I would think it's just a matter of taping on a set of guides and trying them. The chart does not place guides per the New Guide Concept System. It places Concept Guides. ...................
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I use hot melt on all my tiptops. But then I make a thread wrap just beyond the tiptop tube and wrap up and onto the tiptop tube. Carry your finish epoxy onto the thread and the tiptop will be locked in placed - a hot day or storage in a hot area won't move it. To remove, you slice the thread wrap, peel off the thread and epoxy and then gently heat the tiptop. ................
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Fuji coined the term "New Guide Concept" and it is their system. And, they do suggest a pretty good number of guides - a lot of guides, really. What I have modified in the system since I began working with it and writing on it in RodMaker are a more concrete means of locating the choker guide and a reduction in total guide number. On Don's chart, the part about locating "Conc
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I came up with it (just pulled it out of the air) as a stopgap measure until Dr. Hanneman could address the issue better in his Universal Rod Rating System. If you have RodMaker Volume 10 #4 you can find it in there. If not, it may be on the photo page here somewhere. If not there, I'll try to put it up tomorrow. The funny thing is that the figures he arrived at are very close to what my fo
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Not sure that was my tip, but it's a good one nonetheless. ...............
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I thought I might have misread that. Sorry. ..........
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Bobby, I have absolutely no idea, but I'm fairly certain it's not to help prevent breakage. ........... Joe, The angle between the line/guides changes as the flex in the rod changes/moves. That's not the point of the chart. The "Equal Angle" concept had to do with plotting the guide positions by means of a set of lines, an equal amount of degrees apart, to intersectio
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We just finished breaking 200 rod blanks by any and all manner of abuse and torture you can imagine. On those rods which were taken to failure either by a deadlift overload or by extreme high-sticking (butt pointed straight up, tip straight down) not a single blank broke anywhere near the tiptop. Even the high-stick failures occurred much farther back than that. The only way you'll get a fish
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I'm sure the Clemens book on custom rod thread art will have complete details on Tartan wraps. Not sure about Billy Vivona's book, but that one may have instructions as well. ..............
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Roger, This may not be anything at all close to what you're wanting to build, but if you can get any ideas from it I hope it proves helpful. Good luck. As you can see, it started life as a commercial industrial steel bench. ................
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Properly constructed, it may deflect, but you'll never know it unless you have some pretty high resolution measuring tools. I can assure anyone that a well made bench is still going to read flat by a standard steel rule or level gauge. None of my benches record even a half millimeter of deflection in the very middle, and that's with me standing on them. Beyond that, you never want to mount any
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I just put the preliminary floor plan for the 2010 International Custom Rod Building Exposition on the photo page. .................
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There's really only one way to find out if that size guide will pass your required parts and pieces - try it. Someone else might be using a similar set up and will hopefully chime in, but if not, you'll just have to string some up and see how things pass. I typically use a larger ring guide for the bumper guide, but use a low frame type and bend/shape it so that it sits down close to the blank
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It's not going to cause any sort of unnatural flex. That wouldn't be an issue. It will add weight at the worst possible place, however, so unless it's actually doing something for you, i.e. solving some sort of problem or improving some aspect of overall performance, you'll have to decide if it's worth the trade off in additional weight, slight as it may be. But again, that is the worst place
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John, There are ladies and youngsters that read and use this website. Please watch your language per our rules. Thanks. .................
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The greater the flex in the butt section, the straight your line path will be through the Simple Spiral wrap. Just remember to use a larger ring for the bumper guide and/or position it per the instructions at 100 to 110 degrees. ............
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I don't think it's ground breaking - I've been using them (SVSG) for more than 20 years in this capacity. It's higher and tends to reduce line slap a bit. .................
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I would use a high frame spinning type 16, followed by the same in a 10, and then size 8's the rest of the way out. That would be in ceramic single foot sizes. You can likely switch those 8's to 6's if you don't need to pass any sort of head to running line connection. ................
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There is no reason to use a lot of different sized guides - it does nothing for you. Smaller guides, provided they are large enough to pass your required connections, reduce weight which nearly always pays a dividend of some sort, whether it be in balance, sensitivity, line path, etc. Next time you have a fish on the line and he makes a few strong runs, reach up and touch a guide. How hot does
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A heat gun can easily put out enough concentrated heat to harm a rod blank. I'd stick with the hair dryer if I used any heat at all. ...............
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The butt guide is determined by the reel width and height so be mindful of that. The only thing I would add to what Greg offered is that the smallest guide you can use has to be able to pass your line and any connections. I don't know what those will be but let's assume that's an 8. If so, you can use size 8's all the way along the bottom of the rod. You really only need 2 guide sizes on this
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Gene Bullard was probably the first, packing a Duro Company product he named Diamond 1-Coat in the mid 60’s. It would have been the first such product aimed at coating rod wrapping threads. By the late 1970’s Gene had sourced a new product to his specs and named it Diamond II. It might have been the very first epoxy designed specifically to be used as a thread wrap coating. If you read his in
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The spiral wrap had nothing to do with the poor casting performance. Most likely you don't have the right amount of casting weight for the power in the blank, or vice versa. While it isn't likely to have had much to do with anything, you're using way too many different sizes of guides. Put all the guides on top and build it as you normally would. Get the guides set so that you get your best d
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ERN = 17. Use the casting lure weight information which the manufacturer supplied for the blank. ..............
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I appreciate the suggestion but the Expo seminars will remain focused on custom rod building methods and techniques. Anyone that wishes to learn CPR and related life saving techniques can certainly do so right in their own hometown. The Red Cross and other medical outfits routinely offer such programs and seminars all across the U.S. ..................
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There shouldn't be an problems with long term durability. ................
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The best temperature for curing the epoxy is room temperature. ABout 70F to 75F. For every 18F to 20F increase in temperature, you will halve the cure time from what it was at about 70F to 75F. .................
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Depends on the vendor and where they're getting it. The older type was made from slivers and random pieces of burl cork. The newer type, often sold under the name "burl" is a composition cork made from ground bits and pieces. It reminds me of chipboard. About all you can do is ask your vendor what the stuff he's selling looks like and go from there. Send him a photo of what you're af
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If you go back a couple decades, there weren't separate guide types for spinning and casting. One size fit all. And that's still true to some extent today - the line isn't concerned with the frame style. But since you can get extra height with specialty spinning frames, I'd use them. Anything in the high frame SVSG (or similar) type spinning guide, reduced quickly to a choke guide and then low
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Possibly, but it will probably continue without me. At any rate, I'm concentrating on the 2010 event and have been extremely pleased with how it's shaped up. When I did the first one 7 years ago, it was tough convincing companies that they would benefit by exhibiting. This year I've had to start turning them away. Not enough room in a 40,000 square foot hall to handle them all. It's going to b
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