Going to be getting a new printer in the next few days and was wondering what the best brand to use with the papillo holographic silver shine paper would be. I have an HP 2175 all in one now and it does good for most stuff, but for some reason it won't print the silver shine. The silver shine I have says for use with ink jets, but for some reason it just won't print it. So I'm going to get new a printer and want input from ya'll. This printer will be a fully dedicated silver shine printer so what is a good brand to go with for the Holographic silver shine paper?

Thanks,

Craig

Craig,

If you plan on using the paper for a Fishing rod application, the company does not advise it for outdoor use. Here are the specifications:

Type

Papillo Inkjet Holographic Metallic Polyester Film.
Size 8.5" X 11"
Printers All Desktop Inkjet Printers
Color Holographic Silver (Pattern Silver Glitter)
Thickness 2.7 MIL
Adhesive Permanent
Outdoor Life Not recommended.
Instructions Included (Click Here for PDF)
Tools/Material needed None.
Note: Indoor use only

Rena

Rena have your seen this?

Please click on the link -

[www.swamplandtackle.com]

Craig:

When you cover it with rodbuilding finish the outdoor limitation can be ignored.

That printer has been successfully tested -

What do you mean it will not print on the silver holo shine?

Is the the ink running all over the place during the intial print? If so the clerk who filled your order made a mistake and sent you holoshine for laser jet or you ordered the incorrect media. Match up the part numbers with the information on the Swampland Tackle site under Decal Media. The two are different and are not compatable.

If it is simply not printing or putting ink on the media something is wrong with your printer settings.

If it is easily smudged after it comes out of the printer you need to wait overnight before trying touch or handle it.



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 07/10/2009 09:12AM by Bill Stevens.

I recently purchased the decal media from swampland however it did not come with any instructions. I know that I can get instructions from the back issue of rodmaker but I was curious as to if there are any articles online that I can use while I wait on the back issue.

Some printers are better suited to printing on the media than others. With my newer Epson printer, I had to adjust the percent ink settings to get good results on the holo shine. But with my 10 year old Epson, things worked fine as they were.

I'm guessing that your ink is puddling or wrinkling on the surface of the paper? If so, let me know, I may have a fix for you.

To make the decals/labels more durable for handling during the application phase, I apply a couple good coats of clear acrylic spray (Apple Tree is the particular brand I prefer). The following decal was made with this technique:

[www.rodbuilding.org]

..............

I have no problems with a 5 year old HP (uses the ink that is NOT recommended). Try a couple different settings, but I get good results with the normal setting (NOT Glossy Photo setting) On Bobby Feazel's recomendation, I don't touch them till next day. I also use Fix-a-Tiff marre spray (Krylon)

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

Thanks guys. I use workable fixtif spray to coat the labels. After the rod expo this year I bought the paper and the first two sheets printed great. I was showing some customers the paper one day and how I would make decals and left the paper in the garage. I think the first set got moisture in it. (humidity) I order a new pack and got it yesterday. When the printer prints with the decal media the first maybe 1/2 inch is great then there are lines running through and the color fades from black to orange. I think the back and forth motion of the printer may be wiping away the ink that is being put down. Regular paper is not a problem and I can print sample decals just fine. It is only when I use the holographic silver shine that the problems. occur. I have printed labels successfully before with this printer but hate wasting the paper to test new settings and such. I figured if I got a new printer my problems may "go away".

I have tried normal settings, photo settings, premium photo settings and the results are the same. I have tried hand feeding the paper through, only one sheet of silver in the printer tray, just about everything I knew to try to get the paper to work again, and I just can't seem to make it work.

The ink takes longer to dry on the holo shine than on normal paper so any lines could be due to the paper feed and handling rollers the paper must pass through.

The print head shouldn't be touching the paper, so I doubt it's rubbing off any ink that has already been put down.

What a new printer may or may not do is going to be hard to say, unless you can find a dealer that will let you test a demo printer first. That may be hard to do.

.............

The ink takes longer to dry on the holo shine than on normal paper so any lines could be due to the paper feed and handling rollers the paper must pass through.

The print head shouldn't be touching the paper, so I doubt it's rubbing off any ink that has already been put down.

