This will help you more than my text description will. ............
Forum: rodboard

Ken actually wrote an article for us in the Volume 11 #2 issue of RodMaker that showed how to mount a standard casting guide as a tiptop. That way, you can get the ring size you want and fit the guide to any size blank tip. In effect. you bend one foot to wrap under the blank, and leave one to wrap on top. It actually looks nice and works very well. ................
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Because of the way they're made, a perfectly straight rod blank is going to be very hard to come by. The thing is, an overall gentle bend does not in any way harm a blank or its performance. What you don't want is a sudden crook or dog leg at a definite point anywhere along the blank. If you get such a thing, return it. Also keep in mind that with a perfectly straight rod blank, once you mou
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Rob has removed the link to this gentleman's website so this can return to a civil discourse about the subject of guide number and sensitivity, not anything personal. ..............
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My scales are showing the Minima's to be only 2/3rds the weight of the others. I'll try to take a handful across the street to Valspar today and have them weighed on one of their lab scales. ............
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Are you talking about seats such as the one on the last issue of RodMaker? If so I think I can help you. .............
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Mr. Statler, who operates the website Rob linked to, sent me an email concerning this topic and just as I stated above, he is sincere in his beliefs. He is not attempting to purposely mislead anyone. I defended Mr. Statler several times above - not necessarily his statements on friction and guide numbers, but him personally. He also registered and wished to respond under this topic and I woul
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My weights show them (the Minimas) to be lighter. I'll re-weigh tomorrow just to check. ..........
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Good advice, thanks. Because the tax is considered part of the first point of sale, some states may consider it taxable as well. ..........
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Over the years I have settled on just starting each wrap about 2mm off the end of the guide foot. I do this mainly to save weight but it does reduce your ability to express yourself in additional colors and trim wraps. At least on the guide wraps. If you simply want to keep things looking good aesthetically, try starting a single mm off the end of the tip-most guide, then add a mm on each su
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Yes, several have had the same problem. Steve Gardner just finished up a piece for RodMaker and mentioned this same thing. There is a surface coating on the tubing that you'll have to deal with. I haven't used it so I'm not really qualified to tell you what the problem is or how to deal with it, but you aren't the first person to run into this situation. ............
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Yes. ...........
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Doug, If you were to measure, by mechanical means, sensitivity in terms of vibration through the rod, you'd find that even adding the weight at the butt will reduce sensitivity. In your case with the weight removed from the butt, it wasn't that the rod's sensitivity was reduced - it was most likely because it put the rod in a position that was not where it needed to be in order to detect a
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It's not wet when you wrap it, so it's not being stretched to that extent to begin with. Most thread expands a bit when you hit it with CP and then shrinks back to its original state. If you apply epoxy directly, the wrap loses a bit of tension because the thread can't shrink back once the epoxy sets. None of this should be of any real concern. .............
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RodMaker Volume 12 #4. Just about any subject related to anything in rod building has been covered, or more often was originally unveiled, in RodMaker. ............
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I'm being kind because like many builders, I think he is just engaging in wishful thinking - or what seems to make sense to the untrained. He may actually believe the statements he has on his website. Those statements you point out are certainly wrong, but I don't think they were put there to intentionally mislead anyone. He's wrong, but I tend to think he's also sincere. .............
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I posted under the photo. It was most likely made in the late 1950's to early 1960's. Some type of acrylic lacquer or varnish would have been used on the wraps. You can duplicate it with something like a couple coats of Permagloss. It has little monetary value, but appears to be a nice keepsake. ............
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For starters, I believe one has ceramic rings (American Tackle) and one has hard chrome rings (Pacific Bay). ...............
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It should be located per the individual user. Have him hold the rod blank and make a few casting motions. Watch where he naturally grasps the rod. Mark that location. Now have him hold the rod as if he's fighting a fish. Pull on the rod a bit and see where he puts his rod hand. Note the location of his rod hand. Mark that location. Now work with those marks. Compromise between them if poss
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Barry, Pretty much, yes. The line has no way of knowing that the guide has been offset - it's still a circle. ..........
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The amount of friction between the line and the guides doesn't change just because you offset them to one side or the other. You can move the guides up, down, over, etc., and the friction there isn't going to change. If here were to have someone else hold the rod and view them from the side, he would notice that the angle of the line to the guide ring from the line hand, will be the same no matte
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I don't want to knock what a custom builder is doing to market and promote his work. But there are some things we know to be true and other things we know to be false. So having said that, this builder is correct in saying that friction between the guides and line does not really have much to do with reducing casting distance. There is very little friction between the line and the guides on the
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This may not help you, but you know you can make them yourself for pennies. And that way get whatever size you need. ...........
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Depends on what you're doing. Income? Profit or Loss statement? FET? ..............
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Keep in mind that your hand will be the same size regardless of the size or weight of the rod. You also have to accommodate a certain size reel foot in whatever reel seat you choose. Don't make the mistake of buying or crafting a diminutive seat and grip in order to make things aesthetically pleasing to your eye, only to find out that you've given up the functional end of things. .............
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If you want to balance a rod at all, you need to do so in such a way that it balances at whatever point is appropriate for the specific use of the rod. What you find to be an acceptable balance point for one type rod may not be acceptable for another or different type rod. ...............
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Not necessarily. Give it until the end of this week. Mine only arrived in the last few days. ............
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RodMaker Magazine has the information you are seeking. In a nutshell, you never need more than 3 guide sizes - a stripping guide, one intermediate size and then the running guides. You don't need multiples of all the various sizes. You will get a straighter line path and reduce the weight on the rod by omitting all those in-between sizes. On the rod you mention, I would use a high frame (sp
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It will add weight, but due to the fact that the weight will be right in the hand it's not going to harm the rod performance to any real degree. Consider boring your grip oversize and then shimming with lightweight cork or foam to fit. This will also help to keep weight to a minimum. ..............
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Pat, No, sorry. You can't do that. Booth sharing is not allowed - only one entity per booth is allowed. This has been a standing rule for all 7 Expos and you will find this to be very similar to the rules at most professional consumer and trade shows out there. Bill Cason (Cason's Custom Finishes) has a booth at the Expo and you can wear anything you want promoting his business. But your
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