If it's dry, there should be no problem. Epoxies don't contain solvents. But try it on a scrap piece of blank just the same. Worst case scenario is that you'll have to seal it with some CP or a fixative spray. ..................
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If you plan to shape or turn it, you won't like RodBond between pieces of EVA. Use Weldwood Contact Cement. It makes a seamless joint between the EVA pieces. ................
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I suspect you'll see it this coming week. The USPS is having some problems and service has fallen off. Presorted 3rd class is taking a little longer than it used to. ..............
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No, not quite ready - but I can tell you that we had to shift some things around this year because we sold out every booth in the hall. Never before have we had this many vendors and exhibitors nor this type of variety. I am extremely pleased that after 7 years we continue to see growth each year, and this year, more growth than any other year thus far. The 2010 event will be the largest and ver
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Thread won't keep a guide foot from being pushed through a blank wall (thread is very soft) and I'd suspect that somebody simple used way too much tension when wrapping, but underwraps aren't going to hurt anything on such a heavy rod. I had 2 of the Fenwick 16810 up until a few weeks ago. I hated to sell them but really had no clue as to what I'd ever use them for. Steve Sink from Lexington p
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If you make the wrap snug and get the thread down close to the edge, it won't be an issue. ..............
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A is fine, but you might want to go larger - you won't incur much of a weight penalty on larger surf rods and may find C or D easier to wrap with over the larger guide feet. You don't need underwraps, but you won't hurt anything if you use them. If you do, use A for the underwrap and C or D for the overwrap. ..................
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If the burl chuck is coming out due to a poor quality process (the burl cork maker, not you) there isn't much you can do about it other than to try and glue it back in. I don't think anything you put on top of the burl is going to keep such chunks from coming out. .................
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Remember that when using a gel type epoxy such as RodBond, you want to apply the epoxy, then scrape it back off - as much as you can. There will be enough left to do what needs to be done and it will minimize glue lines and create a stronger bond. .............
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I think they're aiming for the segment of the market that's after all out performance - an unfinished blank is a lighter blank and you do reap some small measure of additional efficiency there. ...............
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What you may have to do is grind the edges of the feet away to make them slimmer. ...............
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I have both and they look identical to me. At one time the Clemens supports had plated uprights, but that would be about the only difference. ..............
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It depends on the reel he's going to use. If the reel is high enough that the line is going to rub on the top of the frame, then you'll want a double roller there to contain the line until the rod is heavily loaded and/or the line on the spool is diminished. You may be able to get by with a high frame, single roller. Just make sure you don't give him something that is going to cause line damag
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Most of it is from past issues of RodMaker. But some of it is brand new and has not appeared in RodMaker. ...............
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There are less than a half dozen places in the U.S. where you could walk into such a shop. ...........
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It doesn't tend to split - it folds up. Very thin walled tubing could split at the junction with the blank if you put enough stress on that point. But even that can be somewhat negated by a reinforcement wrap over the junction area just like what you do on ferrules. That's a very light blank and you may be okay. I'd opt for the 1/2 inch diameter variety over just moving to thicker walls if you
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In aluminum, that would be considered a very thin walled tube. However, for such a light rod and with the use of very light line, you may get by with it. What is the diameter you'll be using? ................
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I understand. In that case you may have done all you can do. I think a lighter fly blank might do better with such a small amount of weight. I'm guessing that your 8-weight is going to do better with about 3/8th to 1/2 ounce. ...................
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I wouldn't have used a fly rod blank for that application. A very light popping rod or the lightest hot shot rod might have been better, although as Jim said, with just 1/8th ounce, you're only going so far. ...............
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Not trying to spank anyone, but due to the material used and the point where your tool contacts the workpiece, an accident doesn't push you away from the lathe - it pulls you into it. This is a great technique but no one should enter into it lightly. And please do not try to learn how to do it by watching youtube videos - they weren't done as instructional pieces and many of the practices you see
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The thinner disks can be used, but spinning produces heat and with the leverage involved you end up stretching the metal. Start with a disk that is too thin and you end up with something that has paper thin walls. ............................
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Be very, very careful about how you obtain your disks. NEVER attempt to spin a disk that you've cut out by hand with snips or shears. Don't even think about it. Please read the cautions outlined in the article. Most machine shops have a tool known as a "circle shearer." You want disks that have been cut on such a machine. I listed a source in the article in the sidebar on page 15
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All that information is listed right on the form on their website: North Fork Composites 2617 NE 434th Street Woodland, WA 98674 U.S.A. ............
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I'll tell you, that just doesn't sound right. I'd return it. ...........
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An overall curve or warp between butt and tip, even a pretty good one, isn't a problem and is quite common. But a sudden crook is a different matter. ....................
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There are indeed some good metal spinning videos on youtube, but you aren't going to find the specifics of metal turning in them - you'll just see the process in action, which may be enough to get you interested seeking out the specifics on how to do it. It looks easy, which it is, sort of. But like most things, details make the difference between getting good results and just wasting metal. H
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There is another way to do this - build the rod in a straight-thru design so the blank provides most of the strength there on the butt. You can make your own gimball, buy one or whatever. Then make your own butt from wood or whatever and install the same seat that normally is part of the uni-butt. .............
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Yes, they're very attractive and are indeed chameleon in their color changing appearance. Ron will be a good person to turn to. He and his wife have been doing this a long time and they know the business and the craft very well. ..............
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Russell, If you check Jon's earlier post I think you'll see that they consider any additional cosmetic touches to be "gravy" and while appreciated, are not required. What they're looking for is competency. A perfect finish on a guide wrap is likely to be less important than being able to build something that functions very well. In other words, a 7 foot rod with just 3 guides albeit
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