Cannot see a reason to do it! Fly lines do not wear on guides, and on the light weights you are rarely into the backing.
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As it will be destroyed in removing, a knife or chisel slipped along the blank (carefully) will do it.
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Tom is absolutely correct! It yellows the same whether in the bottle or on the rod! If you apply the stuff you have now on a wrap, it will not appear yellow with the exception of being put over a white surface. Toss it if you wish, but you have saved nothing.
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As J. P. says, too big and too heavy! You actually could use the 1" tubing as it will easily do the 1 1/8" I use the hand method that I learned from J.P. (Timberlake) and after working from the middle out, I tape the ends to the mandrel and then use zip ties to cinch down the ends right up against the core' This method gives me nice conformity, even with the flat end on a full wells f
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Have you tried Decal Connection?
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Ink jet ink is water soluble, so the CP dissolved the ink.
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You will find that "bradpoint" drill bits will track truer when drilling with the grain on the lathe. The longer the bore, the more likely it is to get some drifting due to grain density variations. I often find it advisable to drill from each end rather then attempt a very long bore.
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Flexcoat makes an excellent guide foot adhesive, with just a little practice it is easy and quick to use, and yes, you can still adjust the guide after wrapping.
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Roger, go build the 4 and then post photos of each with the results, so that we know they are actual and not just.............theory!!!!
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I use Decal Connection peel n stick decals all the time along with Threadmaster Lite and regular without any repelling or rippling or waves. Suspect it is something other then the decal.
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Hey Bill, is this some kind of code?
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I like them for Salmon, Steelhead, Bonefish and other big species, and I put them on 7wt and up. However I make them all as the removable style, so that when I don't need or want them, I can remove it.
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Strange...................I thought this was about rod building !!!!!!!! A better forum for this would be You Tube!
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I was told that the fly blanks have always been the "high modulus." I have built a number of rods on these blanks and I and my clients love them. One customer calls them his "rocket caster!"
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Russ, yes I have fished for Bones a lot. And long accurate casts are the norm. Especially like casting on Christmas Island! I tell the newbies I take there to "practice casting 60 to 80 feeti in a 20 to 25 mph wind to a fish they cannot see!"
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Russ, Steelhead are not called "The fish of a thousand casts" for nothing! To try and answer your questions: Native Steelhaed and Native Rainbow Trout are both extremely wary, one no more so than the other. Hatchery Rainbows are another story! The difference in Summer & Winter run has more to due with water clarity then the fish themselves. Water temperature also has a big effect o
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I guess it depends upon the type of fishing you are doing? From my experience as a fly fisherman and fly rod builder, you better be able to cast long distances for Northwest Steelhead, but for trout, not so important! One of the drivers of the increasing use of Spey rods, is the ability they give you to cover lots of water in the big Steelhead rivers.
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I have worked my way through two of the sample bottles from the ICRBE and am not at all impressed with the product! I tried differing appliction methods including those recommended by Kevin Knox, and I found it did not level as well as 2 part epoxies, dried or cured slower and was very prone to bubbles which were then very hard to remove. The one very positive is the lack of fumes and odor! I
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You will continue to have problems with the 1/4" mandrel, they are just too flexible, and the longer the more so! Every mandrel needs to be supported at both ends! You might get away with a big very sort mandrel, but barely! Tightening a 1/4" mandrel strongly with the tail stock will put a bow in the mandrel before you ever turn it on. If your tail-stock tends to loosen at start up, ju
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Thomas, it is not just the exposed mandrel that flexes, a 1/4" mandrel will flex within the turning grip material. I do not turn EVA , but do turn cork, cork composites and many types of wood and I have quit using a 1/4" due to the flexing issue. I go up in diameter of mandrel as close to the blank size as I can.
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1/4" mandrels are prone to flexing under pressure, this could be your problem.
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I use Treadmaster exclusively for all my rods, both fresh and salt water no problems.
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Yes you can apply it over Metallic, and no...it doesn't need it.
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Black does not need to be NCP, it won't go transparent.
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The white Pearsalls Gossamer goes completely clear! I have customers swear that I had not used any thread at all on my clear wraps on both Bamboo and Graphite blanks.
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I use white Gossomer silk thread, then apply a coat of Threadmaster epoxy thinned to almost water consistency with Denatured alcohol. let this cure a couple of days ,the thinning prolongs the curing. Then apply a second unthinned coat. They should completely disappear.
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There is absolutely no reason to wipe the previous epoxy with anything! If it is more then a few days old, it can be scuffed with a 3m pad or light sanding, but no liquids!
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All the major manufacturers make fine blanks, otherwise they wouldn't stay in business. However they do not all make the same broad lines for various applications (types of fishing), and most have at least a few price points and even things like colors. Thus the type of fishing the blank is to be used for, can narrow the list of suppliers, beyond this it becomes a matter of choice based upon t
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It is still a controversial subject! Many still build on the spine, while probably just as many others build on the straight axis. Just saw a presentation of St Croix's Wisconsin plant, and they build on the straight axis. That is also the way I do it. I only build fly rods.
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I have built on both (only fly rods) and as Rinshadow has 2 different models RX7 & RX8 there are differences between them. The RX& is a more moderate action then the MHX and the RX* is perhaps a little faster. Again I have only built on the fly blanks of both.
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