Here you go guys: Here's my process, short and sweet: 1. Wipe all parts down with alcohol to remove any factory release agents that may be on the reel seat. 2. Sand rod ramp area and edge of reel seat with 400grit paper the entire length where the ramp will be located, wipe clean 3. Mix 5 minute liquid flex-coat rod building epoxy, about 2cc's of each part mixed well 4. Place rod i
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Plain ole 70% household Alcohol and coffee filters. DR
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NO gel. DR
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Spray a couple light coats of Krylon Fixatif over all decals and let dry. This makes decals EASY and painless, perfect finish every time. Go to a much thinner and slower curing finish. Apply finish while rod is in the dryer and turning. No stopping waiting dripping 180 or whatever. Do your long wrap FIRST, or separately from the guides, while your finish is at it's thinnest. DR
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No need to touch the 5min epoxy at all with your fingers. Start the dryer and apply the 5min with the dryer running! Let the dryer smooth out each coat of 5min as you work with it until you get the desired size of ramp. This is the result: DR
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Why would one position be "weaker" than another? Softer maybe? The rod blank alone wants (when flexed) to bend in one position. Once guides are added the whole ball game changes. DR
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Roger, The wear will happen to your LINE, and with expensive braids it's not a good thing! :-) Guide wear may never happen. DR
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Roger, There is a difference in the Minima 3 and the 4. I cant remember which, but one of them carry's a rather semi-sharp edge on one side of the guide that I didn't care for at all. To me it just makes sense to go with the slickest and better material. I have never liked a steel ring, why use steel when you know there are better materials? And, even though spectra lines may? or may not?
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Brandon, you should scuff up the area to be re-coated if your finish has set more than a couple days, yes, you are correct. Big difference in scuffing up ALL of the area and sanding one spot only. Most of the time you'll only see the lack of depth on a very dark background. If you sand it all, it will all look the same when re-coated. DR
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Alconite by FAR DR
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Brandon, The reason why is an easy one: you knocked off the shine with the sandpaper, then re-coated, so now you have lost DEPTH in only one area: the sanded area. DR
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If you sand, dont "spot" sand. It can show on the next coat. Sand the entire area and recoat, or better yet just take a razor blade and shave/trim out your issue then recoat. DR
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I've had better luck encapsulating the pin in epoxy and then trimming to match the EVA cut out and epoxying the pin into the EVA. Kinda like this butt cap: DR
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If it fits tightly you'll be fine, if you're worried, run a length of thread where the grip sits. DR
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Your finish could be setting too fast and not allowing the bubbles to release? Try a slower finish. I work beside an AC vent all the time. DR
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Thanks Steve!! Patrick, here is an epoxy ramp: Spinning Casting DR
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Don, I posted a quick step by step tutorial I wrote on them a few times, search my name with epoxy ramps. Should be about all you need. DR
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Bill, Really depends on the finish. Some heat and re-melt well and you can do it several times with no issues. Other brands you cant ever get to completely re-melt and one brand once heated several times wont ever set up, it just stays sticky forever. Test your finish! DR
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Chad, I'd look at the: IMB845 Matte Clear 7'0" 1 14-25lb. 3/8 - 2oz. 0.620 6.5 Fast Mag-Heavy 3.08 oz. jig & pig / pitching plastics in and around heavy cover I've built several of these for Striped Bass fishermen and it's very capable. DR
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VOLUME is the key. The more in the cup, the faster it heats up and sets up. If you mix in very small batches you can apply straight from mixing cup. Pour it out onto foil. This gives you longer "working times" and better leveling due to the slower set you'll get. DR
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Mix it well and pour out onto aluminum foil, don't wait any to apply either. Never mix a cup full and leave it in the cup or plan on applying from the cup. It will get hot and set on ya very fast. The more finish that's in the cup (volume wise) the faster it reacts, heats and sets on you. DR
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Not only would I wait, but I'd add another coat and wait another overnight! Then pray. LOL DR
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Should be pretty darn round.....I'd stress test it!!! I've seen blanks in mass shipping become crushed. DR
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Same as with an arbor. Apply adhesive well above area and down to area where seat will sit. Slide seat into place, clean up access adhesive. DR
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To add to Rich's ....you can drill a hole in the top of the epoxy and hardener caps to fit the newly purchased syringe tips perfectly, leaving the syringes in the caps of the epoxy and hardener all the time-perfect mixing always! DR
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Hypalon is WAY heavier than EVA. But I love the "gripp e ness" of hypalon, just hate the weight. DR
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No you do not need it. DR
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Billy, I have done the syringe and 30min thing before, it works just fine to fill the void but I was never happy with it, just never felt "right" in your hand to me, maybe it was just me knowing about it?...... I claimed the rod and started another :-) DR
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Jack, It's a whole new hobby in itself! Enjoy!!! DR
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Do the eyeball and rock and roll. DR
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