
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