My suggestion is to do nothing other than use an adequate number of guides for the rod you are building. This information is readily available. Beyond that, you may have fun breaking some blanks, but you will not improve anything. Using enough guides will provide you with adequate stress distribution and preserve the strength of the blank to the greatest degree possible. Educate your customer on
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Denis, You are obviously not privy to the latest advances in blank technology. They do not involve carbon fibers. Kevlar will not play a role. There is no prepeg involved. ...........
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A rose by any other name smells as sweet. And the spelling by any other name will be just as bad. ................
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The number of samples in the group has to do with the validity of the results. Even if the first 3 broke at exactly the same load (they won't) you'll have a hard time convincing anyone that has dealt with such testing that the next 3 will do the same. The bottom line is that Rohit is not going to increase or improve the deadlift limit with any sort of guide placement. If he ran the line throug
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You're going to have one major problem - no two blanks will be identical. Breaking one and then adding guides on another and comparing break strength will not provide accurate results. There is too much hand labor involved in blank construction to allow for verbatim construction. They're all likely to vary by as much as 5% anyway. But the location where the break occurs will be roughly the same,
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Nothing has changed on this end. Whatever you did to you computer is to blame. Maybe you cleared your browser cache. Maybe your update included a new browser version. I have no way to tell from my end. ............
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I forgot about that series of articles - we spec'd out a bunch of rods and then had builders in various areas of the U.S. price them according to their own methods. Another one in the series included various enhancements from decorative wraps to feather inlays and asked the same builders what they normally charged for those things. It's an eye opener. ...............
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I'd have to concur with Michael. The line only contacts the lower edge of the ring during outlay. So height is the real issue in that it will reduce the angle of the line as it leaves the reel and enters the butt/stripping guide. I've always used high frame SVSG or TSVSG style guides for the stripping guide. I'm not sure what is available in that style with a heavy, thick ring. But height can
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It's pretty firm. ..........
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Jonathan, It all depends on what your goals are in building these rods. To have fun and recover your cost plus a few bucks? Or to operate a small business and perhaps make enough money to justify the expense and effort of operating such a business. At cost plus $12.50 a foot, you're making very little money for your time, and more importantly, for your knowledge. I can't imagine ever makin
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Such methods have already been employed to make rod banks and if not for cutbacks in a certain company's R&D work due to new ownership it might already be on the market. In the future rod blanks will be molded or pultruded. And it won't be one of the blank companies you're familiar with that brings this newer blank manufacturing method to the market. .....................
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If you decide to shim, instead of tape, use thread. Spiral some size D up the blank where the grip will be located. Leave 1/8th inch between your spirals and then "screw" the grip into place over it. ...............
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Robert, If you locate that area between a pair of guides, the problem will not go away, in fact, it will likely be worse. But it is equally unlikely that you can make the problem go away by locating a guide directly on it - there's a lot more to it than that and a bad design can't be corrected by guide location. ..............
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As you move down the rod, just as the load will do, you do not need guides as close together as you do on areas further up the rod with less substantial structure. Good rod blanks, provided they do not go beyond a 90 degree bend, are not in danger of failing from stress related issues, unless and until they simply reach the limit of their design capability. In an earlier post, Richard made ma
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Just send them a cut of your winnings and they'll be happy. Seriously, they're very helpful to all who ask. .........
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Any carbon or carbon composite is going to be charcoal grey in color. If you see black, you're most likely looking at paint. If we're talking 20 years ago, G.Loomis, Inc. produced 3 different blank series. Regular graphite which was natural clear gloss. IM6 which were painted gloss burgundy, and IMX which were natural, unfinished, buffed charcoal grey. ................
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Any carbon or carbon composite is going to be charcoal grey in color. If you see black, you're most likely looking at paint. ................
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Companies leave the blank market when it ceases to be profitable for them to be in it. ...............
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MinWax does not recommend that product for exterior use. At least not the Polycrylic product I'm aware of. .................
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If it's a gloss grey, it is standard Narmco 33 million modulus fiber. It probably last a long time because the guy knows how to use his equipment and doesn't do dumb things with it. Unfortunately, time and luck caught up with him and his rod on this last one. ............
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Surf or Spinning. ..............
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If the ink isn't puddling or wrinkling on the surface of the media, I'm not sure that adjusting your ink percentage amount is going to solve your particular problem. In your case, it's just not sticking or staying on the media. ..............
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Then it would seem that the ink is simply not sticking to the media. I had this problem, although it appeared a bit different, with a newer Epson printer. I had to back down the percentage of ink being applied and then all was well. At this point your best bet would seem to be in getting a new printer that others have used for this media and which have proven to work with it. ..............
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There is only one way to prevent stressing a rod blank - don't bend it. Rod blanks are designed and constructed to handle the stress that results from using it in a normal fishing situation. If you use an adequate number of guides spaced reasonably well, you will not undermine the design nor construction of the blank. ............
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Such is the business world. For many years I offered rod repair to my customers. Often I'd inspect the rod for additional repairs that might be needed at the time the customer brought it in. That way, we could decide then and there if that work would proceed as well. Once in a while, however, I'd miss something and only discover it later when I was performing the original repair. In every case I'
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A "rocket scientist" would have a level of education that would allow for the expression of such concepts in concise and simple form. If you really understand something you can explain it with simple terms and in a simple manner. It's when you really don't understand something that your presentation takes on unnecessary rhetoric and associated word play. Denis has not raised any iss
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It almost has to have something to do with your printer. Try printing the decals on plain white paper. What happens? Same effect, or does it come out the same way? ................
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Good rod blanks are designed so that high stress points do not occur to the extent that the blank would be put in danger during the intended use. And yes, computer stress modeling software is used in the design of most modern blanks. For this reason, it is a non-issue for the custom rod builder. Poor designs fail quickly and are either removed from the market or redesigned. No amount of ca
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Any time a technique requires materials that cost a fair amount, it's wise to invest equally in the resources that will allow you to make the best use of those materials. One $7 copy of RodMaker Magazine, or a half hour spent reading through past posts on the subject here, might well have saved you untold time and money in wasted print media. Just something to remember in the future. ......
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A heavy duty Back Bouncing blank is your best bet. I believe several companies offer them in 7-footers and 2-piece design. ........
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