Denis, If you want to know what effect the addition of guides has on the power, action or speed of the blank, then run the CCS before and after you build on the blank. That will give you the measurements for those characteristics before and after the additions are made and easily spell out any differences that have occurred. It would be impossible for any manufacturer, any system, etc., to
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Alex, Rob is correct. Loading a rod requires some amount of weight coupled with the angler's input. It makes no difference if that weight comes in the form of a fly line or a spinning lure. They represent the same thing to the rod. The same rods you use for casting lures will also cast lead sinkers, a chunk of bait, a doughball or a cat toy. And none of these requires a different design i
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I use it for all sorts of things, but generally to keep me from wasting money on blanks that aren't in any way suitable for the purpose at hand. I probably have 200 blanks in stock and 150 of them are useless to me. I bought them after studying the manufacturer's specs and taking a guess that they might work. Most didn't, so I turned around and bought more, hoping to hit the right one at some poi
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The numbers would indicate that it is a 12lb class trolling rod. RT stands for Regulation Trolling. The 63 is the length in inches and the 12 is the intended line class. It was intended to be used with a Uni-Butt. .................
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It's worthwhile to consider buying from the sponsors of this website, provided they have the materials you need. Mud Hole is one such sponsor. ................
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Dennis, ERN and AA were always applicable to all blanks, not just fly rods. Fly rods are not built any differently than casting or spinning blanks. They're all just tubular, tapered shafts. The CCS will measure a length of PVC pipe, if you wish. It doesn't differentiate between rod types. If you can support it and obtain the required deflection, the CCS will measure it. There are no numbe
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That's true - thanks for adding it. ...........
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At the end of the day, the solution is simple - if you find the CCS information useful, use it. If not, disregard it. ...............
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For EVA you don't need any release agent. Just shim with tape, spiralled up the mandrel (and back down if required) in order to get it snug enough to turn without slipping. .......................
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I always hope for new vendors, particularly manufacturers, for the Expo each year. It's still very early, but already 3 new ones are on board. Northfork Composites plans to be there. Jon Bial and Garry Loomis will be staffing the booth. Kinnickinck Wood (reelseatblanks.com) is hoping to be there. Steven Kincaid emailed this morning to express his intentions to participate. MidWest Rod an
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Bobby, You seem to be asking the CCS to do things that you are not asking of the other relative systems that we also use for taking blank measurements. It was intended, just like the systems for length and weight, for making overall comparisons. Remember, a tape measure does not tell you how long something is - it only tells you if something is longer or shorter than another item measured with
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Dennis The CCS does not attempt to tell you "how successful the build was" any more than a thermometer attempts to tell you if you need to wear a coat today. Only you can answer that. To try and hammer a nail with a screwdriver and then complain about the tool is wasted effort. All any manufacturer can do when he sells you a blank is give you the specs for that blank. He has no id
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Denis, The CCS and URRS are at the very minimum as helpful as the length and weight measurements of a blank. If you trim the blank, is the length measurement given in the blank specs worthless? What about blank weight? That, too, will change with the building of the rod. No manufacturer can give you length and weight specs for your finished rod - they have no idea if you're going to trim the
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Other than where you hang the reel, there is no difference. A "casting" blank is required to perform the same task as a "spinning" blank. The blank flexes and stores energy, then unflexes and releases energy. That's all it does. They're all just tapered, tubular shafts. As far as the blank is concerned, there is no such thing as "casting" or "spinning."
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If the spacing is elongated, metallic can be tough to work with. Less tension will generally work better than more. If you can incorporate some regular nylon into the pattern in places, it will tend to help hold the metallic in place. ................
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Universal Rod Rating System. It is built on the Common Cents System. The article appeared in a past issue of RodMaker Magazine. By the way, it was recently adopted by a major rod and blank manufacturer for use in their 2010 catalog. I won't spill the beans on that yet, but they've already begun rating their products according to the system. .................
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I would build it with a high frame 16 spinning style guide for the stripper. ............
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For those that aren't aware, Jim's comment about the 27X and the "Improved" system is a bit of a joke - there have been some rod builders who with little to zero knowledge of the system made an incorrect assumption that the 27X factor was for locating the butt guide. Back to Jerry's question - if the rod is so short and the reel so large that 27X puts the choker guide beyond the rod
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If you need another casting rod and the specs on the blank fill your requirements, then go right ahead. The blank doesn't care and will have no way of knowing what type reel you hang on it. ..............
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27X isn't for placement of the butt guide. ......................
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Unless you step on them, you'll have no problems. Graphite rods and modern epoxy or thermoplastic resin systems don't have the tendency to take a set nor the "memory" of older glass and polyester resin systems. .........
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Jason Brunner covered this in his recent article for RodMaker. If glass, never lean the blank or rod against a wall and keep from heat - even that of an attic or car interior in the summertime. Carbon fiber rods are much more hardy, but still try to stand them up as straight as possible, relieve all tension and keep from long periods of attic type heat. .............
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It depends on how well armed that builder is with information about the rod he's been requested to build. Granted, there is no substitute for experience, but at the minimum the builder should have complete and in-depth information on the type rod that's been requested. If he does, then there is a good chance he can build a rod that will satisfy the customer. If not, well... it's a crap shoot.
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Fighting butts on rods of that size aren't really needed for putting into the "belly" - you just need something that will allow him to get the butt of the rod under and against his wrist/forearm. There are seats available that come with fighting butt kits that would allow him to use it now, but go without it later if decides he no longer needs it. Don't go too small on the grip diam
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Yellow or Goldenrod, combined with Garnet and Gold, is a striking combination. ............
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Thompson's Water Seal won't change the color of the cork to any noticeable degree. Many prefer it for that reason. Of course, Cork Seal doesn't really change the color either. ..............
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Moving the butt guide isn't going to affect much in the way of balance. As the rod gets longer, it's going to feel a little tip heavy. All you can do is use the smallest and lightest guides suitable for the task required and keep those wraps short and finish light. I would build the handle length to suit the task needed and let the balance fall where it may. .............
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At some point, you're going to have to sand down past that point to get it to fully seat. If it were me, I'd either get the right sized top or wrap a double foot guide on for a tiptop as we showed in a recent issue of RodMaker, ala Ken Preston. One leg gets folded under and the guide functions nicely as a tiptop and will fit any rod blank. .............
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No, don't reduce the blank tip - there is little margin for error there and you'll wind up with walls that are too thin to do what needs to be done. You can safely remove the paint, but you won't want to get into the fibers there. Order a new tiptop. .............
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I would remove the sacrificial spacing thread first, and then apply the CP. No doubt you can do it prior, but it may cause the top thread to shift or move when you remove the sacrificial thread which can then upset the effect a bit. Inconsistent, non-parallel threads are your friend on the bottom layer, but not on the top. ............
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