I would like to stain cork. Before I burn through a few rings with experiments do any of you have a tip or two on material and technique? Thanks.

As cork is a closed cell structure, it will not absorb liquids, stain or otherwise. That's why it is used as floats! Any attempt to stain will result in coloration of the outside surface of the cork. Many have tried, even under pressure or in a vacuum with out success.

Chris,
Do a search of all dates on the subject. You will be convinced to leave it alone. I was wanting to do the same thing last week and after some research ordered colored burl cork instead.
Good Luck.
J. Scott

Hi Chris,
I did a test a couple of month's back with cork staining to see what would happen. After a couple of minutes rubbing with a nail brush and some liquid soap all the stain had disappeared. The only way you can retain the colour is to coat the cork with varnish or permagloss after staining and that will detract from the natural cork feel.

ESFNEM Col
Port Kembla, NSW
Australia

I have had good success with staining cork. I own a large Benjamin Moore paint store, and my family has been in the coatings industry for 50 or more years. I have the ability to get my hands on literally every type of stain, or coating that exists. Alcohol based NGR stains will stain it well. You don't have to use any finish if you don't want to, but the color will "wash out" eventually. If you want to coat it with something to bring the color back, or retain the color longer, I use a product from Richards Paints called Shields all. Product #53. I have tried all sorts of things, this has worked out the best for me. It is a 100% acrylic water born sealer made to seal pavers, brick, stone, etc. You will most likely need to cut the stain significantly because almost all NGR stains are concentrates. You can cut alcohol based stain with almost anything, including water. I use toluol most of the time. Just make sure your stain is dry before you seal it up.

Couple more things. NGR stain is closer to a dye, than a stain. Its colors are made with trans oxide pigments, rather than dyes. So, it will be much more colorfast than any dye. Dyes will dye cork too, but will fade almost immediately in the sun. Trans oxide pigment is much more stable, and much smaller than the regular organic pigment that's in most other stains. Any questions, let me know. -- Matt

Thank you Matt. How did you apply the NGR?

Just with a rag. Do a couple sample pieces first. You will want to play around with your mix. It depends on what color, and NGR stain you use, but my guess it that you will want to cut it at least 200% depending on how transparent you want it.

Matt,
if you scratch or cut that stained cork, how deep is the color penetration?
I have a mixture i use for some folks that is essentially a powder form of wood filler from the flooring industry that i mix with U40 grip sealer instead of water. Its adhesion is awesome especially filling pits, but its like a paint on the actaul cork, just the top mil or two and of course the pits gets the color. Feel is ok too. But wear causes some strange effects. The closed cells of the cork just will not allow it to penetrate.

Depends on the density of the cork. Really good AAA cork wont absorb as much as cheaper stuff. But, I would say that it will penetrate a couple mm. I havent had a problem with it. NGR stain is water thin, so it penetrates well. Most of the time I do a light sand with 180 grit before I stain so that everything stains fairly even.