Has anybody tried Andy's Cork blocks ? If so, how did it turn out ? Thanks,Terry
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Don't know about the dullness but being transparent in spots could mean that you didn't pack the threads tight enough. Are you using light thread over a dark rod blank ?
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Thanks guy. I don't know what happened but something sure did. Terry
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Just sharing may experience and stupidity all in one post. I've used Maderia thread with out any problems except now. Instead of putting two coats of CP on a guide like I usually do I only put one coat. Then I put the epoxy finish on it and it fish-eyed on me. So now when the finish dries I'll take it apart and start over. At least two coats of CP from now on. I posted this just in case somebody
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I'll chime in and say, when you get the color card put your color preserver on all the colors. At least two coats. Then you will some what know what the colors are going to look like. Learned that from Billy V.
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Jim, Thanks. but the decal is already in place. It came out clear so all I have to do is put the finish on tomorrow. The next rod that I do I will have to put some finish down before the decal because it has a matte finish. Terry
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Thanks guys. The rod has a glossy green finish to it. It's not a matte finish.
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I'm about to do my first decal application. I have Micro Sol & Micro Set. I'm putting this silver decal on a dark green rod. I'm not putting this on top of thread just a bare surface.I have done some reading on applying the decal. My question is, do I have to put down some epoxy finish before I apply the decal? How do you guys do it? Thanks, Terry
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David, I would suggest buying a book called " Rod-Building Guide." Read that a couple of times and that will start you off right. This forum has a lot of knowledgable people that are more than willing to share. Terry
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Thanks Billy. You Are The Man.I like the work that you do I just do have the time to do a lot of thread art. Terry
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Thanks Derek for the idea of putting cp on the sample card. I just finished putting 2 coats of Diamondite CP on all of the samples. Billy V. was right cp really does turn the colors darker ( not that I doubted him ). The darker colors turned almost black and a lot the lighter colors turned to a deep rich color. This will really help in picking out colors. Thanks
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Thanks Billy. I have just made a note of that on the sample card.
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I'll be the first to admit that some times my light bulb is a little dim but I finally did something to come up to average intelligence. I started using Maderia thread # 40 a few rods back but its hard to pick out colors on a computer screen. So I invested $5.00 in a Maderia Sample Card. This card has all 365 thread colors that are available. So there is no guess work at what color to use to matc
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Jay, If you're doing it wrong then so am I. I hope there's someone out there to set us straight.
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A good auto parts store or a good farm implement shop should have a wide selection of O-Rings to choose from.
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Mark. Save your money. I second what Hank has wrote.
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You might try Fishsticks4U, sponsor on the left column. They handle CTS rods who make a Cobalt Blue.
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Harold, If you want, you can fit your finish. I've done this countless times. I'm not that good on long wraps either. I take 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper wrap it around a small block of wood or use a sanding block and sand down all the high ridges level with the low spots and put more finish on. Use masking tape on each end of your wrap to protect the rod while your sanding. I use water while sand
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Bert, The size of your chocker guide depends upon the size line you are going to use.
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Tom, I was just trying to see if the 12 would make the jump to the six or the 10. You're right the line path will spell it out. Thanks Terry
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Hi guys, I need some help on a concept rod. I'm trying to get from a #30 guide to a #6 with the use of two more guides. Would a #20 and then a #12 work or a #20 then a #10. I'm open to suggestions. Thanks for the help. Terry
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Shawn, I have two Renzetti lathes. One is for wrapping and the other is to turn cork handles. If I had to do it all over again I'd buy a Renzetti for wrapping and go with a different lathe for turning handels. The Renzetti is a little pricey once you get everything set up but you won't have to buy another one. I finally ended up buying a little bit bigger Jet lathe to do my turning because
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John, right off the bat I would buy a book titled Rod-Building Guide by Tom Kirkman. Some of the sponsors at the left carry the book. Read it several times that will get you off to a good start.
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Ray, Click on my name and get my Email. Maybe we can work this out.
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Ray Go up to the top of this page and click on the LIBRARY then go to the THE NEW GUIDE CONCEPT PRIMER and read that article. That should give you a guide on what to do.
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Ray When you measure your spool diameter measure it in millimeters multiply by 27 then convert it back to inches or stay in millimeters. That will get you to where your choker guide should be.
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Michael, You didn't say how long your rod is and the butt guide is determined by the diameter of your reel in mm divided by half. Better yet go up and click on LIBRARY and read the article on New Guide Concept and take it from there. Hope this helps.
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I use Diamondle CP for feather inlays without thinning it . It's thin enough. Just use it straight from the bottle. Terry
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Fishsticks4U is a CTS dealer. They are on the left ( sponsor board ) . I will warn you, if they don't have it in stock better not be in any hurry for it. I've had one rod ordered since March and another ordered since May. I think. It's been so long I'm not sure anymore. Good Luck !!! Terry
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I've used TM lite quite a bit. Be sure your rod is level or you won't get a smooth level job. You can't put to much on at one time, Put 1 coat on and let it turn on the dryer for about 8 hours then put another coat on and see what it looks like. I put a coat of lite on then I go to the TM high build. This prrocess works great on feather inlays too.
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