Exactly, which would result in an even greater weight savings. I believe they advertise a difference of 25% over the same guides with ceramic rings. Drop down one size and you still have the same effective ring opening and end up with weight savings approaching 50%. That's not insignificant. ............
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If it's a casting/spinning type blank, you can possibly nail down a good lure casting weight with the Common Cents System, or you can just take a guess and go try some different plugs or lures until you find the sweet spot. Line weight is more arbitrary than anything else. It doesn't count for much. .............
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It would certainly cast a 10-weight line but not easily unless you can put a lot of that line past the tip during casting. The length may hamper your ability to do that. ................
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Eventually, you reach a point of diminishing returns. If the minima insert will not groove and is lighter than the ceramic, then we might want to stop short of saying that there are "better" materials. Better in what way? It's always important to use products that will do the job adequately at the bare minimum, but beyond that what are you gaining by using anything more? Vic knows a
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It's still very early, but these are the vendors that have already purchased booth space for the 2010 International Custom Rod Building Exposition. Batson Enterprises/Rainshadow/Forecast/Alps Seeker Rod Company The Skin Shop REC Components Donart MidWest Rod & Reel Scott's Custom Rods/Fishsticks/RodDancer Angler's Roost Enterprises ............... There are three
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Insofar as how they are made, no difference. Some blanks are often listed in both categories. Sometimes a company will specifically design a blank to be used for a particular application, such as casting, but you can use it either way if the specs fill the bill for what you need. A rod blank is a rod blank. It's just a tapered, tubular shaft. ..............
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In an earlier thread I mentioned that I had prepared a set of instructions at the request of Renzetti, Inc. several years ago. I was not aware that they are not including them with the lathes. Anyone that wishes a copy can request one by sending an email to this address: rodmaker@earthlink.ne
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I'd think that most fishermen carry some sort of knife on them or in their tackle. So that should be covered. ............
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Obtain one of the small green plastic waterproof match case tubes from an army/navy or outdoor store. They cost maybe a buck. Cut a short section of hot melt glue and toss in a half dozen short wooden matches. It's small, neat and will get him by in a pinch. Include 2 tiptops - one the same size as what he has and one a full 64th larger. The latter is in case he breaks the rod just below the curr
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The only problem I see with that blank is that it's not really powerful enough to haul large snook. Casting the line will be the easy part - getting the power to handle the snook will be tougher. ..............
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I think you'd be better off just using a very stout bass rod blank in a 6' length. It will easily cast a fly line short distances and would have the power needed to get the fish out quickly. ..............
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There was a lengthy post about the product from someone here awhile back. He reported on his experience with it. You'd have to do a search and try to find it, I can't remember who it was. ................
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Most of the newer bass reels have line guides that do no move. Saltwater models often still do. ..............
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I don't think you'll like the result. The idea behind using the same color in the adhesive as the flock is in the instance that you might end up with any thin or open areas. It would tend to hide what would otherwise be an unsightly area. If you read the article, then you know that once you think you have everything covered, you need to flock some more. Then when you're sure you have everythi
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Weldwood Contact Cement is the product you want. ...........
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I've been tied up with people here the better part of the day. I'll try to do it this evening. .............
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I have them on 2 rods now and fished one extensively on Sunday. They are at least as noisy as snake guides when used on a fly rod. Well, maybe not quite that bad, but noticeably loud when compared to ceramics. They are extremely light and generally weigh about 20% less than the same sized ceramic guide (I've weighed a few for comparative purposes). Because they offer a larger ring opening
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My only suggestion on flies is this - go big and go deep. Any of the guys who smallmouth fish with me will tell you that I only use 1 fly, and have used only that one fly (pattern) for a decade. I see no reason to switch around. Spend your time fishing instead of changing flies. Just tie up something dark, long (at least 2 inches if not longer) and add enough weight so that it will sink in
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It all depends on the requirements of your customers. One company may be well versed in say, bass rod blanks, but you have to go to another company to get what you want in stand-up tuna rod blank. It's rare that one company fills every niche, although some come close. ............
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The chuck shouldn't be loosening. Can you elaborate on your chuck and exactly how you've got things connected? ...............
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You will not find any appreciable increase in distance by moving to SIC guides over snakes or wire type guides. I'm a big, big fan of SIC guides but an easily measurable increase in casting distance simply by switching to SICs is not going to happen. .....................
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I wrote an instruction manual for Renzetti a few years ago. I'll try to find it tomorrow and shoot you a copy. ............
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Friction has to do with how much force is pressing the involved surfaces together. There is very little pressure forcing the line against a guide ring. Therefore, you will see little to no difference in casting distance due to the guide ring involved. A rod with hard chrome guides will effectively cast just as far as a rod sporting super slick and hard SIC rings. A rod with guides made from pap
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You don't need all those different sizes and in fact, you'll get a straighter line path at less weight if you get right on down to the smallest size you plan to use. Skip the 12's and just go to 10's. Do make sure that those 10's will pass your line and any shock leader you may plan on using. .................
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No, it was a matter of dollars and cents. The consumer rarely realizes the cost of doing business and what the final selling price involves. A fly rod that sells for $500 cannot have a physical cost of more than $75 to $100 if you plan to hit the price point and offer the dealer a keystone (or near keystone) mark up. That was what their upper level graphite rods sold for at that time. The re
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It won't be hard to find attachments for it - it's all standard sized stuff and Emerson made the same lathe for both Rigid and Craftsman. ....................
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I have done consulting work for Thomas and Thomas. They prefer ceramics, but cannot afford the cost. I built some saltwater rod prototypes for them a decade and a half ago and their budget for an entire set of guides was something like $3. They loved the Fuji Ti-SIC guides, but the cost blew them away. You can't do ceramics for that. But you can do snake guides for that and for them, this was th
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It will be more than adequate for the simple tasks of turning handles and reel seats. Sounds like a good deal. ...................
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I think there are also some photos of the technique on the photo page. Try there as well. ..............
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They are compatible. It is possible you have experience "amine blush" in the Flex Coat itself. This can happen under a rare but documented precise combination of CO2 and humidity. Neither by itself will case it. Wait a day. Set the rod in a warm place. Try wiping the surface and see if the stuff tends to move or come off. If it does, you most likely have amine blush. Sometimes it im
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