James: Threadmaster Lite has a working time of about 1 hr where the regular finishes have a working time of about 30 minutes or less. Also keep in mind that TM Lite takes a lot longer to set up.The rotation time is 4 to 6 hrs and drying tack free is 6 to 8 hrs.
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Glen: DITTO on what Mike and Jay have said. Keep in mind that the CP you use might darken your thread a shade or two. To get close to what your CP is going to make the thread look like, buy a sample card of all the colors and put at least a couple of coats over the threads. That will get you close. The other variable is the color of the rod that you're going to use. Hope this helps. Terry
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David. You have to measure across the face of the spool in millimeters, divide in half and that will tell you the size of the butt guide in millimeters that you start off with. That is the first step then you take that same spool measurement and multiply by 27 and that will give you in millimeters where you measure from the face of your reel up to where you put your intersect guide. Tie a line
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I have used TM & TM lite ever since they have come out and have had really good results. I have never used Diamondite finish. Terry
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On a dark colored rod using light colored thread I've used masking tape and spray painted where all of the guides were supposed to go. What a pain in the butt. The trouble with painting is when I would start wrapping and packing thread I would scratch the paint and have to take a brush and paint the scuff or scratches, then let it dry and go back to wrapping and packing again. If you don't do a t
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Yes, I have both
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Ray, At least the postman could deliver your thread. According to Robert the postman may never come.
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Fishsticks4U is where I bought the LTCMCG 20 thru 08 guides from. The LTCMCG 25 has been on backorder for along time. I'm building a spinning rod for my nephew's graduation that's next Sunday and had no idea that using the NCG system it would take the high frame guides. Took me completely off guard !!!! I have the VS series of guides that I was going to use but they will not work with this appli
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Thanks Ray. I looked on their site and didn't find the number and style that I need.
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I'm in desperate need of a LTCMCG 25 Batson guide. Can anybody help ? Thanks, Terry
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I have a set of Baston Dream Reamers and like them very much.
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Sanford, In the email that I got from Andy today, he said he was going to try for this month.
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Mark, I used Model Master that I got at Hobby Lobby. I got the spray paint. This was my first time to paint before wrapping. It was a little difficult not to scrape it off when trying to pack the threads. I had to use a brush to touch up those spots. Fred, I haven't got a clue what to use it for but in my case since I have narrows the playing field down to just a few items there isn't any
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I just finished a 8'6" CTS rod using Madeira thread and Andy's CP. This rod was a dark gloss green color and I was using a silver color thread so I painted where the thread was going to go before wrapping just to make life a little easier. So I can't tell on the bleed through effect. All I can say is the CP worked great. I put 3 coats on. The thread soaked it all up. After one of the wraps
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Mo, That lady tying line and hooks on to bottles, baiting them and letting them float around is called jugging from where I come from. Have caught a lot of catfish doing just that. Just make sure it's legal in your state.
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I would wait six to eight hours before putting another coat of TM or TM lite on. It's according to your room temp. On TM high build you have a window of 6 hrs min.to 36 hrs max. to put another coat on without haveing to do any prep.
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Aaron, I've just finished putting finish on a CTS 8'6" rod for a friend of mine. This is going to be used to reach out and jig for spawning crappie. Slow action fast tip 2-6# test. He wants to be able to lift crappie into the boat without bending over. I don't know how thats going to work but I'm sure he's going to try.
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Flex Coat has some pumps that screw right on your epoxy bottles. I use Threadmster epoxy so they fit other bottles than just Flex Coat.
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In the email I got from Andy, he was hoping to come out with it the last of this month. Don't know whether that has changed.
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Pete, Don't feel like the LONE RANGER here I'm having the same problem with my CP or some kind of contamination. I know for sure it's not the finish. The CP maybe, or me. I won't tell you the name of the CP that I was using because I don't want to talk down on somebody's product because I could be doing something wrong that I'm not aware of. When I did have to take the guide and thread off to s
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Pete, I agree with Henry. I take it you did not use CP. This has happened to me before and the only thing I could do is take the guide and thread off and start over.
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I don't know, I've asked a lot of stupid questions and done a lot of stupid things in the quest for a perfect rod. I would suggest a book titled Rod-Building Guide for starters. This can be a very additive hobby. Have fun and welcome. Terry
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I've got Andy's DVD. Lots of good info. It will tell you all about building cork handles. You'll need some of his mandrels also.
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Ted, I use Madeira Polynoen #40 thread all the time. You should use CP though, two or three coats or else you might have finish issues. Also some CPs tend to turn the thread a shade or two darker so you might be a ware of that. Get one of their sample cards that has all the colors and put a couple coats of CP on them and you will see what colors turn really dark and the ones that don't.
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I would suggest you do a static test and see what happens. Sometimes you get by with fewer guides and sometimes you may have to add one or two. Let the rod tell you what you need. If you don't know what a static test is, click on Library at the top of this page and go down to Static Guide Placement by Tom K. Your 7 could be another 6 instead. I'm about ready to start on a CTS 7 ft spinning rod.
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Shawn are you using CP ? Your thread could be contaminated. What kind of thread are you using? If you are using Madeira thread you should give it at least a couple of heavy coats of CP. I learned that the hard way.
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Greg, One of the benefits of TML is longer working time. Let it roll around for ten minutes of so just to make sure it gets mixed up good. Look to see if your steel balls are moving the epoxy around in the cup and if not I have added just a tiny bit of heat to loosen things up. I just put on one lite coat the first time and let it set up for 8 hrs before another coat. If you are using ball bearin
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Greg, TML should be tack free in 6-8 hours. What's your room temp.? Should be 50-90 degrees. You might put the rod in a well heated room or put the rod in a window so the sun can get to it for another day or so. That happened to me the first time I used it. I wiped it all off and started over. I made sure of my measurements and mixed it a little longer to make sure it was well mixed and it worked
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I guess he's the first.
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Brenda, Before you sand, I would like to add to what Tom K. wrote. Put some masking tape at each end of your finish to protect your rod from any stray sanding scuffs that might occur. Also I would suggest 400 grit sandpaper. Hope this helps. Been in the same boat before. Terry
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