Several more Expo vendors have signed on in the past couple days. As of 8/7/09 Vendors who have purchased booth space/s to date: Batson Enterprises (Rainshadow/Forecast) Midwest Rod & Reel Seeker Rod Company REC Components Donart The Rod Shop, Inc. Skin Shop USA Scott’s Custom Rods (Fish Sticks/RodDancer) Kinnikinnick Wood (realseatblanks.com) Swa
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If he's very rough on his equipment, then a glass rod might be the ticket. It'll be heavier but much more durable. A surf spinning rod is just like a bass spinning rod, only larger. Set it up the same way but make sure your guides will pass whatever line and leader knots he may use. .............
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It is unlikely that the line wrapped around each and every one of those guides. Most likely, a knot or perhaps the line wrapping around the butt guide and clipping it, then resulted in the remaining guides being too small to pass the obstruction. It is also possible that it had nothing to do with the line and the guides were ripped out in some other way. .............
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The NGC as it applies to spinning rods isn't really applicable on fly or casting rods - the reels dictate otherwise. Fly and casting reels do not present the same problem that a spinning reel does so that system just isn't necessary. What you want to do is locate the butt or stripping guide about 30 or 31 inches from the butt of the rod (regardless of what length rod you have) and then use pe
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An internal sleeve won't be stiffer, in fact, when done also in glass it will be less stiff than the same thing as on oversleeve owing to the smaller diameter. You can certainly give it a try - just make sure the blank continues to be able to flex across the repaired area. You just don't want a rigid splint there. ............
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North Fork is getting underway now. Most likely it will be a few more weeks before anyone will see any production blanks. There will only be 3 direct dealers for the time being. The Common Cents System does not measure fly rods, nor bass rods nor steelhead rods. It doesn’t measure bare blanks nor finished rods. It doesn’t measure graphite, glass nor bamboo. What the Common Cents System
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The larger concern on such a rod is that because it is quite light it can be expected to flex deeply into the butt area. For this reason whatever you do the repair must not interfere with the rod's normal flex in that area. Don't worry about making it "strong," worry about what will happen if you make it too stiff in that area. If you put what amounts to a rigid splint there, you're lik
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Matching? No. You can probably find something that will fit, but it won't likely match in terms of being a continuation of the butt section's power and action. I suspect it would be a wasted effort considering what you'd wind up with. ........
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Any of the nylon/graphite seats will hold your reel securely. The elasticity of the hoods coupled with the nylon liner make them the most absolutely secure seats you can use on any rod. However, since you say you don't really want that style seat, you'll have to keep looking. If you provide the length, width and thickness of the reel foot you're working with it might help others that don't hav
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I bore after turning, but would be the first to tell you that unless you have the right technique to guarantee a perfectly centered bore, you're better off boring first and then turning. ..............
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Real tung oil will not allow you to build any depth. It is mostly a penetrating oil and isn't going to have a thick high gloss look to it. So the number of coats you decide to use is really up to you. The recommendation of 6 coats is most likely what the maker feels gives adequate protection for the intended use. If the manufacturer says to wait 24 hours between coats, well... they don't put t
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A good tube is structurally sound everywhere but on the very ends. The ends are where minute cracks can develop. Plugging the ends with a firm yet flexible material helps reduce the tendency to crack or split as the end goes oval. .............
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Ian hasn't ordered any so I'd have to say that he isn't offering them. I will only ship within the U.S. ..............
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The authors run the gamut from Rich Forhan to Ian Miller. People who have a vast amount of expertise in the particular fields in which they have written about. If you can find a better compilation of information on task specific rods, run and buy it. .............
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The problem there is that your customers are buying a complete fishing rod - not just your labor in putting a rod together. At least that how most of them see it. Of course this depends on how you sell rods. I never allowed the customer to specify a particular blank or manufacturer for the components. Those were all my picks so I felt that I was selling a complete rod and needed to warranty th
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No pre-orders, please. I'll notify when they're ready. .........
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The limited edition RodMaker CD on guide placement is now just about sold out. I have exactly 7 copies left. When these are gone, they're gone. I will be starting on the SE # 2 shortly which will encompass the building of specialty task specific rods. ................
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It's a good idea to plug them. Use EVA, cork or even a pat of RodBond. ..........
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Maybe. Many fishermen are going to look at that and say, "Hey, why should I pay anything for a replacement if the failure was due to a defect?" And they have a point. Some builders cover the whole thing and simply charge enough up front to eat some labor costs on the few rods that do require warranty replacement. Others take the route you propose and set a standard labor fee for repl
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There have been plans for making your own weaving jig in several issues of RodMaker Magazine. In fact, Volume 9 #3 has an excellent and inexpensive set of plans for making one by none other than Jim Upton, the man who invented the Wonder Weaver. ................
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What is wrong is that your browser called up an older page which it had cached before you posted. Always remember to refresh your page before making the bad assumption that your post was removed or "wiped out." You may find it helpful to cancel your browser's automatic task of caching pages. If you have a high speed connection, you don't need it to do that. ............
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There are adhesive and finishing alternatives outside of epoxy. .............
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It is possible to become "sensitized" to the amines in epoxy. This can lead to serious complications. I'd advise speaking to your doctor or an allergist about this. ...........
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The length is up to you, but the whole point of stand-up style fishing is to remove as much of the leverage advantage the fish has with more traditional length rods so you end up in more of a direct tug-of-war with the fish. In such a case, as long as you're bigger and stronger than the fish is, you can whip him pretty quickly. This is why long rods don't function well for stand-up fishing. T
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Metal ferrules were best joined by sliding the sections straight together. Integral graphite ferrules require that slide and twist to keep them secure. ..............
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Okay, it sounds like you're doing this correctly. In that case, and assuming you're putting a good amount of pressure into the "twist" part of the assembly, you may have a bad fitting ferrule. It can bottom out either way - the tip can bottom out up inside the female section or the female section may be seating on the male section too soon. Mike has given you some good advice and yo
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The articles in the library, which are the original articles, answer this question very clearly. The top thread will determine the overall color of the wrap. The bottom threads are mostly to provide the amount of contrast needed to make the effect either bold or subtle. ............
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Before we get started, how are you assembling the sections? ..............
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It will work just fine, just keep in mind that when combined with other materials they all cut at different rates. So some type of sanding block or hard surface is needed to ensure that everything is taken down at the same rate. ...........
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Yes, you can use them. In fact this is where most of the so called exotic cork sold as rings originates. There is one problem with the bona fide cork tiles, however - most have a hard urethane coating on one side to make them suitable for use on floors without wearing terribly. Unless you sand this off, and it's quite a job to do it, you will have very noticeable thick lines between each ring.
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