A story pole is a stick or pole often used by carpenters to record full scale measurements for items that must be produced in duplicates. Rod builders have adopted it for use in guide spacing. If you mark the pole in equidistant spaces, and then flex the rod to a specified amount, you can slide the pole along the rod and locate a guide at each mark. It works remarkably well in many cases preci
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The bubbles may be coming from the thread or your brush. Do you use color preserver or are you applying the epoxy directly to the bare thread? .................
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The guides on the top half of the rod will play the greatest role in balance and speed. I'd set using the New Guide Concept and use those TLSG guides for the choker and running guides. On the butt you could use either TSVSG or TLVSG. The concept style guides could be used there as well. Those are tough, powerful fish and if you think the rod will experience any rough handling, then go for doubl
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I have seen the ferrules and they're beautiful. And already fitted - no further work is required. .............
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From Volume 10 #4, the Universal Rod Rating System: To Make the TP/Tip Power Measurement: 5. Repeat this procedure several times with different lengths of rod tip protruding. Six inch intervals are sufficient. Remember the required distance deflected will be different for each change in length. .......
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I wasn't redirecting - you asked how to take the measurement and the article clearly spells out how to do it. .................
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Fly line weight and lure weight are the same thing - weight. The rod doesn't know if you're loading it with sinkers, line, lure or a ball of dough. Weight is weight (provided the same gravitational pull is in effect). The URRS has a component for helping you figure lure weight ranges. But most spinning and casting blanks already come with that information. Page 16, RodMaker Volume 10 #4 ha
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In general, fly rods, salmon-steelhead rods and general purpose spinning rods are constructed with less power in their lower half than casting and spinning blanks used for bass and saltwater fishing. A light fly rod blank will certainly do what you want to do but it will not have the amount of reserve power in the butt that the more modern "mag" taper rods do. ...............
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All builders are using the same unit of measurement - the post 1996 U.S. cent. ERN = ELN at average distances for average fishermen. Line numbers run from 2 to 12 for the most part so "51" isn't a direct correlation to any of the line numbers. Thus, cents were converted to figures that could be correlated to line numbers. It isn't necessary to do this because ERN and Cents are inter
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Scott, That is exactly what I said in my previous post - "This won't help you compare against other builders or manufacturers using ERN but it will allow you to continue working in house to make your own comparisons. " ............. Scott, The CCS does not deal with line class ratings - those mean little to nothing. The original use of the ERN figure was to allow fly fish
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You're obviously not working with the equation of ERN = ELN for line matching so you can do your own thing here (until an expanded chart becomes available). Several builders I know are not using ERN directly, but are simply using the number of cents as a relative measure for power. If you have one rod that is a "300 cent rod" and another that is a "350 cent rod" the 350 cent
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No, just clean lines. Most of the debris picked up from fishing drop off as they move across the tiptop. I just some sort of indication what the rings are capable of. It may be possibly to determine the total length of line pulled across the guides and translate that to how many retrieves a fishermen could expect to make before having trouble. Of course, the load would be different for retriev
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By loading the rod from the tip, the blank itself will show you where to locate the guides. ............
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If you tie the load line to the tiptop, only, and then load it, the rod blank will flex in the manner that it was designed to. This offers the maximum possible deadlift capability. If you then space your guides accordingly and assuming you do a good job of it, loading the line running through the guides will not appreciably change the way the rod flexes. In fact, that's the whole point of do
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I used them in their original form back in the mid-1980s and never had any issues with grooving. Although to be fair, braid was not a hot item at that time. Most fishermen still used mono exclusively. I have a test rig going with a windshield wiper motor pulling a section of braid over a rod ringed with the Minima's. It runs 24 hours a day and is currently loaded with 3lbs of weight. ......
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Set your forum view settings to provide you with the "threaded view" and you can see each individual post without having to open a thread. ..............
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They're not in bad shape at all. They are in good supply and thus are being sold for a little less these days. ............
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ERN is a relative power rating. It's not just for fly rods. It would be about 27. Walt is probably right on the money. ...........
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You could set the 2nd and 3rd guides just a hair closer to each other, but what you have isn't going to result in any sort of problem. .............
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Don't locate the seat in any attempt to balance the blank. That compromises the extra length, which is going to give him additional casting distance and "feel" (the fish is going to have a longer lever and knows what to do with it). The rear handle need only be long enough to allow him to fight the fish off his forearm rather than his wrist. I do feel the LF would have been better
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The basic Flex Coat hand wrapper will serve you well. The model with the additional free standing support is very worthwhile. This will make building those first rods much, much easier. .............
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If your browser is set to receive "cookies" then you will have a "new post" next to any post you have not read or since your last visit. ................
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No, go with the smallest guides possible, regardless of what you have to use as the tiptop. ............
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If you let it set in the cup "for a while" and thicken up, you've just tossed out most of the working time of the Lite stuff. Nor will it level as well at that point. I'm not trying to get anybody to switch if what they have now is working for them, but you can do it all with just one finish. Try LS Supreme High Build if you want a high build finish with a longer working time. The h
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I'd use the Simple Spiral for this. Volume 8 #5 had the set up for a live bait rod in 7' length. Setting it up for an 8 footer would simply require an extra guide or two. Any spiral wrap is going to be a good idea for such a rod. ............
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Wood putty. Cork dust and Duco Cement. There are many ways to do this. ............
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Johnny Kuehn 716-565-9838 jksanglersroost@aol.com .............
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No it's not set up that way. All the threads here get responses. We get about 100 to 125 posts per day and having all the older topics popping back to the top every time they're responded to did not work well. ........
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The grip we introduced wasn't shaped quite like that, but is at least similar. Everything is made together so you don't have 2 separate pieces. ..........
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I'll assume you haven't read any of the RodMaker articles on making your own decals. What you want to do is very easy and there are additional methods covered in those articles that you may not have considered and would actually prefer. If you want to stick to writing directly on the rod, something you can do that really helps with writing on the round surface is to raise the area around the r
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