Rod Bond is an adhesive NOT a wrap covering epoxy! There epoxies specially made for covering the wraps. Use the "search" feature above to get information on coating a rod blank.
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Using small single foot guides reduces the weight added to the blank. As fly rod guides are under the rod, the main thing is distributing the stress as equally as possible along the rod as Tom mentions above. In most cases. fly casting does not involve line passing through the guides, exception being shooting line, so guide size has no effect on distance. I build only fly rods and use small si
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Another option, is to sand smooth a narrow band where the guides are to be finally placed.
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Cork is a closed cell structure, so it will NOT absorb liquids. Many have tried water based, solvent based, vacuum and pressure methods, they don't work! Staining and over coating with a finish like Perma Gloss like Col mentions should work if you like the finished feel.
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Use it exclusively after using most of the other methods for some periods. I find it to be the quickest and easiest method after you go through the learning curve. After it is stuck on, you go right to wrapping and have nothing to remove and discard. It allows adjustment after warping and I find even with some larger movement, the adhesive stays on the guide, not the blank. I'll keep watc
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The chance of getting one half of the ferrule to fit properly is very remote, and don't know anyone who would sell only half the set. Better to replace both pieces.
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I live in the California Bay Area and make the trip each year..................................WELL WORTH THE COSTS!!!
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Bill, I'm sure all on this forum like myself, offer our sincere condolences and prayers!
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George, I don't think anyone was questioning you experience or credentials! The point about tippet sizes, has to do with the rigidity of the Sage One. Fishing with 5, 6 and 7X is quite common with a 5wt rod, especially in streams and rivers where the fish are spooky. I am in complete agreement that the Sage One is the most accurate rod I have cast, but my whole point is that there is more to
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Most of the regs regarding carbon fiber have to do with export, not import. Additionally, Japan is one of the largest manufacturers of carbon fiber materials.
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Test casting a rod at a dealer does not tell you much about how it fishes.
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Sounds like they are too loose. Also if you used the Forhan locking wrap you would not be able to pull a single foot "out." See the Library for instructions on this wrap. Having never used Perma Gloss on wraps, I can't comment re it. The right tensions will allow you to move the guides a little before coating, but should not be loose.
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Don't know why you can't see the many other sources for ring tones using Google. I used it "reel ring tones" and found numerous reel ring tone sources.
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Built one, a 5wt. It is EXTREMELY fast, not for everyone. In my estimation one needs to be a very accomplished caster. It also is hard on light tippet fish sets.
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J P, I'm one who does not attend the Expo to purchase things (although I always do), I attend to learn more about our craft, and as you know only too well, I've learned an awful lot from you! As for my purchases, it is usually things I cannot find elsewhere or is something new to me. Coming in from California makes it difficult to take back a lot of merchandise. Like others above the social
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Very glad they are back!!! Great lines of products and friendly service oriented staff. They are my major supplier.
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If you do end up sanding the rod, a coat of Perma Gloss is a good choice to recoat for a gloss finish.
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It may work, but I have had two rubberized rod butts fail, Si I now use epoxy to be certain. I think it due to the fact that there is more rubber than cork in the composites.
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Note that the .584 is larger then the B1012, so it may require a little sanding to fit.
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Measure the insert OD's at each end of the one you have, the OD's of the B101 inserts are: .645 & .580 respectively.
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Batson RX6 in either weight fits your criteria,, but in my opinion the RX7 would be a better choice for that type of fishing.
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There is a product called "Goo Gone" it is very good at removing adhesives left by tape and self adhesive labels. I use it a lot and find no residue left from it.
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If you want them all of equal length, I have found the simplest method to be: after wrapping the first one to the desired length, cut a strip of paper to exactly that width, this then becomes your "gauge" for subsequent wraps. A more exact way is to count the wraps as you go..................LOL
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Tom is correct.
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Whats up with Mike?
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I agree with Roger, no worries!
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The only time I have seen this problem on a "butt over ferrule" is when the builder put a wrap on the male piece too close to the tip, which did not allow the ferrule to seat all the way down. If the tapers are correct at the ferules they should mate cleanly and firmly, sometimes too firmly, making it difficult to disassemble! Another trick is to do what many Spey rod users do, and t
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I was told by one of the suppliers on the left that they were definitely stopping production reel seats and were taking orders until sometime in Sept. They then went on to state that thye heard (rumor) that production may be moving off shore. Because their web site is up, means nothing!
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There is a rumor, don't know if it is true or not, that they may be moving production off shore. Heard this from one of their distributors.
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I second the recommendation of the Anglers Roost line. Lots of sizes, colors and price points. All very good quality and good service form Johnny! On a rod of that weight it is only to store the line, as most of us strip the line by hand when fighting a fish on lighter weight fly rods.
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