I'm with the others here an X-fast tip doesn't stop me from using treble hooks, especially when the blank doesn't have mag bass backbone like this blank does not. Salmon/steelhead anglers have been using X-fast tipped rods for plugs for many many years, in fact it is a design criteria for hot shot blanks.
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You can also get pink in the CTS blanks if you need a lighter performance blank. I've seen a pink Lamiglas steeelhead blank and fire engine red surf blanks at the factory too.
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Little river, low water flows, browns and cutbows, 8 to 15 inches with an occasional bigger one during the spawn.
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I wouldn't think you need a larger transition guide than an 8. I'd use a high frame 12 before a 16 stripper. Another blank I'd look at for a shorter rod would be the Lamiglas RR902MT.
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Only one way to improve bad cork I know of. Flock it.
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Madeira 60 is smaller thread, you'd think 60 would be smaller still.
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The new ATC catalog looks like some of the Shikari designs maybe over here now.
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Doesn't take much in the line of tools to build rods for yourself. When you need to do it faster is when it escalates. Built rods for many years with a hand wrapper. You'll be surprised how fast you can wrap using one in a very short time. A supply of reamers, a few diamond or fine files for guide foot preparation, exacto knife or razor blades and you about have it. A few supplies and your in bus
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That would be my guess.
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Good blanks, have lots of personal rods built on them.
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Brett, Pac Bay used to have a factory in California that built their made in the USA blanks back in the 90's. Think it closed in the late 90's, Sabre which was owned by Pac Bay was also built there.
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Alex, You can build them also easily with a drill bit and a hand drill. Take a regular rear grip and cut 2 1/2 inches off each end. Now just slide the grip pieces on the drill bit with the side your working on closest to the chuck. Turn on the drill and shape to suit your application with a litttle sand paper. They shape up very quickly. Doing you own you can modify the shape/ end diameter to s
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It may be Grodbrod 1892 Olive Green and the finish is probably spar varnish. It will contribute a little in the brown hue. Best to compare colors by cutting the wrap off and looking at the bottom of the thread for a true thread color.
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The two corks are built the same way, Andy's is just built a bit denser. Burl cork will hold up a couple time better than cork, but is also proportionally heavier due to the density of glue and cork.
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Jack, Look back a few days in the posts, someone said those blanks may be coming back. Fastest way would probably to put Harnell in the search engine.
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Buzz, Does it have both tips?
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Have tried full skeleton spinning and casting reelseats they are light, but not at all comfortable to fish all day. At least for me they aren't . Having something between the skeleton pieces at least on the top half of a spinning seat is more comfortable. The reel's foot takes care of the bottom. An 18mm NPS reelseat with nothing else is about right for my hands and very comfortable with the thre
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Chris, No I've never used or seen the 7 1/2 ft blank. Angler's has the S Glass version of some of the E glass blanks for just a couple dollars more listed in their catalog. The part number stops with a "SB" instead of a "B".
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Thanks for the info Billy.
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It's a good strong thread, I have a Perigee PLB901MT 30 lb livebait rod, PSH 102 2MT salmon/steelhead, PFT 1085/6 and 9/10 flyrods wrapped with Sulky evergreen metallic that blends into the blank color, I've had no problems in the last 3 years or so.
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After reading Rich Forhan's book "Powerhand Baitcasting" you can narrow down your rod needs to 5 or 6 rods for just about anything you need to throw at bass. His blank selections are a little outdated as the Lamiglas Certified Pro blanks are no longer made, but the IM 700 blanks and he XMG50 blanks make up for the loss with similar blanks. Have been a Lamiglas fan for many years, I've
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One of my GUSA bass customers just brought this blank in today. He hasn't any idea what it would be good for here in the Pacific Northwest, and neither do I, except general bottom fishing, so I thought I'd ask what other people have used it for?
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The bumper guide is only there to keep the line of the blank, you're only looking for a little height here nothing else. Lager guides don't help here.
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As Billy said they are a bit heavier, not greatly so,but very hardy. Don't know how to discribe it, but because of the small diameter and the way they are built they seem very dense compared to other blanks. Not weight dense so much, but structurally dense. Have seen pictures of them running full size Broncos over them without collapsing the blank. I tried them after Rich Forhan suggested them s
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These are just blanks I've seen or heard of others using in CA when I get down there. I've only used the 711H. And frankly like my Rainshadow better, but I haven' t fished the big monster, expensive swims. Don't have the depth of water with bass in it here in the Pacific Northwest, at least where I've fished. My favorite lake is only about 12 ft deep in one spot. I only fish bass between salmon/s
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Spinnerbaits/jerks/topwater/carolina rig/spoons : C663DHX or 703DHX. Tubes/sliders/senko/long distance finesse/small cranks : C65M or C70M. Close in dock tubes : C60M. Cranks : UR703 or UR704 for deep cranks. Heavy swims : C711H, 85 Mag, 80 Monster Mag. Jigs/Worms : C664DHX or C704DHX. I like a lighter powered blank for carolinas, but some like the C704DHX. Not a fan of their flipp
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Make a decent tomato stake also. Don't lose the seperate theader or you'll never get line back in the rod again.
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Henry, You need to give use more info. Blank Color? Factory rod? How long have you owned it? Tip and butt diameters? Initially it sounds like maybe a SJ 723, 8 to 15 lb, 3/16 to 5/8 oz lures. They are a fine rod that seems to be at their best at around 12 lb line. Works well with jigging spoons, and plastics, even in deeper water due to the strong butt. Doesn't make a bad spinnerbait rod fo
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All the sponsors to the right would be happy to get rid of a bunch of stuff. I would use a good quality product and stay with it as much as possible. That way as you go from one rod to the next you always have a few components to get you though the next build, and it's much easier to keep a common supply instead of a bunch of different components, styles and colors. All my personal rods use the s
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John, Still not enough info. Don't you know what your fishing for, and how? Fishing rods are like golf clubs, you need the right one for the conditions at hand.
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