G.Loomis debuted in 1982. Their initial catalog featured rods made from Narmco 33 million modulus graphite. In 1986 they introduced the world's first rods made from Hercules IM6 fiber. By the late 1980's, they did offer IGFA offshore trolling blanks made from fiberglass. But their general business has centered around graphite almost exclusively. So too did Gary Loomis's earlier company, LCI (Loom
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Such a thing is not happening, nor will it happen, provided you employ a sufficient number of guides on the blank. The blank manufacturers are careful to provide products that are not inherently sensitive to such a problem provided some good common sense is utilized during the construction of the rod. When a reasonable number of guides are used on a rod blank, there is no problem with rod bre
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Popping rods are available in different actions - I have some that are fast while others are moderate. Either contact Lamiglas or find another builder that has built that specific blank. Maybe one of them will chime in here. ................
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The ink takes longer to dry on the holo shine than on normal paper so any lines could be due to the paper feed and handling rollers the paper must pass through. The print head shouldn't be touching the paper, so I doubt it's rubbing off any ink that has already been put down. What a new printer may or may not do is going to be hard to say, unless you can find a dealer that will let you test
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The ink takes longer to dry on the holo shine than on normal paper so any lines could be due to the paper feed and handling rollers the paper must pass through. The print head shouldn't be touching the paper, so I doubt it's rubbing off any ink that has already been put down. What a new printer may or may not do is going to be hard to say, unless you can find a dealer that will let you test
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Rod building epoxy may not properly wet out the glass cloth. The standard polyester resin is likely better for that. Or, you could consult any of the companies that make glass and resin systems for boat construction and see what they advise. ...........
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Yes, you can put the guide on top of the sleeve. ..........
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A spiral wrap will not have any effect on casting accuracy. The lure goes where the tip of the rod sends it and neither knows nor cares whether the line is traveling along the bottom or the top of the rod. ....................
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An over-sleeve is all you need. That should not interfere with the mating of the two sections. The sleeve will need to be flexible enough so that the rod is not made overly stiff in that area, which could cause a failure at either end of the sleeve. Read the repair article in the online library here. ...........
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Some printers are better suited to printing on the media than others. With my newer Epson printer, I had to adjust the percent ink settings to get good results on the holo shine. But with my 10 year old Epson, things worked fine as they were. I'm guessing that your ink is puddling or wrinkling on the surface of the paper? If so, let me know, I may have a fix for you. To make the decals/lab
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For long distance casting on surf type rods, many guys prefer the O'Quinn Spiral. Just something else to look at. ............
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The photos were not about aesthetics. They depicted what actually does happen, and to what degree, when you use differing numbers of guides on a rod blank and then load the rod as in a real fishing situation. There was nothing to interpret - the article contained the information needed to explain what the viewer was seeing. This discussion was not about blank tapers nor guide train design. I
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For shallow water fishing for either Trout or Redfish under 10lbs, a 7-weight rod would be something to look at. ..........
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If you're using a lure, you won't be using a fly rod. Fly rods are generally used for casting flies on the end of a fly line. I'll assume you're using that word "lure" interchangeably with "fly." If you were to tell me that you planned on fishing a fly for these fish, in saltwater , for fish of that size, I would most likely steer you towards a fly rod in the general area o
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Until I delete one of them, yes. ..........
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The number on the rod is not an AFTMA rating. The AFTMA ratings are for fly lines, only, and are based on the weight of the first 30 feet of the line. The number you see on the rod is an arbitrary rating based solely upon the subjective opinion of the designer as to which line he would use on that rod for the distance he intends it to be fished. Any fly rod will cast any fly line, at some d
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Your amber hardener (they all turn a bit amber over time) will still function normally. ............
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Torque will come from the lever arm effect of the guides. It will always be present. Use the lowest frame guides you can to help reduce this effect as much as possible. ............
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Nothing has changed. You had 2 different user names if you recall. Nothing you do on your computer will affect the database on my end. ............
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I would ignore the spine and use the straightest axis. But if you want to spine it and put the guides on or opposite the spine, do each section separately and then align and join them. Check the spine again (it will change slightly once the sections are assembled) adjust and necessary and then orient it as you wish. .............
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QuickBond is all I know of, but that's not going to set in 5 minutes. Will be more like 10 to 15. .............
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There is nothing wrong with your epoxy. It can take a few days to a week for it to harden sufficiently enough that a fingernail won't dent it. .............
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Very glad your method works well for you. The 27X factor is based on the reel, not the rod. ............
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At one time, nearly all rods, fly, surf, boat, casting and even spinning, were made from bamboo. ...........
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Angler's Roost - Talk to Johnny Kuhne. I've seen 2 of the blanks he's importing and frankly they're very nice. Very well finished as well. If you want to start the blank rather than making it yourself, I think you'd be pleased with what he offers. You can call him at:716-565-9838 or email him via jksanglersroost@&#
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Let me correct one thing lest we revisit the mistake some made earlier. The choke guide (there is only one choke guide) is not the butt guide. The choke guide is the first of the small running guides found on setups that employ the New Guide Concept system. ................
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I don't want to make any incorrect assumptions, but those photos weren't intended to show that you didn't need guides on the butt area, only that problems with the blank going beyond a 90 degree flex in a normal situation are only likely to occur with insufficient guide number or poor placement on the upper 1/2 to 1/3rd of the rod. Your earlier statement about there being no real change in bla
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You might also take a look at the upper end of the models offered for Muskie fishing. ...............
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Steven, Thanks for chiming in with that information. ...................
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Denis, My response to Patrick was intended to illustrate that units of length, or units in any other system of relative measurement, make no claim as to whether something is long or short, or light or heavy. They only have relevance to the other numbers, higher or lower, in the same system. And this holds true for any of your 300 different units of length measurement. That was the issue h
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