I am having trouble removing the bubbles little thread tags after I apply the finish. I have been using an alcohol torch to heat the bubbles out and to burn off the tag ends, but I seem to always singe my finish and threads and I cant seem to figure out what I am doing wrong. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.

If a thread tag is sticking out try to alter the way you cut it off. Use a sharp scalpel ,pull the tag a little to streatch it a little and cut it off. Burnish the threads and it will be gone. If you do get one apply finish and then after it sets up cut it out with a sharp scalpel or blade and apply a second coat of finish and it will not be detectable. Too much heat will cause bubbles also so be very careful. If your hand cannot handle the amount of heat it is too hot for finish.

Freddwhy (Rapt-Ryte)

If you have tags that stand up after the finish is applied, let the finish cure then cut off with a razor blade. As for the bubbles, what kind are they, micro or trapped air bubbles. I have found that most bubbles come from the mixing process, if these are trapped air bubbles then lose the alcohol torch, and use a heat gun.

We had a pictorial in a past issue of RodMaker that showed how to cut that tag end without leaving any trace of a nub. I can't really explain it quickly enough with the photos from the magazine, however. Sorry.

When apply heat from a lighter or alcohol lamp, you would never let the flame get near the finish or the wrap. Keep it under the wrap by 3 to 4 inches and rotate the rod while gently waving the flame under there. Just a very, very few seconds is enough. All you're doing is causing the bubbles to expland and momentarily thinning the finish so they can rise and escape. If you're singing or sooting the finish, you're too close with the flame or heating for too long.

I like what Fred said about too much heat for your hand is also too much heat for your finish. A gentle warming is all you're really trying to do.

Singing a thread nub on naked thread is best done from the side. Keep the flame to the side, not underneath and make a quick pass along the wrap.

...................

Tim was typing the same time I was - his tip on just slicing off the finished nubs with a razor blade is a good one. Sometimes you don't even need to recoat - just slice/trim and go. It barely leaves more than a tiny, tiny speck if you're careful.

..............

Good Morning Justin,
It is possible to eliminate the need for any nub of thread on your wrap. Insert your tie off loop a few threads earlier than normal and then when you cut the wrap thread to insert through the tie off loop, you can pull gently until the loop id just under the end of the wrap. Now cut the tag end thread as close to the end of the wrap as possible. Now when you pull the loop through the tag end will be buried under the wrap and you will not need to cut any tag end or have any nubs. I believe this method was outlined in Dale Clemens' book on Adavanced Rod Building. It is much more difficult to use on very thin trim wraps. I hope this helps.

Mike Blomme

Go with Michael With nibs. As for breaking bubbles. I fold my mixture, never whip while mixing., next I let it set in a alunium pan and gently breath on it, tell bubbles are gone. As for heat I use a butane torch (Blue Flame). I place my hand in front of the flame. If I can burn my self I am too close. I just want the heat to warm my hand, this is the distance I keep the flame from the finish. I heat the finish just below the center line. Keep the flame moveing at all times. Keep an eye on the bottom of the finish you well notice a build up of finish. Using a brush wike off the excess. You well find that with parctice you can cut a nice smooth transition line from rod to thread.
Good Wraps Bob

I was under the impression that CO2 from breath or flame was what popped the bubbles in epoxy not the heat. Any truth to this?

Scott, thinner finish release's bubble's easier, warming the finish allows them to release by thinning the product temporarily......not sure on the CO2 part.....

DR

Scott in most cases heat well help break bubbles as well as heat. Flex Coat works well doing this. You can add a couple of drop of Acetone to a 2 0Z mix this well thin it. Down side is it well take longer to set up. I was told this by Flex Coat. What I would do is call the manufacture of the product. U 40 does not recommend heat or Acetone
Good Wraps Bob

Scott, Ralph O`Quinn suggests the breathing part. You are correct about the CO2 (at least according to Ralph and I never doubt the man, he has experience).

