I do my alignment dots on top of a light coat of epoxy and then apply a second coat after the mark is dry. No bleeding!!!
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A couple of us leaving California at 7:00AM and planning on making the reception, thankfully we gain 3hours traveling East! Ken, hope to catch up with you, owe you a beer from last year!
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There is no such thing as dealers "carrying spare tips!" If you are lucky you might find someone who has a tip from another rod of the same model that they will part with, but the chances are slim! You could do a repair on the section, there are articles on the "how to."
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I can do it for you, but suspect that being in California, I am along way away from you.
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Not clear on your Decal Connection comment? You can order custom decals with any name you want on it! Also, an amazing collection of fonts are available. I find that using their decals in white or gold or Silver, they really stand out on the blank regardless of blank color.
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While not a fan of TFO blanks, I have built a number of 2wts on Batson RX6 and RX7 blanks, they are sweet! I second Herb's thoughts regarding using anything but very light single foot guides on that light of rod.
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Before applying it to anything, test the epoxy on the decal to see if it effects the print. If not, apply a coat of epoxy first then the decal and another coat of epoxy.
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If you are thinking of using rod wrap epoxy, it is pretty soft for an area that will have a reel on it.. I use the epoxy I use on Carbon Fiber grips and have used Perma Seal, however Perma Seal is pretty hot. I have only used it on waterslide decals not peel and stck.
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Goo Gone 2X it really works!
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Yes, the comment does apply to clear decals. When a clear decal is applied directly (no epoxy) to a matte blank, it often appears hazy.
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I fish Tenkara as well as more conventional fly rods. The Tenkara has it's place, smaller streams and rivers where you are most likely to catch trout up to about 14-15 inches. I have landed Browns up to 16-17 inches, but not easily. It is amazingly easy to cast dry flies up to the extent of the reach of the line and rod, which in the case of a 15 foot rod, gives you about 30 feet. Not fun on
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It does help to preserve and protect the cork. As said above, making it much easire to clean the grip. As for the $7.00 cost, the 4oz will probably do 50 grips, that works out to about $.14 cents per grip.
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Apply decal on top of the first coat of epoxy. This is especially important on matte finish blanks!
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I use Threadmaster, both regular and Lite.
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Why would you use both a clear coat and Lumiseal? Lumiseal is a "clear coat!" Always test when putting two different coatings, one on top the other!
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I also use decal connection and have for years, and use NO CP on the decal! I put the decal on the first coat of epoxy, after letting the epoxy set overnight and then put on my second coat. Never had any type of problem with this process and excellent results.
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Penn State Industries has a good selection of Mini and Midi lathes, with and without the variable speed control.
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There are matte spry finishes available, both at art supply and hardware stores. A matte or semi-gloss urethanes will work.
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Forget the jewlers saw unless you like replacing broken blades. Zona makes a stiff backed saw that is only .008" thick that works just great!!! Their blades are also replaceable, but you never need to.
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Thanks Tom! I have a couple of 4pc already, was more interested in the technique and project then anything else. The thought came to me as a way of possibly converting the rod. It is an older Powell and I love the action, but not the hassle!
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I have a 9' 6" 9wt 2 piece fly rod that is a pain to try and travel (fly) with! Thinking of attempting to make it a 4 piece. My question is; if I can find the correct taper solid fiberglass blank or used rod, can it be used to successfully make spigot ferrules? Any cautions or lessons learned?
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As cork is a closed cell structure, it will not absorb liquids, stain or otherwise. That's why it is used as floats! Any attempt to stain will result in coloration of the outside surface of the cork. Many have tried, even under pressure or in a vacuum with out success.
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Cal, read the exhibitor list on the left!
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Two out of the same botle won't even stay on the blank, will drip constantly.
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WOW, I use Titebond lll and have never had a cork to cork seam release. Cork to other materials, yes, so for them I use epoxy. Could there have been dust or other material on the cork surface?
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The color of the blank under the thread will effect the outcome. Light threads on a dark blank will darken, not as much using NCP or with color preserver, but both are still effected some. If you want an unchanged color some apply a coat of white paint on the wrap area before wrapping.
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Ray, I'm in the Bay Area and could do the adaption if not to far away. I've built a number of Switch rods.
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If you are putting a pressure sensitive label on top of a coat of thread wrap epoxy, there should not be an issue of the edges coming up, with or without CP! The key is to be sure the epoxy undercoat is only a day or so old and that you burnish the edges of the label down thoroughly! I build fly rods and use Decal Connection labels as above and have never had an edge show up or lift!
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Not aware of a "Schiggin", could it be JC Higgins? That was Sears & Roebuck brand. Why make it a one piece?
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Using shims to fill the Cerf cuts, insures that every piece is consistent. If you do not shim, as you make more and more cuts, it becomes almost impossible to keep the wedges consistent. Xray film is a very good shim if you are using .008 Cerf saw as it matches the Cerf I make the first cut all the way thru and then put a shim in each side of the cut. This leaves the center open to allow subseque
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