I understand. In that case you may have done all you can do. I think a lighter fly blank might do better with such a small amount of weight. I'm guessing that your 8-weight is going to do better with about 3/8th to 1/2 ounce. ...................
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I wouldn't have used a fly rod blank for that application. A very light popping rod or the lightest hot shot rod might have been better, although as Jim said, with just 1/8th ounce, you're only going so far. ...............
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Not trying to spank anyone, but due to the material used and the point where your tool contacts the workpiece, an accident doesn't push you away from the lathe - it pulls you into it. This is a great technique but no one should enter into it lightly. And please do not try to learn how to do it by watching youtube videos - they weren't done as instructional pieces and many of the practices you see
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The thinner disks can be used, but spinning produces heat and with the leverage involved you end up stretching the metal. Start with a disk that is too thin and you end up with something that has paper thin walls. ............................
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Be very, very careful about how you obtain your disks. NEVER attempt to spin a disk that you've cut out by hand with snips or shears. Don't even think about it. Please read the cautions outlined in the article. Most machine shops have a tool known as a "circle shearer." You want disks that have been cut on such a machine. I listed a source in the article in the sidebar on page 15
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All that information is listed right on the form on their website: North Fork Composites 2617 NE 434th Street Woodland, WA 98674 U.S.A. ............
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I'll tell you, that just doesn't sound right. I'd return it. ...........
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An overall curve or warp between butt and tip, even a pretty good one, isn't a problem and is quite common. But a sudden crook is a different matter. ....................
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There are indeed some good metal spinning videos on youtube, but you aren't going to find the specifics of metal turning in them - you'll just see the process in action, which may be enough to get you interested seeking out the specifics on how to do it. It looks easy, which it is, sort of. But like most things, details make the difference between getting good results and just wasting metal. H
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There is another way to do this - build the rod in a straight-thru design so the blank provides most of the strength there on the butt. You can make your own gimball, buy one or whatever. Then make your own butt from wood or whatever and install the same seat that normally is part of the uni-butt. .............
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Yes, they're very attractive and are indeed chameleon in their color changing appearance. Ron will be a good person to turn to. He and his wife have been doing this a long time and they know the business and the craft very well. ..............
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Russell, If you check Jon's earlier post I think you'll see that they consider any additional cosmetic touches to be "gravy" and while appreciated, are not required. What they're looking for is competency. A perfect finish on a guide wrap is likely to be less important than being able to build something that functions very well. In other words, a 7 foot rod with just 3 guides albeit
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I think you're going to have to visit the various manufacturer websites and compare the uni-butt ferrules to their mating uni-butts and then compare to the stand alone seats. It shouldn't be hard to do. ............
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Make sure you understand what he means by sensitive - he may be wanting visual strike indication and be less concerned with feel. ................
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The trouble with moving the reel seat is that you tend to negate the reasons why you put it in a particular place to begin with - to fit the angler? To allow two-handed casting? For greater comfort or function? There are times when balance can be very important, but for most anglers in most situations I think that other considerations trump the balance thing. Putting the handle where it allows
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Roger, I never had any doubt you were just trying to help the guy out. No problem. ............
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PermaGloss will give an "eggshell" finish if you apply enough coats to build noticeable depth. Generally, it works well on thread and provides superior protection to epoxy in about 4 to 5 coats. But not everyone likes the way it looks. Then again, some prefer that look. If you'll go to the photo page and look under my name, you should be able to find a series of photos I put up a few
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It's very flexible. ....................
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Just email it directly to Grant. That way my sponsors won't jump on me. Thanks. ..............
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You don't need full contact - a couple or thread 1-inch arbors will be more than enough on most such tubing. If you're that close at the butt, just a couple further up, even shorter ones, will be sufficient. If you do go with a full length arbor, of the urethane type sold by Flex Coat or several other distributors, you won't incur much of a weight penalty due to them being so very light. On
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That's a good idea - weigh the plug, because the ones we'll have will be weighed to ensure they're exact. They're hard rubber and tear-drop in shape. The line attaches to the small end. ..........
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You asked about Tackleworks, Joe Douglas' program and "certified rod builders." I have direct knowledge of all 3 because I was consulted on 2 of them and own the other, so I answered. I was also around when Gary started G. Loomis, Inc and listened to all the stuff about how the "gloomis" stuff would never take off. I have direct knowledge of how that turned out so I offere
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A 3/8th ounce casting plug will be standard for all contestants. You can buy them at Bass Pro Shop or Cabelas. ..............
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It's not against the rules to post mention of a non-sponsor. But I sincerely hope folks who get any value from this forum and its related features will take into consideration those companies that help pay the bills here. Please give the sponsors your first shot at the business - it's rare that somebody listed in the sponsor column to the left wouldn't have a product or item you need. I d
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PermaGloss is much, much harder and more abrasion resistant than any epoxy. .............
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Are you using a sleeve or tube? ............
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Rolly, Tackleworks has been very successful for many of those listed there. For others not as much. But it's not the same type program that North Fork is offering. Joe Douglas never offered anything like this. Being a "certified rod builder" means nothing unless fishermen recognize and respect the person or persons offering the certification. Gary Loomis is pretty well known an
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You aren't giving away anything - you're getting something, something that would cost you far more than if you had to purchase it outright. Keep in mind the cost of doing business - things like advertising. This kind of international advertising exposure would cost you thousands of dollars on most venues but North Fork is offering to give it to you for nothing more than the cost of one rod. And,
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Hopefully what they send will look much like the photo they provided. The large rings are hard to find these days in the better stuff. ..............
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If you ever find a photographic standard for what constitutes "flor" grade, please forward it along. By the way, the term "flor" cork came from Gene Bullard's use of the word "Floret" to describe his best rings at that time. .............
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