If you decide to go spiral I would look at the OQuinn spiral method where a surf rod is concerned. Or if you just stick with guides on the top you can consider something like what that rod in conventional form would have used way back when. Probably something like 20, 16, 12, 12, 12, 12, 12, 12 and a top to match. I think on something that heavy you can do it with just seven or eight guides.
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Congrats. Always a feather in the cap for ALL custom rod builders when anything is won when using custom rods.
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Nothing unusual about this. Back in the day Bullard had his Diamond Coat and then Diamond II. Clemens offered Crystal Coat and Super Poly Build as their house brands. House brands are good ideas for those that can afford to buy and package their own products. Sometimes its probably the same product you are already buying under a different label, but half the fun of rod building is trying new stuf
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Question......did your mandrel have a shouldered area cut into the portion that chucks into the chuck? The reason I mention this is because the ones that are just straight have a habit of slipping back into the chuck and pulling away from the tailstock live center. I have switched all mine to the shoulder style from Backlash due to this added safety and convenience feature. If you have the regula
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20 year warranty against what....breakage or defects?
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If the heat does not work, pack in ice for a half hour and then use a strap wrench to break the nut loose. I have done this and once I got it free it was easy to pick and poke the offending epoxy out of the threads. This is a mistake you only make ONCE!
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I put a THIN layer of epoxy on the underwraps. This makes a stronger based and really simplifies making the overwrap. Also if you do this you can use A size thread for BOTH the underwrap and the overwrap. If you do not coat the underwrap with something you just about have to use a small thread on the bottom and a larger thread on top.
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I would do the cold thing. Wrap a bag of ice around it for fifteen minutes and then try it. Also if you wind a big band of tape around the rod blank on both sides of the ferrule it will give you something to grab onto and you can put more twisting pressure into it. You want to TWIST not PULL the ferrule apart.
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Noticed REC was gone to. But that Casons and MHX were new. Guess they come and go month to month or year to year.
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Sometimes this squeeking noise is not the guide itself but the contact of the epoxy onto the guide leg or foot. Just something to be aware of.
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I mentioned the same thing the other day in the other thread on humidity. My best results have come when the rain is in full force outside. No dust, no pollen and no flying insects!
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Or..........put a photo on the photo page so others can see it.
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Since this would seem to be something where there is no right or wrong answer, just do it whichever way you prefer.
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Asking which has the better action is like asking which has the better color. It all depends on what your personal taste is.
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South Bend Bait company was started by FG Worden around the turn of the 20th century in South Bend, IN. They made mostly lures and then branched out into rods and reels in the 1940s. They sold to Gladding Corporation in 1958. Gladding divested most of its many outdoor brands in the 1980s and somebody bought South Bend and today imports fishing tackle made overseas. Thats about all I know about th
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I thought more than one person cast it. I was wrong then. But it does not change the facts that everyone cast in the same direction against the same crosswind and everyone used the SAME casting plug. So all that is a wash. Everyone knew going in how much weight was going to be cast and that it was going to be a rubber plug not a lead weight. Part of rod building is selecting the right blank for t
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Split it straight down and then pop it open like a clam by inserting a screwdriver or chisel in the opening.
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I was not getting a laugh. And I know that many people cast extreme distances with their rods UNTIL they got to the competition. Then all those extra long distances suddenly dropped. My point is that all the engineering concepts and theories are great on paper but for whatever reason they do not always pan out in the real world. A matter of not applying them correctly maybe, I do not know. But t
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That would be either 8 or 9 guides on a six and a half foot rod. I think you could possibly drop one more and still get the job done.
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Do you remember the rod Eugene submitted for the distance contest at the Expo? Need I say more???? Concepts and theories are one thing but results are another. Eugene's math may look good on paper but it looked terrible out on the casting field. No offense to Eugene. But the proof is always in the pudding. As I recall his rod finished near the bottom of the pack even with two different people ca
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I was under the idea that they are stainless steel with hard chrome inserts so they should hold up pretty well. But like Jim said anything you put in saltwater and do not take really good care of is going to reap the penalty of the salt at some point.
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I do not believe what you are attempting is possible. There are to many variables involved to be able to say that for a certain height or weight a fishermen should buy X length rod for the most distance, or most accuracy, or whatever. I have read through this topic several times and still cannot believe it will deliver any real information as to any sort of definitive information on the correct
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The Diamond II I have IS a high build epoxy. Have they introduced a lite or lower build version?
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The Cannon printers I have used in the last few years all seem to do really deep blacks. Not sure about current offerings though.
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Not my intent to spread bad info. Sorry if I did. But I do know that without the CCS the RDA would never have come about and would not exist today. It was not an original system. It was taken from the CCS by modifying some aspects of the CCS.
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It is not part of the CCS but was taken FROM the CCS Big Picture where you are working with specific lengths of a given rod and not necessarily the entire length of the blank. I have heard of at least that one and one other "system" that were spawned from the CCS.
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Rubbing alcohol will do what you want and it will evaporate quick enough that nothing is harmed. Water will do the same but will take a LONG time to fully evaporate so you can apply finish.
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> On the rods I sell the guide I call a MICRO guide > IS the proper size. I am not interested in OTHER > rods. > > So, on the rods you sell you use the smallest guide that will still do the required job. But what about OTHER rods? That statement works for ALL rods. Telling someone they should use micro guides will NOT work for all rods. The smallest guide that will still d
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Bill Stevens Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > > Why have do you insist on the use of the phrase " > the smallest guide possible that will do the job"? > > Because thats the proper sized guide for ANY rod. On some rods it may be what you call a micro guide while on other rods it will be something larger. What you do NOT wan
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Bill Stevens Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Anglers have accepted micro rods. > Not so fast! While I have always believed in the rule to use the smallest guides possible that will still do the job, the idea that all fishermen want or accept micro guides is more than a stretch. Most do not even know about them. I think we need to be realistic when ma
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