What a new printer may or may not do is going to be hard to say, unless you can find a dealer that will let you test a demo printer first. That may be hard to do.

About the only other thing I can think of would be to specifically post something here asking others that may have the printer you're after, if they use it with that paper and how it performs.

.............

If you have bubbles under the media film you have your answer. I have seen some really puffy paper that has been misshandled which allowed media separation prior to printing from the backing. The thickness of some of these bubbles will certainly be thick enough to touch a print head. If the sheet feeder is out of whack or running overspeed the media can hump up under the print head slightly and allow contact. It may not be noticed on media that dries at contact but will smear off on the coated papers. I have seen similar smearing when run tests at printer draft speed.

Remember that the roller of you printer are in contact with the paper - they can push a big bubble under the media in front of them and really cause a big hump in the media which can easily contact the print head.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/10/2009 02:41PM by Bill Stevens.

Hmmmmm? I have notice that the middle section of the leading edge of the paper has it comes out is krinkled a little. Almost as if it is peeling off. Guess that could be why I'm having problems. Thanks for the responses. Tom and Bill thanks for your expertise on the subject. I believe the print head is touching the paper and wiping the ink away. The first part is okay but then it progressively gets worse and fades to nothing. I pulled the ink cartridge and wiped them clean. I had a little build up on them. I tried to print after the wiping and the same thing happened. So I'm at my wits end.

Mr. Stevens, is there a way to get rid of or notice any bubbles before loading it into the printer?

Did you read posts on this board or watch the demonstration of proper use by Bobby Feazel in the Swampland Booth at the ICRBE. The first thing done on all the media is to use Scotch Tape to seal the leading edge of the media before it is fed to the printer. This little trick was included in the Rodmaker Magazine and demonstrated at the show. If this is not done the film covering the top of the media sheet can separate causing bubble areas under the covering. Curious did you seal the edge before feeding the media through the first time you ran the sheet?

Something else to try. Never saw the tape demo and didn't have a subscription to the magazine at that time. I will try taping the leading edge. Thank for help. I'll let ya'll know how the taping works

I'll bet The tape will do it!!!! Without the tape, I have seen the metallic layer actually separate peel back. Put the tape on acroos the length of the edge that feetds in and fold over to the back side. You only need to cover about a half inch, the length of the front AND back of the sheet

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/10/2009 10:02PM by Mike Barkley.

Any time a technique requires materials that cost a fair amount, it's wise to invest equally in the resources that will allow you to make the best use of those materials. One $7 copy of RodMaker Magazine, or a half hour spent reading through past posts on the subject here, might well have saved you untold time and money in wasted print media.

Just something to remember in the future.

................

Tom I agree with you. Research and experience are hard to beat. Particularly the experience part. I started my subscription with your magazine at the expo. In fact the latest issue in touching my elbow as I type. As a relative newbie to rod building I wasn't aware of many of the resources available to me. The expo was great and I learned so much my head spun. . . . . Back to the problem.

Tried the tape trick and got the same results. I tried to take a picture of what I'm talking about. I've never posted a picture on this site before so I hope I did it right.

This picture is of a good print job from my printer when I got the media back at the end of Feb 09. Worked great.

[www.rodbuilding.org]

This is the pic of the problem. I know it is hard to see with the shine effect, but see how it starts out fine then fades to junk? All the labels should look like the first photo and this is what I get everytime now. It is really frustrating every time it comes out like this I waste a buck 70.

[www.rodbuilding.org]

Any ideas on why this is occurring?

It almost has to have something to do with your printer. Try printing the decals on plain white paper. What happens? Same effect, or does it come out the same way?

................

plain paper is fine, prints perfect. It is just when I use the silver shine.

Then it would seem that the ink is simply not sticking to the media. I had this problem, although it appeared a bit different, with a newer Epson printer. I had to back down the percentage of ink being applied and then all was well.

At this point your best bet would seem to be in getting a new printer that others have used for this media and which have proven to work with it.

................

Thanks for all the help. I really appreciate you taking the time to help me. I'll try the ink setting thing, and if that doesn't work I may just hit the printer with a sledge hammer and go get a new one.

Thanks again.

Craig