Hey Guys

Im Finally onto my build after having troubles with getting parts etc etc, ended up ordering everything from Mamoru at Matagi and i am very happy i changed :) The Foam i asked about in a previous thread was exactly what i was looking for.

anywho onto the question. I have got some of the EBL foam pieces from matagi and i want to customize them slightly.

Firstly, i want to bore one out to fit over a KDPS hood. how would i go about doing this cleanly? as it needs to be bored right to the edge of the curve it will be very thin at the ends thus precision is needed here.

Secondly, i want to use the other as a butt piece and install a metal butt cap over the hole in the piece. How would i go about attaching the Metal cap which just has a pin coming out of the middle of the underside? would i install a plug into the piece then drill small hole to snugly fit butt cap and glue?

and is araldite adhesive alright to use on these procedures and is it alright to use to glue the grip onto an IPS seat?
Thanks for the help

Wow I dont think any of the normal methods will be able to make that hole for the KDPS maybe the reverse spade bit will work since the matagi eva is of the harder type but I have my doubts that wall is going to be very thin but who knows.. What would be the easiest is to order a piece already made for the KDPS with the hole in the center already from matagi and reshape it. If it were cork its alot easier to make that hole.

Im not to picture what your trying to do with the butt cap but rod bond will pretty much hold any metal part to eva very well with minimal surface area needed to get a good long lasting hold. Matter of fact rod bond for everything you mentioned to hold with glue sorry I dont know what that other adhesive is.

depending on what shape your after, i use the pro molded EVA from Frogleys made for the KN hoods and re model them for my needs. alt. i use a standard section of tube EVA slighly smaller in internal diamiter than the hood. glue it on with 24 hour aryldite, and set. then i have a pre made jig set up on my lathe and turn any shape i want ising 80-120 grit Silcon paper.

if you need anything visually in the way of pointers drop me an email and i can take some pics for you...

Cheers Perrie

HOTRODS - Perrie Thomas Custom Rods
[www.perrieshotrods.com]

hmm, i would like to try and avoid ordering yet another piece if i can prevent it.

drillbits would tear it up i think, reverse spade bit sounds like a possibility.

any other ideas?

also,

with the IPS seats, should i trim exess thread from where i need to unwind the KDPS to fit my reel foot? if so how many threads should i have past the point that i can fit my reel?

Tom Slater Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> hmm, i would like to try and avoid ordering yet
> another piece if i can prevent it.
>
> drillbits would tear it up i think, reverse spade
> bit sounds like a possibility.
>
> any other ideas?

Im not sure about the matagi stuff but every eva I try to do high speed tool work on breaks down and becomes alot softer than it originally was. I always thought it was the friction\heat that casue this im not sure. As thin as those walls will become I would think they are going to colaspe and disform under the torqe the spade bit spinnig if the heat thing occurs. Im sorry I have never tried to do this before with EVA. Like I said the reverse bit I made from following a rodmaker article worked very well with cork.

Heres a tip to keep the walls as thick as possible for the initial KDPS hole drilling do not shape the EVA first leave it as it is make the hole then shape it. Thsi is how I was able to shape it.

I made an arbor out of wood with hole saw by using the left over plug a hole saw naturally leaves behind. The plug is a perfect tool with a 1/4" hole perfectly centered to mount to a 1/4" bolt with a nut to keep the plug from spinning. Just slip your KDPS piece over it to be shaped onto your drill or lathe and you can shape away. I can find the tool i made jsut for this ill take a picture.

Tom Slater Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> also,
>
> with the IPS seats, should i trim exess thread
> from where i need to unwind the KDPS to fit my
> reel foot? if so how many threads should i have
> past the point that i can fit my reel?


There is no way anyone can tell you this no one knows every reel foot length. mount you reel and figure it out. This is the way I did mine.

In the picture you can see the KDPS hood scewed down but when my reel is mounted the threads end up right in the middle of of that KDPS. BTW I hope you bought that ring I have pictured in the nose its made just for this appplication and it needs to be oversized to be able to side past blank/thread/finish as the kdps moves up and down.

[i208.photobucket.com]

In this pciture you can see where my thread ended up when this particular reel is moutned to it. That is not the reel I normally have mount of this rod. So the kpds hood ends up a little higher hiding a bit mroe thread with the other reel i use.

[i208.photobucket.com]

good luck with your project.