Freddwhy (Rapt-Ryte)

When all my epoxy is on, I use a 14oz. propane torch with a large BLUE flame. This should produce lots of CO2. Never under the turning rod. Always to the side; about 10 inches away. ALSO, I
hold my other hand behind the rod so I can sense the heat; and direct the flame towards
the rod; and not too close. I'm scared of too much heat; just enough to keep the epoxy
a little thin for a minute or two; and also to allow any bubbles to expand. (and pop
hopefully). . . . I keep the flame in CONTINUOUS MOTION from one end to the other. On a
7 ft. rod may be in about 60 sec., end to end. { sometimes the epoxy seems to take on a
better shine; but that may depend on lunch - - - - liquid or solid }

I do mine just about like Jack
Good Wraps Bob

I found I can put the flame right on the darn finish for a second movign it up and down nothing happens. deep and any and all bubbles pop instantly, the finish smokes for a second even, still cures and drys nice, turns as thin as water and will drip. Also levels and pentrates instantly. It feels a little more than luke warm when touched with the finger surprisingly when at the stage it just drips. I have done alot of experimenting with finish as you can see. I tried this with flex coat heavy/light threadmaster heavy/light and aftco.

Henry I may be wrong, but does not Flex Coat (heavy/light), ThreadMaster (heavy/light) and Aftco have the same type of chemical components that well allow their mixture to release gas bubbles when exposed to CO2 or heat. I believe this is adherent in most epoxy finishes formulas. I am not a chemist. I wish Ralph, Andy or Flex Coat would chime in to explain their products characteristics.
Good Wraps Bob

Hi Bob,

What I believe happens is over heating the product just makes it thin out so much the air is able to escape fast since bubbles always want to move towards the upper surface. Since it gets so thin they just rise instantly to the top and pop away.

When playing around with all these finishes I mixed in tons of bubbles just for the fun of it, the extra heat will get ride of them all instantly. Maybe hundreds of them. The heat/flame whatever seems to have no ill effects on the finish curing or its performance later on. In fact they seem to look better since they leveled out so much like water. It will get rid of every bump lump and what ever other thing you can think of a thick finish will end up doing. I wish had more money to play with them all but alas just the five I listed above cost me around $100.

Aftco and threadmaster respond very well to heat. You can do it with the flex coat but it seems flex coat will start to cure very quickly with alot of heat and not thin as much as the others. I can keep reheating the aft and TM over and over and it will keep thining.

None of this is advisable but you can really do some neat things with the finish once they thin out real good.

I was thinking of doing a free web video on applying finish on long wraps and guides since Ive only seen one and it didnt look very helpful. I think its the most problemmatic thing for the new rod builder. In the video I was going to show what heat does and what not to help repair finish if needed something really comprehensive.

maybe in the future who knows.

Henry I agree I use heat all the time. I also think it give the finish a glosser look I think that type of vido would be great for a newbie.
Good Weaps Bob

I've done similar tests as Henry and have come to many of the same conclusions. (Good on ya, Henry, experimenting can be expensive, but quite fun, even if nobody puts much stock into the results). I've BBQ'D many a wrap with decent results, but I have to say that I have concerns over the long term effects. I don't use flame on a customer's rod, only my own to see if there is a degradation. I've nuked many a wrap to watch the finish nearly evaporate in a billow of smoke while turning into water but in the end product it resulted in a lot more work for a bubble free finish than if I'd just left it alone in the first place, without the worry of chemical change.

A video to correct bubble trouble is not a bad idea. But teaching folks how to not have bubbles in the first place might be better. And really, the only way to get a good finish is practice.

Mick McComesky Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------

> A video to correct bubble trouble is not a bad
> idea. But teaching folks how to not have bubbles
> in the first place might be better. And really,
> the only way to get a good finish is practice.

I kinda ment a video to show how to put on finish peroid. The normal way of putting it on. Heat is not normally needed. Then go into more advanced stuff like using heat to repair things like a piece of lint or all the other mishaps that can happen, stuburn bubbles that wont release. etc etc. I have never seen a good video or a tutorial online that goes into any detail with this. Tools, tips, sanding, types,brands all the different ways to put it on I could go on and on.

I've experimented with all techniques, and found gently blowing on the surface through a soda straw is by far the most effective. It directs the stream of air with more force, and bubbles disappear. I use a flexy straw so that my eyes are far enough away from the surface, and I can watch the bubbles. After all looks clear, I let it sit on the dryer for 5 minutes, blow on it again, and a few more that I could not see come up and pop. After that, I will gently warm the surface with a butane flame. I use LS Supreme, and have found a flawless finish using this technique. Not sure if it would work as well with other epoxies. Get a soda straw and try. It was the single best tip I got for a smooth, bubble-free finish.