I had a problem with my last couple of projects regarding nickel silver hardware. I did some reading some months back and now prime my hardware prior to glueing with a very thin coat of CA after degreasing and deglossing. This seems to work very good.

I have noticed on my wood inlays that the wood seems to soak up some of the adhesive prior to glueing. My question is

Do any of you who work with wood prime the surfaces to be glued before actually gluing? I have noticed a couple of weak bonds while testing. I was thinking of either a thin coat of the actual adhesive or as I do on metal CA.

Any input would be appreciated.

Scott
[solwaycustomcomponents.blogspot.com]

Good Morning Scott,
Back in the days when I used metal ferrules (primarily Nickel Silver), I simply scuffed the inside of the ferrule with very fine grit sand paper (this was before 3M pads came into existence). I have never had a metal ferrule come loose. About three or four years ago I began to build wood grips for my fly rods. I use hardwoods, but not the tropical hardwoods which seem to contain larger amounts of oil. After boring and reaming, I run a gray 3M pad through the grip followed by an electrostatic tack cloth (available from Home Depot or others of that ilk). I then glue the grip to the blank using Rod Bond which does not expand upon curing, remains flexible, and is extremely tough. I haven't had any failures yet. I should include that I always put a water break surface on the blank where I glue the grip. This is my experience--I hope it helps.

Mike Blomme

Ive not had any problem glueing to the blank. Weak bonds have occurred between the faces of two pcs of wood. I only put a thin coat(scrape with a blade) on and seems as though its soaking into the wood too much for any adhesive to be left. I am using Ultimate Gel and all the wood is stabilized. Clamping pressure is just snug.

I do a lot of wood grips with many types of wood and use nothing but Titebond II or III to clue the wood (or cork) together and Rod Bond or Ultimate Gel to glue to the blank or seat

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

it could be the types of wood your are using. if you are using a wood with a high resin content then some glues don't work as well. the urethane glues work well with high resin woods as well as epoxy, but each type of glue has its pros and cons. ca is not the best to glue wood together

Ralph O'Quinn has recommended a thin primer coat of CA on nickel silver parts, but not on most other metal surfaces.

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If you do much wood working you will find that some woods will soak up the adhesive leaving you a somewhat "dry" surface, resulting a less then adequate bond between the two surfaces. A good practice is to apply your adhesive to the porous surface and allow it to be absorbed (prime) (end grain and burls are the worst). I typically apply the adhesive, watch the surface, it is usually evident where you may need to go back and add additional adhesive, the surface will go from to wet looking to a dry appearance. If you have the luxury of a small section of waste material try your adhesive there first.

Bill Bauer

Thats good info Bill.

I talked to a boat building pal today. He pretty much said the same thing. On oily wood he suggested I clean with laquer thinner or similar first, let it dry and if the surface is whitish looking go ahead and glue.

On porous wood or end grain. I was advised to either coat with a very thin coat let it dry and sand lightly before gluing or coat let it sit for 30 min and touch up any dry areas before gluing as you suggested.

Thanks

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