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 04/07/2008 11:16PM by Henry Engle.

in my post i did not say where i should cut it back to i said how many of the threads should i leave. so for example if my reel needs 5 of the threads to fit in then should i cut it down to say 8 threads to have 3 past the point that i need to unwind it for my reel to fit in.

with the EVA, could i do something liek this?

get the KDPS nut, and sharpen the edge of the 'tube' i spose youd call it (the piece you mount yoru grip on) and use that to cut a nice circular slit into the EVA then remove the excess foam somehow and glue into place.

i have done that before now that you mention it but i used a sharpened section of metal pipe and did it by hand...oh the memories ! that was YEARS ago !!! lol

as for cutting the thread, i personally would leave about a centermeter JUST in case you change reels for some reason inthe future and it has a longer foot

HOTRODS - Perrie Thomas Custom Rods
[www.perrieshotrods.com]

hmm sounds like thats the go then. i might try it tonight.

yeah i thought about 1cm would be ideal.

Thanks Perrie!

haha i see your on BM and AusBream aswell

im EVERYWHERE !!! lol

whats your handle on the sites ???

HOTRODS - Perrie Thomas Custom Rods
[www.perrieshotrods.com]

haha im fishyman on both.

on a side note, i found some cork in the rodmaking box. is their any different techniques for boring out cork. i think a handle involving both cork and eva would be nice.

DREMEL !!!

and ahhhh that explains a few similarities i have notices in questions being posted !!! gonna stalk ya now ! lol

hmm dremel aye, might have to get one.

Thanks mate much appreciated

just out of interest...all those builders watching along...hands up who Doesnt have a Dremel or similar tool ???

got mine on 99' and have without a doubt used it EVERY day in some facet of rod building

HOTRODS - Perrie Thomas Custom Rods
[www.perrieshotrods.com]

Henry Engle Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Tom Slater Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > also,
> >
> > with the IPS seats, should i trim exess thread
> > from where i need to unwind the KDPS to fit my
> > reel foot? if so how many threads should i have
> > past the point that i can fit my reel?
>
>
> There is no way anyone can tell you this no one
> knows every reel foot length. mount you reel and
> figure it out. This is the way I did mine.
>
> In the picture you can see the KDPS hood scewed
> down but when my reel is mounted the threads end
> up right in the middle of of that KDPS. BTW I hope
> you bought that ring I have pictured in the nose
> its made just for this appplication and it needs
> to be oversized to be able to side past
> blank/thread/finish as the kdps moves up and down.
>
>
> [i208.photobucket.com]
>
>
> In this pciture you can see where my thread ended
> up when this particular reel is moutned to it.
> That is not the reel I normally have mount of this
> rod. So the kpds hood ends up a little higher
> hiding a bit mroe thread with the other reel i
> use.
>
> [i208.photobucket.com]
>
>
> good luck with your project.

Ahh geez when you said threads i was thinking you ment the kind that comes off a spool LOL. Sorry!

I remove enough off them to make sure that it does not end up hitting the top inside of the foregrip but from what i can remember they dont need to be cut at all other than for that reason. When a reel is mounted there is sufficient space for that not to happen but if you were to sell that rod a user may try and tighten it without a reel on for some reason that could cause the force of the threads hitting to break the forgrip of pop something off.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/08/2008 05:41AM by Henry Engle.

I'll throw this into the mix - A piece of brass tubing spun in a hand drill, will make short work of boring or inletting a piece of EVA. It is somewhat hard to do on a full length bore because you have no way to center the tube. But for inletting a short distance, it works well and very quickly.

This does not work very well on cork. The reverse spade bits are much, much better on cork.

.............

Dremel with the small sanding drums also does a quick job on small inletting. Just watch the speed so you don't take off too much.

As for the reel seat, wind back the hood until the reel foot just fits (if just one reel is going to be fitted to the rod). You only need enough length for engagement of the threads to lock down the reel foot, and as Perrie said space in the KDPS to allow for overtightening if no reel iis on it. Swap the KDPS for a regular locking nut, and wind it on to that point. Cut about 1 cm past the edge of the nut. This should give you enough space to change reels, but also allow you to trim the seat. You could also trim the KDPS sleeve to match it up and make a shorter foregrip.

Hey Tom, how'd you go getting your Stradic back together????? If it ain't broke, don't fix it!! LOL!

sweet thanks everyone for your input its greatly appreciated.


um stradic...............*whistle* its getting serviced lol