I turn it only whenever it needs to be turned - you judge this by watching the bottom of the wraps and when it appears to be getting just a tad heavy, spin the rod 180 degrees. Always keeping the guides straight up, or straight down. You stop doing this once the finish appears to be set. When the finish no longer moves, you're done. You can tip the mix cup on its side after an hour and a half
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This is a partial list of the seminar presenters slated to appear and participate at the 2010 International Custom Rod Building Exposition: Jim Upton Gary Loomis Dennis Papike Dr. William Hanneman Billy Vivona Mike Barkley Ralph O’Quinn Steve Gardner Tom Kirkman Randy “Buzz” Butters Capt. Mike Pedersen Kevin Knox Jason Brunner We are finalizing the topics now
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In over 30 years of building custom rods, I've never employed a dryer of any kind on any custom rod I've ever built. They can be nice, but are not absolutely necessary. So don't worry too much about it at this point. It's not something you must have to get that first rod done. .................
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Complete instructions on building birch bark handles can be found in the Volume 9 #2 issue of RodMaker. ..............
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I don't use the story pole method for guide placement. However, if I did, I would do exactly what I outlined in my earlier post - set up a fly rod of that length by trial and error, static test and cast until you have exactly what you want. Then flex the rod, run the story pole along it and mark the pole at each point where it intersects with a guide. This will result in spacing on the pole t
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Not sure, but a Hot Shot blank might work very well for that. Light tip but extremely powerful mid and butt sections. ............
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Read Bill Colby's article on the Tiger Wraps - his use of varigated thread creates one of the more stunning effects possible with these wraps. Both his and Scott Throop's original articles are in the online library here. ......
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On very long rods you may find it helpful to place the blank flat on the floor and do everything on that plane instead of a wall where you have limited height. ............
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Ralph O'Quinn has recommended a thin primer coat of CA on nickel silver parts, but not on most other metal surfaces. ...............
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On any fraction just divide the numerator by the denominator and you'll have your decimal equivalent. ......................
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Until he does, you'll have to contact him directly. ..............
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If Bill wants to do it I'll spring for the tables. ...........
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"I will do all the work pro bono." Great, do it. As long as it doesn't add to my workload in any way I'm all for it. A couple things to remember - The internet only reaches about 100 to 150 of the Expo attendees. That's why events that rely mostly on internet advertising don't draw very well. So you'll have to do a bit of work to get the word out to everybody. I can run a news relea
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Here's another tip - Take any rod you have of a specific length and set it up manually with static stress testing and test casting. Really tweak it until you have it just right. Make this your pattern rod. Then flex it as specified and run the story pole along the rod making a mark on the pole each time it intersects with a guide on your rod. Label that pole for that length rod and any time you b
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How do you plan to reach each of the 1500 to 2200 rod builders that attend the ICRBE and let them know about this? ..............
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The specs aren't that different. Length and casting weight are given in metric terms in your area. Action is where the rod initially flexes. Here, Fast Action refers to a rod that initially flexes in the upper 1/3rd of its length. Medium in the upper 1/2 and Slow along the entire length. I would assume that in your area Top = Fast, Medium = Medium and Full = Slow. Line ratings, other than for
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It’s very conceivable and even quite likely that many rod builders do stay within the confines of the manufacturers’ category listings and model prefixes when selecting their blanks. This is particularly true of beginning rod builders who don’t yet have the confidence to look at different blanks and make selections based on the known performance characteristics of those models. I used my fi
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Mike hit it on the head - your guides have to accommodate whatever knots or connections you plan to use. There's not much of a way around that. ............
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If it happens and you catch it before its too late, you can pick it open and then use a small drop of finish on a toothpick to fill in the crater. Watch it for a few seconds and it if does not appear to be flowing and smoothing, use a gentle flame to very lightly warm that area for just a 2 or 3 seconds. That's generally all it takes to momentarily thin the epoxy and allow it to reflow and smooth
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The Lite versions can't really be put on very heavy without getting runs and sags, even with rotation. So if you're not having any problem there, your application amount is probably okay. There isn't anything in an ink inscription that would generate bubbles so these have to originate from your finish. Keep in mind that epoxy does not need heat in order to level - leveling is automatic. Heat g
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Okay, one of the problems that can occur with the Lite versions of any finish is the longer pot or working life. This means that bubbles have a much longer time to rear their ugly heads. With most higher build formula epoxies, at an hour and a half what you see is what you'll get. Not so with some of the lite formulas. You may have to watch the finish for up to 3 to 4 hours before you can safely
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Over an inscription the bubbles would almost have to have been in the finish itself. Nowhere else for them to have come from if the edges of the labels are well adhered and sealed. Before I assume too much, let me ask you if you were using the Lite or Regular build version of TM. ...........
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A story pole is a stick or pole often used by carpenters to record full scale measurements for items that must be produced in duplicates. Rod builders have adopted it for use in guide spacing. If you mark the pole in equidistant spaces, and then flex the rod to a specified amount, you can slide the pole along the rod and locate a guide at each mark. It works remarkably well in many cases preci
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The bubbles may be coming from the thread or your brush. Do you use color preserver or are you applying the epoxy directly to the bare thread? .................
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The guides on the top half of the rod will play the greatest role in balance and speed. I'd set using the New Guide Concept and use those TLSG guides for the choker and running guides. On the butt you could use either TSVSG or TLVSG. The concept style guides could be used there as well. Those are tough, powerful fish and if you think the rod will experience any rough handling, then go for doubl
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I have seen the ferrules and they're beautiful. And already fitted - no further work is required. .............
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From Volume 10 #4, the Universal Rod Rating System: To Make the TP/Tip Power Measurement: 5. Repeat this procedure several times with different lengths of rod tip protruding. Six inch intervals are sufficient. Remember the required distance deflected will be different for each change in length. .......
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I wasn't redirecting - you asked how to take the measurement and the article clearly spells out how to do it. .................
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Fly line weight and lure weight are the same thing - weight. The rod doesn't know if you're loading it with sinkers, line, lure or a ball of dough. Weight is weight (provided the same gravitational pull is in effect). The URRS has a component for helping you figure lure weight ranges. But most spinning and casting blanks already come with that information. Page 16, RodMaker Volume 10 #4 ha
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In general, fly rods, salmon-steelhead rods and general purpose spinning rods are constructed with less power in their lower half than casting and spinning blanks used for bass and saltwater fishing. A light fly rod blank will certainly do what you want to do but it will not have the amount of reserve power in the butt that the more modern "mag" taper rods do. ...............
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